Since we had a free weekend, we decided to head up to the Santa Barbara wine country to visit a few wineries we hadn't been to before. As it worked out, the general theme of the trip was keystone winemakers. Ken Brown is the owner and winemaker Ken Brown Wines. Rick Longoria is the owner and winemaker at Longoria. Sashi Moorman is a partner/creator/winemaker at Piedrasassi, one of the winemakers at Evening Land, and the winemaker at Stolpman. We planned to spend most of our trip at the Wine Ghetto - which now my favorite wine destination. It was an especially cool time of the year to visit, the Ghetto was a hive of activity. Wineries were receiving their grapes from the fields and were in the beginning stages of creating wine.
Saturday (Buellton, Highway 246, Lompoc)
Road Music: Florence and The Machine - Lungs
Ken Brown Wines ($10 private tasting, wines $35-$50)
'08 Nielson Vineyard Chardonnay, '08 Santa Maria Valley Pinot Noir, '08 Sta. Rita Hills Pinot Noir, '09 Clos Pepe Vineyard Pinot Noir, '08 "A" Cuvee Syrah.
Ken Brown has had an immense influence on the growth of the wine industry in Santa Barbara County. He began making wine in the area 35 years ago and was the head winemaker at Zaca Mesa and Byron before creating his own wine label. Tastings are by appointment only. We had an excellent time. Ken makes tremendous wine and is a wealth of knowledge. He shared wine growing techniques with us like we were old friends, and it was interesting to hear about the growth of the wine industry in the region during his career. Anyone who is at all interested in the essence of wine and seeing the passion that goes into making great quality wine should visit Ken Brown.
Experience: A+ / Wine: A
Piedrasassi / New Vineland Winery ($10 tasting, wines $26-$56)
New Vineland '09 Santa Barbara County Chardonnay, Piedrasassi '08 Central Coast White Wine, New Vineland '08 Santa Barbara County Syrah, Piedrasassi '08 Central Coast Syrah, Piedrasassi '08 Rim Rock Vineyard Syrah, Piedrasassi '06 Santa Ynez Valley Sangiovese Dessert Wine.
Piedrasassi is a super hip and funky place. Everything about their tasting room exudes style. The winery is pretty new and they have a very small distribution. Each wine was exciting to drink and were of high quality. The tasting was accompanied by their Syrah jelly on cheese and red wine vinegar and olive oil on heirloom tomatoes. We felt cooler and smarter for having visited.
Experience: B+ / Wine: B+
Evening Land Vineyards ($10 tasting, wines $25-$60)
'10 Chardonnay, '10 Etoile Pouilly-Fuisse Chardonnay - Burgundy, '09 Oregon Pinot Noir - Eola-Amity Hills, '09 Sonoma Pinot Noir - Occidental Vineyard, '09 Sta. Rita Hills Pinot Noir, '09 Sta. Rita Hills - The Tempest Vineyard.
Evening Land is moving their tasting room into a different space in the Wine Ghetto soon, so their current tasting room is no frills. The goal of Evening Land is exhibit how a specific place has an effect on wines. Evening Land makes wines from four distinct places: Burgundy France, Oregon, Sonoma, and Santa Barbara County. These distinctions are made through Chardonnay and Pinot Noir wines. All of the wines had good flavors, but were slightly short on length and complexity. We had a very nice conversation with the staff person there - she was very helpful.
Experience: B / Wine: B
Stolpman Vineyards - Lompoc Tasting Room ($10 tasting, wines $19-$68)
'10 Sauvignon Blanc, '09 'L'Avion' Roussanne, '10 'La Cuadrilla' (Syrah/Grenache/Petit Sirah/Viognier), '08 Estate Sangiovese, '09 "Originals" Syrah, '09 'Hilltops' Syrah, '09 'La Coppa' Sangiovese, '09 La Croce (Syrah/Sangiovese), '08 'Angeli' Sangiovese.
On the day of our trip, we learned that Stolpman had just opened their new tasting room in the Wine Ghetto. We'd visited Stolpman's Los Olivos tasting room back in April and were huge fans of their wines. The current setup of this tasting room overlooks the warehouse floor - and given that harvest is just completing we were able to watch the Stolpman team make new wine while we tasting their current wines. The tasting list had a number of Sangiovese's. The entry-level priced Sangio was very good, and the "La Croce" and "Angeli" were fantastic. Alicia was a great host.
Experience: B+ / Wine: A-
Sunday (Lompoc)
Road Music: Black Joe Lewis & The Honeybears - Scandalous
Longoria Winery - Lompoc Tasting Room ($10 tasting, wines $22-$48)
'10 Albariño - Clover Creek Vineyard, '08 Pinot Noir - Fe Ciega Vineyard, '09 Pinot Noir - Rancho Santa Vineyard, '09 Pinot Noir - Bien Nacido Vineyard, '04 Syrah - Alisos Vineyard.
Longoria also has two tasting rooms - one in Los Olivos and one in Lompoc. The Lompoc tasting room is attached to their winemaking facility. Christopher was kind enough to tour us around the warehouse and pointed out the different processes that were going on. We had a great time chatting with Christopher about a variety of topics and we enjoyed the wines that were on the tasting list. The three Pinots had unique differences - we enjoyed the Fe Ciega and Bien Nacido quite a bit. The Syrah was awesome as well.
Experience: A- / Wines: B+
After visiting a few other wine regions recently it was really nice to come back to SBC. There is such a true passion there that it's impossible to not get excited about wine. This was especially true when we visited with Ken Brown. He is one of the most influential people to the wine industry in the region - and he's willing to spend an hour just chatting with us and share with us his great knowledge. There's no ulterior motive there - he's a dude who's committed his life to wine and will share his love of wine purely. Experiences like that are truly unique, and I'm glad we were a part of it.
September '11 El Dorado County Trip - Exploring the In-Laws Backyard
A few times each year we head up to El Dorado County to spend time with my wife's family. During our recent visit over Labor Day weekend, we decided to check out a few of the local wineries. Gold Country is considered a minor wine region, so I wasn't expecting Sonoma/Napa quality - but I was curious what the wine tasting experience would be like.
Saturday (Gold Hill)
David Girard Vineyard (free tasting)
'09 Coda Blanc (Roussanne, Marsanne, Grenache Blanc, Rolle, Viognier), '09 Rousanne, '09 Viognier-Roussanne, '08 Rosé (Grenache/Mourvedre), '09 Grenache, '09 Triptych (Syrah, Grenache, Counoise), '08 Riv d'Or (Cab/Merlot).
There is a very welcoming atmosphere at David Girard. There's a nice outside patio for the guests, a playground for kids, even a dog walk. It being Labor Day weekend, the tasting room was very busy - and the staff was a bit flustered by that, even with that they were very nice. I was not stoked at all about the wine. Everything felt out of balance. Wine was either oaky, artificial, too fruity, or flat.
Experience: B- / Wines: D
Sunday (Pleasant Valley)
Narrow Gate Vineyards ($3 reserve tasting, wines $18-$34)
'09 Chardonnay, '09 Reserve Chardonnay, '09 Viognier-Roussanne, '08 Grenache, '08 Syrah, '09 Primotivo, '08 Petit Sirah-Syrah, '08 Syrah-Viognier, '07 Dunamis (Grenache/Syrah), '07 Cabernet Sauvignon.
After our visit at David Girard, I was getting a bit worried that El Dorado County wine was not good. Narrow Gate put that fear to rest. I wouldn't say that their wine was excellent, but it was pretty good - especially the whites and the 'Dunamis.' The owners - Frank and Teena Hildebrand were working in the tasting room, and were more than excited to share their certified-biodynamic wines. It was a warm and friendly place. Every person that came was welcomed as if they were family.
Experience: B+ / Wines: B-
Holly's Hill Vineyards ($5 reserve tasting, wines $18-$25)
'09 Patriarche Blanc (Roussanne/Grenache Blanc/Viognier), '09 Roussanne, '10 Viognier, '10 Grenache Rosé, '10 Grenache, '09 Patriarche (Mourvedre/Syrah/Grenache/Counoise), '09 Petit Patriache (Grenache/Counoise), '09 Mourvedre, '09 Mourvedre Classique, '07 Hill Top Syrah, '08 Wylie-Fenaughty Syrah, '08 East Slope Syrah, '08 Cabernet-Syrah, '08 Petite Sirah, '09 Late Harvest Roussanne.
Yeah that's right, fifteen wines on the tasting list - eleven on the 'no charge' list. It was a crazy amount of wine - and the pours seemed to be considerably more than and normal tasting. But I'm pretty sure that my judgement wasn't clouded - Holly's Hill is a darn good winery. It's a beautiful space overlooking the foothills with picnic tables and a nice deck. They had perhaps the friendliest winery dog I've ever met. The wines were all at least pretty good and some were very good. Most had slight imbalance issues, but were overall enjoyable to drink, and were all reasonably priced. Holly's Hill is what I was hoping for in an El Dorado County winery: solid, unassuming, fun, and original.
Experience: A- / Wines: B+
Joining us for our winery visits was my father-in-law. He's aware of our wine infatuation but has been resolute that he's strictly a beer and whiskey man. We persuaded him to come out with us to the tastings, just to give it a shot. I was nervous that if the wineries were snobby, or if the wines were bad, he would have been unwilling to join us for future wine trips. Thankfully we found some solid and down-to-earth wineries in El Dorado County, and will likely have my father-in-law joining us in the future.
Saturday (Gold Hill)
David Girard Vineyard (free tasting)
'09 Coda Blanc (Roussanne, Marsanne, Grenache Blanc, Rolle, Viognier), '09 Rousanne, '09 Viognier-Roussanne, '08 Rosé (Grenache/Mourvedre), '09 Grenache, '09 Triptych (Syrah, Grenache, Counoise), '08 Riv d'Or (Cab/Merlot).
There is a very welcoming atmosphere at David Girard. There's a nice outside patio for the guests, a playground for kids, even a dog walk. It being Labor Day weekend, the tasting room was very busy - and the staff was a bit flustered by that, even with that they were very nice. I was not stoked at all about the wine. Everything felt out of balance. Wine was either oaky, artificial, too fruity, or flat.
Experience: B- / Wines: D
Sunday (Pleasant Valley)
Narrow Gate Vineyards ($3 reserve tasting, wines $18-$34)
'09 Chardonnay, '09 Reserve Chardonnay, '09 Viognier-Roussanne, '08 Grenache, '08 Syrah, '09 Primotivo, '08 Petit Sirah-Syrah, '08 Syrah-Viognier, '07 Dunamis (Grenache/Syrah), '07 Cabernet Sauvignon.
After our visit at David Girard, I was getting a bit worried that El Dorado County wine was not good. Narrow Gate put that fear to rest. I wouldn't say that their wine was excellent, but it was pretty good - especially the whites and the 'Dunamis.' The owners - Frank and Teena Hildebrand were working in the tasting room, and were more than excited to share their certified-biodynamic wines. It was a warm and friendly place. Every person that came was welcomed as if they were family.
Experience: B+ / Wines: B-
Holly's Hill Vineyards ($5 reserve tasting, wines $18-$25)
'09 Patriarche Blanc (Roussanne/Grenache Blanc/Viognier), '09 Roussanne, '10 Viognier, '10 Grenache Rosé, '10 Grenache, '09 Patriarche (Mourvedre/Syrah/Grenache/Counoise), '09 Petit Patriache (Grenache/Counoise), '09 Mourvedre, '09 Mourvedre Classique, '07 Hill Top Syrah, '08 Wylie-Fenaughty Syrah, '08 East Slope Syrah, '08 Cabernet-Syrah, '08 Petite Sirah, '09 Late Harvest Roussanne.
Yeah that's right, fifteen wines on the tasting list - eleven on the 'no charge' list. It was a crazy amount of wine - and the pours seemed to be considerably more than and normal tasting. But I'm pretty sure that my judgement wasn't clouded - Holly's Hill is a darn good winery. It's a beautiful space overlooking the foothills with picnic tables and a nice deck. They had perhaps the friendliest winery dog I've ever met. The wines were all at least pretty good and some were very good. Most had slight imbalance issues, but were overall enjoyable to drink, and were all reasonably priced. Holly's Hill is what I was hoping for in an El Dorado County winery: solid, unassuming, fun, and original.
Experience: A- / Wines: B+
Joining us for our winery visits was my father-in-law. He's aware of our wine infatuation but has been resolute that he's strictly a beer and whiskey man. We persuaded him to come out with us to the tastings, just to give it a shot. I was nervous that if the wineries were snobby, or if the wines were bad, he would have been unwilling to join us for future wine trips. Thankfully we found some solid and down-to-earth wineries in El Dorado County, and will likely have my father-in-law joining us in the future.
August '11 Napa Trip - Tours, Disappointment, and Kick-Assery
After spending two days enjoying the hell out of Sonoma, we jumped over to Napa. I knew that Napa was likely to be more expensive, more snotty, and probably less fun. But it is the mecca of domestic wine, so I had to go. We based our list off of accumulated recommendations from friends.
Monday (Rutherford)
Road Music: Notorious B.I.G. - Ready to Die
Frog's Leap ($20 tour, wines $18-$75)
'10 Sauvignon Blanc, '09 Chardonnay, '08 Merlot, '07 'Rutherford' Cabernet Sauvignon, '08 Petite Sirah, '08 Zinfandel.
Visiting Frog's Leap is like visiting a friend's large vacation rental. It is a welcoming and peaceful environment. The tour started in the vineyard, stopped off in the orchard, the crush pad, the barrel warehouse, and ended in the processing barn. Sean was a tremendous guide and host. At each stop we were poured a different glass of wine. All of the wine was very good. The Rutherford Cab was incredible. After the tour was over we were encouraged to relax anywhere on the grounds or even continue to explore. Frog's Leap is known for being non-traditional and quirky, as well they are extremely friendly and open - which in my limited experience in Napa strays from the norm. An additional plus - Frog's Leap works hard at utilizing environmental sustainable techniques such as dry-irrigation.
Experience: A+ / Wines: A-
Cakebread Cellars ($15 tour, wines $24-$61)
'10 Sauvignon Blanc, '08 Chardonnay, '08 Chardonnay Reserve, '09 Zinfandel, '06 Cabernet Sauvignon, '08 Syrah.
Several of my friends are big fans of Cakebread wines, so I made sure to put it on the must visit list. We were confused about what we had signed up for when we arrived. The woman at the main desk checked our reservation, then poured us our first glass of wine. She then simply directed us to sit outside on benches in the parking lot, among the cars and heavy equipment. For about ten minutes I thought this was going to be where we were going to have our tasting. Eventually our tour guide gathered us up, and began our tour. The tour started in the gardens, made a few stops in the vineyard, and then back into the garden. Our tour guide was nice enough, but seemed to be speaking from a well-rehearsed monologue, and the content of the tour was pretty superficial. The wines were pretty darn good, but the overall experience at the winery left a lot to be desired.
Experience: C- / Wines: B+
Rutherford Hill Winery ($25 tour)
'06 Merlot, '07 Cabernet Franc, '06 Cabernet Sauvignon, '07 Malbec, Luke Donald '06 Claret, '06 'Devil's Peak', '04 Zinfandel Port.
Going on a third tour in one day was a bad choice. Not only was taking another tour on a hot day a bad choice, the tour itself was bad. The tour guide was a crotchety guy who would only take questions at very specific instances. He seemed to be speaking from a script and was passionless about the delivery of that script. The tour started outside at the hilly overlook, headed into the large caves where the barrels are stored (which was our main interest in the tour), and then into the production area. The caves are a pretty awesome thing to see, but the guide managed to make them underwhelming with his soulless tour. The wines that we tried were all okay, but nothing at all impressive. Rutherford Hill does have a nice view of Napa Valley from the eastern slope, so if you decide to go there, make sure to bring a picnic.
Experience: D / Wines: C+
Tuesday (Calistoga, St. Helena, Rutherford)
Road Music: Massive Balloon - Massive Balloon
Clos Pegase ($20 tasting?, wines $28.50-$48)
'07 'Hommage' Chardonnay, '08 Pinot Noir, '07 Cabernet Franc, '07 Syrah, '07 Cabernet Sauvignon.
We went to Clos Pegase due to their reputation for having awesome art and architecture. We had also heard good things about their wine. On both fronts we were pleased. We arrived slightly before the winery opened, so we checked out the outdoor sculptures while we waited. The buildings seem slightly run down - paint was chipping, and the place felt a bit dour - though since we were the first there it was quite empty, which could have added to the starkness. Maybe once more people arrive that feeling may change. We were attended to by Harry, who was extremely intelligent and happy to share information. I dug the wines. The Chardonnay was excellent, and the Cab Franc and the Cab Sauv were really enjoyable.
Experience: B+ / Wines: B+
Long Meadow Ranch Winery ($20 Signature Flight tasting, wines $19-$85)
'10 Sauvignon Blanc, '04 Cabernet Sauvignon, '06 Cabernet Sauvignon, '06 E.J. Church Cabernet Sauvignon, '08 Ranch House Red.
A good friend directed us to Long Meadow Ranch. The tasting room has a stylish modern western vibe to it. They also raise beef and produce, so there is a focus on the intersection of food and wine. It was quiet in the tasting room, and the staff were nice though distant. It was a bit of a sterile place - there was nothing special about the experience. The Cabs and the Ranch House Red were very tasty.
Experience: B- / Wines: B+
St. Supéry Vineyards & Winery ($15 tasting)
'09 Dollarhide Sauvignon Blanc, '06 Estate Edu (Cab Blend), '06 Estate Rutherford Cabernet Sauvignon, '06 Estate Dollarhide Cabernet Sauvignon, '06 Merlot, '06 Petit Verdot, '06 Malbec.
This is a behemoth of a complex. The space has a very corporate feel. Inside is not much different. The tasting room is quite large, though since it was an off-day, there were only a few other visitors there. Quickly the corporate feeling eroded, as our pourer - Joe - began to chat with us. He was a fun guy, and had lots to talk with us about. He definitely put me at ease. Toward the end of our tasting Joe encouraged us to go upstairs to check out the art and exhibits. The wine-themed exhibits were not that great, but there was an awesome Wayne Thiebaud exhibit up there. We enjoyed the wine quite a bit. Each one had refined characteristics but expressed individuality.
Experience: B+ / Wines: B+
Heading into Napa I was warned that the region was largely snotty and corporate. In general that seemed to be true. Napa is one of the most important wine growing regions in the world - so of course big money is going to being prevalent. But in instances the wine tasting experience is well delivered so the corporatism doesn't mar the experience. Frog's Leap seems to completely side-step (or hop) the issue by having a different model. Clos Pegase and St. Supéry are very corporate, but they hire smart tasting room folks and serve great wine, so it works out. My experiences at Cakebread and Rutherford Hill were negatively affected by the corporate atmosphere though. The number of wineries in Napa is huge, so I'm sure that there are lots more hyper-corporate places, corporate-but-good paces, and completely original places for me to visit in the future.
Monday (Rutherford)
Road Music: Notorious B.I.G. - Ready to Die
Frog's Leap ($20 tour, wines $18-$75)
'10 Sauvignon Blanc, '09 Chardonnay, '08 Merlot, '07 'Rutherford' Cabernet Sauvignon, '08 Petite Sirah, '08 Zinfandel.
Visiting Frog's Leap is like visiting a friend's large vacation rental. It is a welcoming and peaceful environment. The tour started in the vineyard, stopped off in the orchard, the crush pad, the barrel warehouse, and ended in the processing barn. Sean was a tremendous guide and host. At each stop we were poured a different glass of wine. All of the wine was very good. The Rutherford Cab was incredible. After the tour was over we were encouraged to relax anywhere on the grounds or even continue to explore. Frog's Leap is known for being non-traditional and quirky, as well they are extremely friendly and open - which in my limited experience in Napa strays from the norm. An additional plus - Frog's Leap works hard at utilizing environmental sustainable techniques such as dry-irrigation.
Experience: A+ / Wines: A-
Cakebread Cellars ($15 tour, wines $24-$61)
'10 Sauvignon Blanc, '08 Chardonnay, '08 Chardonnay Reserve, '09 Zinfandel, '06 Cabernet Sauvignon, '08 Syrah.
Several of my friends are big fans of Cakebread wines, so I made sure to put it on the must visit list. We were confused about what we had signed up for when we arrived. The woman at the main desk checked our reservation, then poured us our first glass of wine. She then simply directed us to sit outside on benches in the parking lot, among the cars and heavy equipment. For about ten minutes I thought this was going to be where we were going to have our tasting. Eventually our tour guide gathered us up, and began our tour. The tour started in the gardens, made a few stops in the vineyard, and then back into the garden. Our tour guide was nice enough, but seemed to be speaking from a well-rehearsed monologue, and the content of the tour was pretty superficial. The wines were pretty darn good, but the overall experience at the winery left a lot to be desired.
Experience: C- / Wines: B+
Rutherford Hill Winery ($25 tour)
'06 Merlot, '07 Cabernet Franc, '06 Cabernet Sauvignon, '07 Malbec, Luke Donald '06 Claret, '06 'Devil's Peak', '04 Zinfandel Port.
Going on a third tour in one day was a bad choice. Not only was taking another tour on a hot day a bad choice, the tour itself was bad. The tour guide was a crotchety guy who would only take questions at very specific instances. He seemed to be speaking from a script and was passionless about the delivery of that script. The tour started outside at the hilly overlook, headed into the large caves where the barrels are stored (which was our main interest in the tour), and then into the production area. The caves are a pretty awesome thing to see, but the guide managed to make them underwhelming with his soulless tour. The wines that we tried were all okay, but nothing at all impressive. Rutherford Hill does have a nice view of Napa Valley from the eastern slope, so if you decide to go there, make sure to bring a picnic.
Experience: D / Wines: C+
Tuesday (Calistoga, St. Helena, Rutherford)
Road Music: Massive Balloon - Massive Balloon
Clos Pegase ($20 tasting?, wines $28.50-$48)
'07 'Hommage' Chardonnay, '08 Pinot Noir, '07 Cabernet Franc, '07 Syrah, '07 Cabernet Sauvignon.
We went to Clos Pegase due to their reputation for having awesome art and architecture. We had also heard good things about their wine. On both fronts we were pleased. We arrived slightly before the winery opened, so we checked out the outdoor sculptures while we waited. The buildings seem slightly run down - paint was chipping, and the place felt a bit dour - though since we were the first there it was quite empty, which could have added to the starkness. Maybe once more people arrive that feeling may change. We were attended to by Harry, who was extremely intelligent and happy to share information. I dug the wines. The Chardonnay was excellent, and the Cab Franc and the Cab Sauv were really enjoyable.
Experience: B+ / Wines: B+
Long Meadow Ranch Winery ($20 Signature Flight tasting, wines $19-$85)
'10 Sauvignon Blanc, '04 Cabernet Sauvignon, '06 Cabernet Sauvignon, '06 E.J. Church Cabernet Sauvignon, '08 Ranch House Red.
A good friend directed us to Long Meadow Ranch. The tasting room has a stylish modern western vibe to it. They also raise beef and produce, so there is a focus on the intersection of food and wine. It was quiet in the tasting room, and the staff were nice though distant. It was a bit of a sterile place - there was nothing special about the experience. The Cabs and the Ranch House Red were very tasty.
Experience: B- / Wines: B+
St. Supéry Vineyards & Winery ($15 tasting)
'09 Dollarhide Sauvignon Blanc, '06 Estate Edu (Cab Blend), '06 Estate Rutherford Cabernet Sauvignon, '06 Estate Dollarhide Cabernet Sauvignon, '06 Merlot, '06 Petit Verdot, '06 Malbec.
This is a behemoth of a complex. The space has a very corporate feel. Inside is not much different. The tasting room is quite large, though since it was an off-day, there were only a few other visitors there. Quickly the corporate feeling eroded, as our pourer - Joe - began to chat with us. He was a fun guy, and had lots to talk with us about. He definitely put me at ease. Toward the end of our tasting Joe encouraged us to go upstairs to check out the art and exhibits. The wine-themed exhibits were not that great, but there was an awesome Wayne Thiebaud exhibit up there. We enjoyed the wine quite a bit. Each one had refined characteristics but expressed individuality.
Experience: B+ / Wines: B+
Heading into Napa I was warned that the region was largely snotty and corporate. In general that seemed to be true. Napa is one of the most important wine growing regions in the world - so of course big money is going to being prevalent. But in instances the wine tasting experience is well delivered so the corporatism doesn't mar the experience. Frog's Leap seems to completely side-step (or hop) the issue by having a different model. Clos Pegase and St. Supéry are very corporate, but they hire smart tasting room folks and serve great wine, so it works out. My experiences at Cakebread and Rutherford Hill were negatively affected by the corporate atmosphere though. The number of wineries in Napa is huge, so I'm sure that there are lots more hyper-corporate places, corporate-but-good paces, and completely original places for me to visit in the future.
August '11 Sonoma Trip - Full Blown Awesomeness
When a good friend moved back to California, we decided to head up to Sonoma and Napa to celebrate. We built a strong list of wineries to visit and met up with old friends during the trip. We visited Sonoma for two days, and Napa for another two. I split the trip into two blogs. One for Sonoma and one for Napa. It was an awesome trip. We had an amazing time and drank superb wine.
Friday (Central Valley)
Road Music: Sparklehorse - Good Morning Spider
CRU Wine Company ($10 tasting, wines $20-$35)
Carmichael '10 'Blanco Fresco' Albariño, '09 'Vineyard Montage' Chardonnay, '09 Chardonnay - Sierra Madre Vineyard, '08 'Vineyard Montage' Pinot Noir, '08 'Appellation Series' Pinot Noir - Sierra Madre Vineyard, Carmichael '08 "Rojo del Rey' Tempranillo, Carmichael '07 'Satisfaction' Cabernet Sauvignon.
In the Central Valley on Highway 99, we saw a billboard for CRU. Considering we were on our way up to Sonoma for a wine trip, we thought it would be appropriate to give this place a try. Nothing gained, nothing lost. CRU's Madera location is a mid-way point for their two wine growing areas - to the west the Central Coast, which is where their CRU labeled wines come from - and to the east the Sierra Foothills for their lower priced Yosemite Views wines. The people were nice in the tasting room. We were given a long and varied tasting, but the wine was inoffensive at best. The Albariño had the best flavor. I've had ton wines that taste better for a fraction of their prices. We "checked in" on Yelp so that we didn't have to pay the tasting fee - if you can do the same, why not stop here if you have free time and are are curious? Otherwise, keep driving.
Experience: C / Wine: D
Saturday (Dry Creek)
B.R. Cohn Winery ($10 tasting?, wines $24-$100)
'09 Chardonnay - Sonoma County, '09 Reserve Chardonnay, '09 Pinot Noir - Russian River Valley, '08 Zinfandel - Sonoma Valley, '08 Zinfandel - Olive Hill Estate, '07 Cabernet Sauvignon - Olive Hill Estate, '07 Special Selection Cabernet Sauvignon - Olive Hill Estate.
Fun fact: the owner of B.R. Cohn - Bruce Cohn is the manager of the Doobie Brothers. We were given a choice of four tastings from a long list. I wasn't wild about the wine that I tried. Most of the wine came off a bit simple, good flavors but not balanced. The exceptions were the Pinot and the Cab. The grounds and building were attractive with a cool funky vibe.
Experience: B- / Wines: C+
Imagery Estate Winery (Member's tasting, $29-$42)
'09 White Burgundy, '09 Sangiovese, '08 Petit Sirah, '08 Langrien, '08 Cabernet Franc - Dry Creek, '10 Cabernet Franc (barrel tasting), '07 Barbera.
Imagery is a unique place to visit. Great art, nice architecture, extremely friendly staff - especially Pat in the member's room. Imagery's wines fell somewhere between good to pretty good for me. The White Burgundy was my favorite.
Experience: A- / Wines: B-
Benzinger Family Winery (Member's reserve tasting, wines $24-$80)
'10 'Signaterra' Sauvignon Blanc - Shone Farm, '09 'Signaterra' Chardonnay - Carneros, '09 'De Coelo' Pinot Noir - Terra Neuma, '06 'Oonapais' Bordeaux - Sonoma Mountain, '07 'Three Blocks' Bordeaux Blend - Sonoma Valley, '07 'Obsidian Point' Estate Blend - Sonoma Mountain, '07 'Tribute' Bordeaux Blend - Sonoma Mountain, '08 Tribute' Bordeaux Blend, '10 Muscat Canelli - Lake County.
A hilly, meandering complex with lush garden trails and tram tours dashing about. The tasting room was packed, and there was a chaotic atmosphere. Thankfully our friends were members so we had access to a member's counter. Our attendant - Alyssa - was fun and knowledgeable. Five of the wines that we tasted were excellent - Sauv, Pinot, Obsidian Point, and both Tributes. Also much respect to Benzinger for having wines that are organic/biodynamic.
Experience: B / Wines: A-
Ledson Winery & Vineyards (Member's private tasting, wines $26-$86)
'09 Russian River Sauvignon Blanc, '08 Carneros Chardonnay, '09 Russian River Pinot Noir, '07 Mes Trois Amours (Syrah/Grenache/Mourvedre), '07 Sonoma Valley 'Ancient Vine' Zinfandel, '07 Sonoma Valley Estate Merlot, '07 Sonoma County Cepage (Cab/Cab Franc/Petit Verdot/Merlot), '07 Sonoma Valley Syrah, '08 Knights Valley Sangiovese, '07 Knights Valley Bellisimo (Cab/Merlot), '06 Knights Valley Cabernet Sauvignon, '06 Knights Valley Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve.
Our Ledson experience was sheer opulence. The grounds of the winery are incredible. The castle is hulking and ornate at the same time. Our friends coordinated a private balcony tasting that overlooked the garden. The staff person that took care of us - Guy - was awesome. Well versed in the wine, down to earth and hilarious. All of the wines had solid and classy characteristics. The Bellisimo and the Cab Reserve were fantastic.
Experience: A- / Wines: A-
Sunday (Russian River Valley)
Road Music: Spoon - Gimme Fiction
Ridge Vineyard - Lytton Springs ($10 tasting, wines $32-$40)
'09 Jimsomare Chardonnay, '07 Lytton Springs 'Z-List', '08 Geyserville 'Z-List', '08 Estate Cabernet Sauvignon.
You certainly cannot hate tasting wine on a patio overlooking an expansive vineyard on a calm Sunday morning. Ridge has a great setup. Comfy couches and chairs that allows you to relax, enjoy good company and to take in the day. Ridge is one of the original Zin makers in Sonoma - so I had high hopes. All of the wines fell slightly below my expectations. The Lytton Springs Zin was very meek, the Geyserville was a bit more peppy. One our way out we struck up a conversation with a staff person - Alice - who was really nice and helpful.
Experience: B / Wines: B-
Unti Vineyards (no tasting fee, wines $16-$35)
'10 Rosé - Sonoma County, '10 Cuvee Blanc - Estate, '08 Grenache -Estate, '08 Zinfandel - Estate, '07 Syrah - Estate, '07 Syrah Benchland - Estate, '08 Montepulciano - Estate, '09 'Green House' Zinfandel.
We had absolutely no intention of visiting Unti. As we drove by, my friend pulled into the parking lot, thinking that Unti was another winery that she really wanted to check out. Even though she realized she was mistaken we decided to go in anyway. We did not call ahead for an appointment, but they agreed to see us just the same. Thank god for serendipity. All of the wines were superb. Great, complex flavors that were very approachable and extremely well-priced. Kristen was an awesome staff person - very clear and friendly. The space was awesomely low key. Unti was our favorite of the whole trip.
Experience: A / Wines: A
Truett Hurst (complementary tasting, wines $20-$33)
'10 Swallowtail Chardonnay, '09 Rattler Rock Zinfandel, '09 Red Rooster Zinfandel, '08 Burning Man Petite Sirah, '09 Red Field Blend (Syrah/Zin/Primotivo), NV Dessert Wine.
Truett Hurst is a very customer friendly place. The whole vibe is welcoming and mellow. We were given some barbeque, there was live music, a beautiful garden, and without a doubt the best picnic spot at a winery that I've ever seen. Adirondack chairs facing a slow moving creek, canopied by oaks. An awesome spot to enjoy the afternoon. Amy was our pourer - she was extremely friendly and fun. The wines weren't all that great. Booming, big flavor but not enough complexity and lots of heat.
Experience: A- / Wine: C+
Papapietro Perry Winery ($10 tasting, wines $28-$54)
'08 Pinot Noir - Sonoma Coast, '08 Pinot Noir - Charles Vineyard/Anderson Valley, '08 Pinot Noir - Peters Vineyard/Russian River Valley, '08 Pinot Noir - Leras Family Vineyards/Russian River Valley, '08 Pinot Noir - Elsbree Vineyard/Russian River Valley, '08 Zinfandel - Elsbree Vineyard/Russian River Valley.
We did not feel a connection with this place. The wine was okay, but were priced too high. None of the wine was very well structured. There were good flavors, but often they all felt clumped together. The staff person that waited on us was not knowledgeable. Another negative to this place was the super-schlocky t-shirts that they were selling.
Experience: C- / Wines: C
Michel-Schlumberger Wines ($10 tasting, wines $24-$50)
'10 La Bise Pinot Blanc, '07 Le Sage Merlot, '07 'Humanitas' Malbec, '91 Cabernet Sauvignon, '08 La Source Syrah, '07 'Humanitas' Pinot Noir, '08 Cabernet Franc.
I had read really good things about Michel-Schlumberger from the website Wine for Normal People. A serene setting removed from the main drag - perfect for an afternoon visit. We sat on a mission-style patio next to a fountain. Debbie was an excellent host. The wine was very good. The Syrah and the Pinot Noir were my favorites.
Experience: A- / Wines: B+
J Vineyards ($20 tasting, wines $20-$60)
'10 Pinot Gris, '09 'Barrel 16' Chardonnay, '08 'Barrel 16' Pinot Noir, '09 Pinot Noir - Robert Thomas Vineyard Block 2, NV Brut Rosé, '02 Vintage Brut.
We've had J before and really enjoyed it - and they have a good reputation. Maybe we came at a bad time or on an off-day, but our experience was really disappointing. None of the wines stood out compared to others that we'd had that day. Even the upper-echelon wines had negative qualities. Finally, the staff there were unfriendly. They did not seem to enjoy their jobs at all. Hopefully that was all an aberration.
Experience: D+ / Wines: C+
Sonoma is such a vibrant yet mellow place. So much great wine and food. It's a wonderful place to explore - especially with friends. I'm not sure that its a trip that we could ever replicate - but I'm going to try.
Friday (Central Valley)
Road Music: Sparklehorse - Good Morning Spider
CRU Wine Company ($10 tasting, wines $20-$35)
Carmichael '10 'Blanco Fresco' Albariño, '09 'Vineyard Montage' Chardonnay, '09 Chardonnay - Sierra Madre Vineyard, '08 'Vineyard Montage' Pinot Noir, '08 'Appellation Series' Pinot Noir - Sierra Madre Vineyard, Carmichael '08 "Rojo del Rey' Tempranillo, Carmichael '07 'Satisfaction' Cabernet Sauvignon.
In the Central Valley on Highway 99, we saw a billboard for CRU. Considering we were on our way up to Sonoma for a wine trip, we thought it would be appropriate to give this place a try. Nothing gained, nothing lost. CRU's Madera location is a mid-way point for their two wine growing areas - to the west the Central Coast, which is where their CRU labeled wines come from - and to the east the Sierra Foothills for their lower priced Yosemite Views wines. The people were nice in the tasting room. We were given a long and varied tasting, but the wine was inoffensive at best. The Albariño had the best flavor. I've had ton wines that taste better for a fraction of their prices. We "checked in" on Yelp so that we didn't have to pay the tasting fee - if you can do the same, why not stop here if you have free time and are are curious? Otherwise, keep driving.
Experience: C / Wine: D
Saturday (Dry Creek)
B.R. Cohn Winery ($10 tasting?, wines $24-$100)
'09 Chardonnay - Sonoma County, '09 Reserve Chardonnay, '09 Pinot Noir - Russian River Valley, '08 Zinfandel - Sonoma Valley, '08 Zinfandel - Olive Hill Estate, '07 Cabernet Sauvignon - Olive Hill Estate, '07 Special Selection Cabernet Sauvignon - Olive Hill Estate.
Fun fact: the owner of B.R. Cohn - Bruce Cohn is the manager of the Doobie Brothers. We were given a choice of four tastings from a long list. I wasn't wild about the wine that I tried. Most of the wine came off a bit simple, good flavors but not balanced. The exceptions were the Pinot and the Cab. The grounds and building were attractive with a cool funky vibe.
Experience: B- / Wines: C+
Imagery Estate Winery (Member's tasting, $29-$42)
'09 White Burgundy, '09 Sangiovese, '08 Petit Sirah, '08 Langrien, '08 Cabernet Franc - Dry Creek, '10 Cabernet Franc (barrel tasting), '07 Barbera.
Imagery is a unique place to visit. Great art, nice architecture, extremely friendly staff - especially Pat in the member's room. Imagery's wines fell somewhere between good to pretty good for me. The White Burgundy was my favorite.
Experience: A- / Wines: B-
Benzinger Family Winery (Member's reserve tasting, wines $24-$80)
'10 'Signaterra' Sauvignon Blanc - Shone Farm, '09 'Signaterra' Chardonnay - Carneros, '09 'De Coelo' Pinot Noir - Terra Neuma, '06 'Oonapais' Bordeaux - Sonoma Mountain, '07 'Three Blocks' Bordeaux Blend - Sonoma Valley, '07 'Obsidian Point' Estate Blend - Sonoma Mountain, '07 'Tribute' Bordeaux Blend - Sonoma Mountain, '08 Tribute' Bordeaux Blend, '10 Muscat Canelli - Lake County.
A hilly, meandering complex with lush garden trails and tram tours dashing about. The tasting room was packed, and there was a chaotic atmosphere. Thankfully our friends were members so we had access to a member's counter. Our attendant - Alyssa - was fun and knowledgeable. Five of the wines that we tasted were excellent - Sauv, Pinot, Obsidian Point, and both Tributes. Also much respect to Benzinger for having wines that are organic/biodynamic.
Experience: B / Wines: A-
Ledson Winery & Vineyards (Member's private tasting, wines $26-$86)
'09 Russian River Sauvignon Blanc, '08 Carneros Chardonnay, '09 Russian River Pinot Noir, '07 Mes Trois Amours (Syrah/Grenache/Mourvedre), '07 Sonoma Valley 'Ancient Vine' Zinfandel, '07 Sonoma Valley Estate Merlot, '07 Sonoma County Cepage (Cab/Cab Franc/Petit Verdot/Merlot), '07 Sonoma Valley Syrah, '08 Knights Valley Sangiovese, '07 Knights Valley Bellisimo (Cab/Merlot), '06 Knights Valley Cabernet Sauvignon, '06 Knights Valley Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve.
Our Ledson experience was sheer opulence. The grounds of the winery are incredible. The castle is hulking and ornate at the same time. Our friends coordinated a private balcony tasting that overlooked the garden. The staff person that took care of us - Guy - was awesome. Well versed in the wine, down to earth and hilarious. All of the wines had solid and classy characteristics. The Bellisimo and the Cab Reserve were fantastic.
Experience: A- / Wines: A-
Sunday (Russian River Valley)
Road Music: Spoon - Gimme Fiction
Ridge Vineyard - Lytton Springs ($10 tasting, wines $32-$40)
'09 Jimsomare Chardonnay, '07 Lytton Springs 'Z-List', '08 Geyserville 'Z-List', '08 Estate Cabernet Sauvignon.
You certainly cannot hate tasting wine on a patio overlooking an expansive vineyard on a calm Sunday morning. Ridge has a great setup. Comfy couches and chairs that allows you to relax, enjoy good company and to take in the day. Ridge is one of the original Zin makers in Sonoma - so I had high hopes. All of the wines fell slightly below my expectations. The Lytton Springs Zin was very meek, the Geyserville was a bit more peppy. One our way out we struck up a conversation with a staff person - Alice - who was really nice and helpful.
Experience: B / Wines: B-
Unti Vineyards (no tasting fee, wines $16-$35)
'10 Rosé - Sonoma County, '10 Cuvee Blanc - Estate, '08 Grenache -Estate, '08 Zinfandel - Estate, '07 Syrah - Estate, '07 Syrah Benchland - Estate, '08 Montepulciano - Estate, '09 'Green House' Zinfandel.
We had absolutely no intention of visiting Unti. As we drove by, my friend pulled into the parking lot, thinking that Unti was another winery that she really wanted to check out. Even though she realized she was mistaken we decided to go in anyway. We did not call ahead for an appointment, but they agreed to see us just the same. Thank god for serendipity. All of the wines were superb. Great, complex flavors that were very approachable and extremely well-priced. Kristen was an awesome staff person - very clear and friendly. The space was awesomely low key. Unti was our favorite of the whole trip.
Experience: A / Wines: A
Truett Hurst (complementary tasting, wines $20-$33)
'10 Swallowtail Chardonnay, '09 Rattler Rock Zinfandel, '09 Red Rooster Zinfandel, '08 Burning Man Petite Sirah, '09 Red Field Blend (Syrah/Zin/Primotivo), NV Dessert Wine.
Truett Hurst is a very customer friendly place. The whole vibe is welcoming and mellow. We were given some barbeque, there was live music, a beautiful garden, and without a doubt the best picnic spot at a winery that I've ever seen. Adirondack chairs facing a slow moving creek, canopied by oaks. An awesome spot to enjoy the afternoon. Amy was our pourer - she was extremely friendly and fun. The wines weren't all that great. Booming, big flavor but not enough complexity and lots of heat.
Experience: A- / Wine: C+
Papapietro Perry Winery ($10 tasting, wines $28-$54)
'08 Pinot Noir - Sonoma Coast, '08 Pinot Noir - Charles Vineyard/Anderson Valley, '08 Pinot Noir - Peters Vineyard/Russian River Valley, '08 Pinot Noir - Leras Family Vineyards/Russian River Valley, '08 Pinot Noir - Elsbree Vineyard/Russian River Valley, '08 Zinfandel - Elsbree Vineyard/Russian River Valley.
We did not feel a connection with this place. The wine was okay, but were priced too high. None of the wine was very well structured. There were good flavors, but often they all felt clumped together. The staff person that waited on us was not knowledgeable. Another negative to this place was the super-schlocky t-shirts that they were selling.
Experience: C- / Wines: C
Michel-Schlumberger Wines ($10 tasting, wines $24-$50)
'10 La Bise Pinot Blanc, '07 Le Sage Merlot, '07 'Humanitas' Malbec, '91 Cabernet Sauvignon, '08 La Source Syrah, '07 'Humanitas' Pinot Noir, '08 Cabernet Franc.
I had read really good things about Michel-Schlumberger from the website Wine for Normal People. A serene setting removed from the main drag - perfect for an afternoon visit. We sat on a mission-style patio next to a fountain. Debbie was an excellent host. The wine was very good. The Syrah and the Pinot Noir were my favorites.
Experience: A- / Wines: B+
J Vineyards ($20 tasting, wines $20-$60)
'10 Pinot Gris, '09 'Barrel 16' Chardonnay, '08 'Barrel 16' Pinot Noir, '09 Pinot Noir - Robert Thomas Vineyard Block 2, NV Brut Rosé, '02 Vintage Brut.
We've had J before and really enjoyed it - and they have a good reputation. Maybe we came at a bad time or on an off-day, but our experience was really disappointing. None of the wines stood out compared to others that we'd had that day. Even the upper-echelon wines had negative qualities. Finally, the staff there were unfriendly. They did not seem to enjoy their jobs at all. Hopefully that was all an aberration.
Experience: D+ / Wines: C+
Sonoma is such a vibrant yet mellow place. So much great wine and food. It's a wonderful place to explore - especially with friends. I'm not sure that its a trip that we could ever replicate - but I'm going to try.
July '11 Santa Barbara County - Going Where We're Supposed To
The route for our third trip to SBC was pretty much written before we headed out. There were a number of wineries that were on our must try list: Fiddlehead, Alma Rosa, Beckmen, Qupe, and Dierberg Star Lane. These were all wineries that we had been told we had to see. It was nice to see that after visiting the area three times we were still able to find new wineries to enjoy.
Friday (Lompoc Wine Ghetto)
Road Music: Radiohead - In Rainbows
Fiddlehead Cellars ($10 tasting, wines $22-$50)
'08 Sauvingnon Blanc - Happy Canyon, '04 "Hunnysuckle" Sauvignon Blanc, '10 "Goosebury" Sauvignon Blanc, '10 "Pink Fiddle" Pinot Noir Rosé, '07 "Seven Twenty Eight" Piinot Noir - Fiddlestix Vineyard, '07 "Oldsville Reserve" Pinot Noir - Willamette Valley.
Fiddlehead was high on my list of wineries to visit because I've heard great things about their wine. Our high expectations were not met. The Pinots were nice, but slightly too hot on one, and too flabby on the other. The Rosé was pretty good, but just pretty good. The tasting room staff person was not friendly or informative. This probably affected our opinion of the wines.
Experience: C- / Wine: C+
Loring Wine Company ($10 tasting, wines $35-$45)
'09 Chardonnay - Sierra Mar Vineyard/Santa Lucia Highlands, '09 Pinot Noir - Shea Vineyard/Willamette Valley, '09 Pinot Noir - Keefer Ranch Vineyard/Russian River Valley, '09 Pinot Noir - Rosella's Vineyard/Santa Lucia Highlands, '09 Pinot Noir - Aubaine Vineyard/ San Luis Obispo County, '09 Pinot Noir - Cargasacchi Vineyard/Sta. Rita Hills, '09 Pinot Noir - Clos Pepe Vineayrd/Sta. Rita Hills, '09 Pinot Noir - Rancho La Viña/Sta. Rita Hills.
A tasting at Loring is interesting. They serve eight wines, seven of which are big flavor Pinots. The Pinots are served in geographic order, starting with furthest away (Oregon) - and ending with closest to the tasting room location (a few miles away). Each wine was unique from one another. That said, none of the wines were great and with all of the Pinots tagged at $45, not worth the price.
Experience: B- / Wine: B-
Zotovich Cellars ($10 tasting, wines $28-$42)
'09 Chardonnay, '08 Pinot Noir, '10 Viognier, '08 Syrah.
Zotovich is a new winery and seems to be gaining acclaim. We weren't wowed during our visit. The Chardonnay was quite good, and the Syrah was pretty good. The Pinot and Viognier were not as enjoyable. While we were there a group of well lubricated middle-aged men who arrived in a limo dominated the attention of the one staff person - so we weren't able to learn much about the Zotovich wine making process.
Experience: C+ / Wine: B-
Saturday (Santa Rosa Road, Buellton, Los Olivos)
Road Music: Easy Star All-Stars - Radiodread
Lafond Winery ($10 tasting, wines $22-$48)
'08 Chardonnay, '07 Estate Chardonnay, '08 Pinot Noir, '08 Pinot Noir - Arita Hills Vineyard, '06 Pinot Noir - Lafond Vineyard, '09 Syrah.
We did not expect much from Lafond. We chose it because it was on the same road near as Alma Rosa. We were thanking our random luck after our visit, because it was an excellent stop for us. We enjoyed the full roster of wines. The Chardonnay, '06 Pinot, and Syrah were the standouts. Lafond really rolls out the red carpet for visitors. They had an awesome complementary spread of cheese, meat, fruit, and sweets to pair with the wines. Our favorite part about Lafond was Diane. She was extremely nice, passionate, and helpful. Lafond is one of the oldest wineries in the region - and it seems that they have great confidence in their wine and their customer service.
Experience: A- / Wine: B+
Alma Rosa Winery & Vineyards ($15 for Pinot only tasting, wines $32-$43)
'08 Pinot Noir - La Encantada Vineyard Clone 115, '08 Pinot Noir - Sta. Rita Hills, '07 Pinot Noir - Sta. Rita Hills, '08 Pinot Noir - La Encantada Vineyard, '09 Pinot Noir - La Encantada Clone 667.
The Sanfords - who own Alma Rosa - are basically the first family of this wine region. They began planting Pinot Noir in 1970. After separating from Sanford Winery in 2005, they created Alma Rosa in their minds eye. They create organic and sustainable wine. We had a choice of a mixed tasting with a variety of wines for $10, or a Pinot Noir only flight for $15. We went with the Pinot flight. The bummer was that our friends decided to go with the mixed flight, so they were served in a different area from us, which was kind of annoying that we couldn't hang out. The grounds are funky and cool - though a bit crowded when we were there. Our pourer was not knowledgeable about the wines unfortunately. It was fun to see Chris Burroughs, the Tasting Room Manager, who had a role in "Sideways." We dug each wine. There were interesting differences between them and each had high quality. The '07, '08 La Encantada, and the '09 were our favorites.
Experience: B- / Wines: B+
Cold Heaven Cellars ($10 tasting)
'09 Viognier - Santa Ynez Valley, '09 Viognier - Le Bon Climat Vineyard, '09 Viognier - Sanford & Benedict Vineyard, '07 Domaine des Deux Mondes "Saints and Sinners" Viognier, '09 "Makepeace" Pinot Noir, '09 "Nevertell" Pinot Noir, '03 "Second Sin" Syrah, '03 Late Harvest Viognier.
Cold Heaven is known for Viognier, which is a nice departure from the norm in the region. The tasting room was in a state of disarray while we were there. Apparently the manager had just quit, and the staff person there was trying to figure out how to deal with everything. Withstanding that, the wine was very nice. It was nice to visit a winery that put a lot of energy into making good quality white wine.
Experience: C+ / Wines: B
Beckmen Vineyards ($10 tasting, wines $16-$39)
'10 Sauvignon Blanc, '09 Le Bec Blanc (Rossanne, Marsanne, Grenache Blanc), 09 Cuvee Le Bec (Grenache, Syrah, Mourvedre, Counoise), '09 Syrah, '09 Grenache - Purisima Mountain Vineyard.
Beckmen has a really good reputation. They are 100% biodynamic, which is huge undertaking and in my opinion makes better wine. They have a rambling property with picnic areas looking over a small pond. The staff there were not engaging, which put a damper on the experience. We had a choice between a regular $10 flight and a $15 reserve flight. We chose the regular flight. The wines on the regular list were nicely priced. We dug all of the wine especially the Syrah and the Grenache.
Experience: C+ / Wines: B+
Qupé Winery ($10 tasting)
Verdad '10 Albariño, '10 Viognier, '10 Marsanne, '08 Chardonnay, Verdad '08 Tempranillo, '09 Grenache, Ethan '09 Syrah, '05 Syrah.
Qupé is a very solid winery. They are also one of the original wineries of the region. We enjoyed all of the wines on the tasting list. They host three wine labels: Verdad - for their Spanish wines, Ethan - for wines created by Ethan Linquist, the second generation of the owners, and Qupé. The Albariño, and the '05 Syrah were the standouts. It was a busy day and the staff were efficiently handling customers. The guy that took care of us was really low key, verging on uninterested.
Experience: B / Wines: A-
Sunday (Highway 246)
Dierberg & Star Lane Vineyards ($10 tasting, wines $20-$80)
Star Lane '08 Sauvignon Blanc, Star Lane '09 Sauvignon Blanc, Dierberg '08 Chardonnay, Dierberg '07 Pinot Noir, Star Lane '07 Merlot, Star Lane '06 Cabernet Sauvignon, Star Lane '05 Cabernet Sauvignon, Star Lane '06 "Astral" Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve.
Of all of the wineries that we visited on this trip Dierberg was our favorite - which is saying a lot. The tasting room is a funky farmhouse brightly painted. The staff were very helpful. They spoke in depth and at a level that suited our experience level with wine. The winery has two labels. Dierberg produces the Chardonnay and Pinot Noir from a vineyard near Santa Maria. Star Lane produces Sauvignon Blanc, Merlot, and Cabernet Sauvignon from their warmer weather Happy Canyon location. Each wine aside from the Chard were unique, complex, and tasty. We really enjoyed the Merlot and all of the Cabs.
Experience: B+ / Wines: A-
Another fine weekend spent in Santa Barbara County. Qupé and Dierberg Star Lane really blew us away, Lafond and Cold Heaven were great finds, Alma Rosa and Beckmen were good - though slightly below our high expectations. The mellow mood of the wineries and the opportunity to learn from the staff sets the region apart from others.
Friday (Lompoc Wine Ghetto)
Road Music: Radiohead - In Rainbows
Fiddlehead Cellars ($10 tasting, wines $22-$50)
'08 Sauvingnon Blanc - Happy Canyon, '04 "Hunnysuckle" Sauvignon Blanc, '10 "Goosebury" Sauvignon Blanc, '10 "Pink Fiddle" Pinot Noir Rosé, '07 "Seven Twenty Eight" Piinot Noir - Fiddlestix Vineyard, '07 "Oldsville Reserve" Pinot Noir - Willamette Valley.
Fiddlehead was high on my list of wineries to visit because I've heard great things about their wine. Our high expectations were not met. The Pinots were nice, but slightly too hot on one, and too flabby on the other. The Rosé was pretty good, but just pretty good. The tasting room staff person was not friendly or informative. This probably affected our opinion of the wines.
Experience: C- / Wine: C+
Loring Wine Company ($10 tasting, wines $35-$45)
'09 Chardonnay - Sierra Mar Vineyard/Santa Lucia Highlands, '09 Pinot Noir - Shea Vineyard/Willamette Valley, '09 Pinot Noir - Keefer Ranch Vineyard/Russian River Valley, '09 Pinot Noir - Rosella's Vineyard/Santa Lucia Highlands, '09 Pinot Noir - Aubaine Vineyard/ San Luis Obispo County, '09 Pinot Noir - Cargasacchi Vineyard/Sta. Rita Hills, '09 Pinot Noir - Clos Pepe Vineayrd/Sta. Rita Hills, '09 Pinot Noir - Rancho La Viña/Sta. Rita Hills.
A tasting at Loring is interesting. They serve eight wines, seven of which are big flavor Pinots. The Pinots are served in geographic order, starting with furthest away (Oregon) - and ending with closest to the tasting room location (a few miles away). Each wine was unique from one another. That said, none of the wines were great and with all of the Pinots tagged at $45, not worth the price.
Experience: B- / Wine: B-
Zotovich Cellars ($10 tasting, wines $28-$42)
'09 Chardonnay, '08 Pinot Noir, '10 Viognier, '08 Syrah.
Zotovich is a new winery and seems to be gaining acclaim. We weren't wowed during our visit. The Chardonnay was quite good, and the Syrah was pretty good. The Pinot and Viognier were not as enjoyable. While we were there a group of well lubricated middle-aged men who arrived in a limo dominated the attention of the one staff person - so we weren't able to learn much about the Zotovich wine making process.
Experience: C+ / Wine: B-
Saturday (Santa Rosa Road, Buellton, Los Olivos)
Road Music: Easy Star All-Stars - Radiodread
Lafond Winery ($10 tasting, wines $22-$48)
'08 Chardonnay, '07 Estate Chardonnay, '08 Pinot Noir, '08 Pinot Noir - Arita Hills Vineyard, '06 Pinot Noir - Lafond Vineyard, '09 Syrah.
We did not expect much from Lafond. We chose it because it was on the same road near as Alma Rosa. We were thanking our random luck after our visit, because it was an excellent stop for us. We enjoyed the full roster of wines. The Chardonnay, '06 Pinot, and Syrah were the standouts. Lafond really rolls out the red carpet for visitors. They had an awesome complementary spread of cheese, meat, fruit, and sweets to pair with the wines. Our favorite part about Lafond was Diane. She was extremely nice, passionate, and helpful. Lafond is one of the oldest wineries in the region - and it seems that they have great confidence in their wine and their customer service.
Experience: A- / Wine: B+
Alma Rosa Winery & Vineyards ($15 for Pinot only tasting, wines $32-$43)
'08 Pinot Noir - La Encantada Vineyard Clone 115, '08 Pinot Noir - Sta. Rita Hills, '07 Pinot Noir - Sta. Rita Hills, '08 Pinot Noir - La Encantada Vineyard, '09 Pinot Noir - La Encantada Clone 667.
The Sanfords - who own Alma Rosa - are basically the first family of this wine region. They began planting Pinot Noir in 1970. After separating from Sanford Winery in 2005, they created Alma Rosa in their minds eye. They create organic and sustainable wine. We had a choice of a mixed tasting with a variety of wines for $10, or a Pinot Noir only flight for $15. We went with the Pinot flight. The bummer was that our friends decided to go with the mixed flight, so they were served in a different area from us, which was kind of annoying that we couldn't hang out. The grounds are funky and cool - though a bit crowded when we were there. Our pourer was not knowledgeable about the wines unfortunately. It was fun to see Chris Burroughs, the Tasting Room Manager, who had a role in "Sideways." We dug each wine. There were interesting differences between them and each had high quality. The '07, '08 La Encantada, and the '09 were our favorites.
Experience: B- / Wines: B+
Cold Heaven Cellars ($10 tasting)
'09 Viognier - Santa Ynez Valley, '09 Viognier - Le Bon Climat Vineyard, '09 Viognier - Sanford & Benedict Vineyard, '07 Domaine des Deux Mondes "Saints and Sinners" Viognier, '09 "Makepeace" Pinot Noir, '09 "Nevertell" Pinot Noir, '03 "Second Sin" Syrah, '03 Late Harvest Viognier.
Cold Heaven is known for Viognier, which is a nice departure from the norm in the region. The tasting room was in a state of disarray while we were there. Apparently the manager had just quit, and the staff person there was trying to figure out how to deal with everything. Withstanding that, the wine was very nice. It was nice to visit a winery that put a lot of energy into making good quality white wine.
Experience: C+ / Wines: B
Beckmen Vineyards ($10 tasting, wines $16-$39)
'10 Sauvignon Blanc, '09 Le Bec Blanc (Rossanne, Marsanne, Grenache Blanc), 09 Cuvee Le Bec (Grenache, Syrah, Mourvedre, Counoise), '09 Syrah, '09 Grenache - Purisima Mountain Vineyard.
Beckmen has a really good reputation. They are 100% biodynamic, which is huge undertaking and in my opinion makes better wine. They have a rambling property with picnic areas looking over a small pond. The staff there were not engaging, which put a damper on the experience. We had a choice between a regular $10 flight and a $15 reserve flight. We chose the regular flight. The wines on the regular list were nicely priced. We dug all of the wine especially the Syrah and the Grenache.
Experience: C+ / Wines: B+
Qupé Winery ($10 tasting)
Verdad '10 Albariño, '10 Viognier, '10 Marsanne, '08 Chardonnay, Verdad '08 Tempranillo, '09 Grenache, Ethan '09 Syrah, '05 Syrah.
Qupé is a very solid winery. They are also one of the original wineries of the region. We enjoyed all of the wines on the tasting list. They host three wine labels: Verdad - for their Spanish wines, Ethan - for wines created by Ethan Linquist, the second generation of the owners, and Qupé. The Albariño, and the '05 Syrah were the standouts. It was a busy day and the staff were efficiently handling customers. The guy that took care of us was really low key, verging on uninterested.
Experience: B / Wines: A-
Sunday (Highway 246)
Dierberg & Star Lane Vineyards ($10 tasting, wines $20-$80)
Star Lane '08 Sauvignon Blanc, Star Lane '09 Sauvignon Blanc, Dierberg '08 Chardonnay, Dierberg '07 Pinot Noir, Star Lane '07 Merlot, Star Lane '06 Cabernet Sauvignon, Star Lane '05 Cabernet Sauvignon, Star Lane '06 "Astral" Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve.
Of all of the wineries that we visited on this trip Dierberg was our favorite - which is saying a lot. The tasting room is a funky farmhouse brightly painted. The staff were very helpful. They spoke in depth and at a level that suited our experience level with wine. The winery has two labels. Dierberg produces the Chardonnay and Pinot Noir from a vineyard near Santa Maria. Star Lane produces Sauvignon Blanc, Merlot, and Cabernet Sauvignon from their warmer weather Happy Canyon location. Each wine aside from the Chard were unique, complex, and tasty. We really enjoyed the Merlot and all of the Cabs.
Experience: B+ / Wines: A-
Another fine weekend spent in Santa Barbara County. Qupé and Dierberg Star Lane really blew us away, Lafond and Cold Heaven were great finds, Alma Rosa and Beckmen were good - though slightly below our high expectations. The mellow mood of the wineries and the opportunity to learn from the staff sets the region apart from others.
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