This is actually the third leg of a our holiday journey. First we explored the Sierra Foothills, then made a brief stop off in Monterey when visiting friends, and finally getting back to our home region, Santa Barbara. Actually, this final leg was it was a work day for my wife, and a kick it with friends day for me. Since my wife had to stop in Santa Barbara for work purposes, I was joined some LA friends to explore a few of the tasting rooms in the Santa Barbara Funk Zone. I've dropped in on the Funk Zone a few times before, but had never dedicated a full day to it, so I was excited to spend some quality time with friends while exploring. Needless to say, my wife was less than excited that she had to work while all this was going on.
Riverbench Vineyard (tasting $12, wines $24-$48)
'13 "Bedrock" Chardonnay, '13 Estate Chardonnay, '11 "Chapel View" Chardonnay, '11 Reserve Chardonnay, '12 Estate Pinot Noir, '11 Reserve Pinot Noir, '12 "Mesa" Pinot Noir, '11 "One Palm" Pinot Noir
Riverbench has a good reputation. Their winemaker, Clarissa Nagy, is highly considered in the area. Her husband is the winemaker at Byron, and I get the sense that they have a collaborative partnership. The primary focal points for Riverbench are Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and bubbly wines made with Chardonnay and/or Pinot Noir.
Since their actual winery is way up on the northern edge of the region, I was glad that they opened a new tasting room in the Funk Zone, making it a bit easier for us to access. The tasting room was chic and sleek. The staff were fine, though not terribly engaging. There were a handful of different tasting options, we chose the "Chardonnay, Up, Up and Array" and the "Pinot Noir All Star" flights. The Chardonnays were all enjoyable and they had nice diversity from one another. The Bedrock was 100% fermented in steel tanks, while the other three were aged in varying amounts of new French oak barrels.The Reserve was my favorite of the four that we tried, and at $32, a decent price point for a quality Chardonnay the region. The Pinots were also nicely varied - there were some neat flavor characteristics such as green olives in the Estate bottling and pencil shavings in the Reserve. The "Mesa" and the "One Palm" were a little too fruit forward for my tastes.
Experience: B- / Wines: B+
Whitcraft Winery (tasting $12, wines $40-$60)
'13 Sierra Madre Chardonnay, '13 Pinot Noir - Pence Ranch, '13 Pinot Noir - Presqu'ile, '09 Pinot Noir - Morning Dew Vineyard (Anderson Valley), '09 Syrah - Stolpman, '12 Syrah - Clover Creek
There are a handful of Santa Barbara urban tasting rooms that predate the Funk Zone. Whitcraft is one of those old timers, having been established in 1985. Their tasting room isn't too far from the Funk Zone, though it was a little bit more of a walk than I expected. They are in a strange little industrial nook close to the ocean, but kinda distant from most stuff.
Whitcraft was recommended to me by Wes Hagen, formerly of Clos Pepe. Since Wes suggested it, and I sort of worship Wes, I made damn sure that I visited it when I had the chance. The tasting room was quite small, and nothing at all fancy, pleasantly not image-conscious. The tasting room guy was super friendly and proud of the wines that he was pouring.
Like Wes Hagen, Drake Whitcraft does his own thing. His wines are made with as little intervention as possible - not fined or filtered, light use of sulfur and uses no other chemicals. All of the red wines are made with whole-cluster fermentation, meaning that the stems and skins are included during the fermentation process, leading to rich and full-bodied flavors.
And these were definitely some big bad wines to drink. The one white that we tried, the Chardonnay, was quite bright and textured. All three Pinots were flavorful and fun. The Sierra Madre was lightest in body, though still masculine. It was my favorite of the three, the other two were good but a bit too much bombast. I enjoyed both of the Syrahs, probably the Stolpman more as it was a bit more restrained. Across the board I thought that the wines were adventurous and enjoyable. However, they were too pricey for me to purchase.
Experience: B / Wines: B
Municipal Winemakers (tasting $10, wines $25-$50)
'13 "Bright Red" (Grenache/Cinsault/Counoise/Syrah/Mourvèdre), '13 Grenache, '13 Pinot Noir - Santa Rita Hills, '13 "MCS" (Mourvèdre/Carignan/Syrah), '10 "The End" (Grenache/Syrah)
I had visited Municipal once before, just over a year ago when in town for a wedding. The first time I was intrigued by the place, though I thought the wine was just ok. But, I dug the feel the first time, so I wanted to give in another shot.
I won't go into detail about the decor, just imagine a winery designed by Wes Anderson. So that's to be enjoyed. However, the two shortcomings of the winery the first time that I was there was the service and the wine. And in this visit, the same two things were lacking. Once again the folks working at the tasting room were indifferent about what they were doing there, which is kind of a bummer. And once again the wine was not great, actually in some cases, hard to enjoy - and it makes me very sad when wine isn't enjoyable to drink. The "Bright Red" and "The End" were quaffable, but that's about it. The Grenache was my least favorite, too syrupy, sharp and overt.
Experience: B- / Wines: C-
Kunin Wines (tasting 10?, wines $26-$45)
'13 Sauvignon Blanc - McGinley Vineyard, '13 "Pape Star" White Rhone Blend (Grenache Blanc/Roussanne), '13 Viognier - Camp 4 Vineyard, '13 Carignan - Camp 4 Vineyard, '13 "Pape Star" Red Rhone Blend (Grenache/Syrah/Mourvèdre), '08 Syrah - Alisos Vineyard, '13 Zinfandel - Paso Robles
Wine is obviously a yuppie pursuit, especially so when actively going to taste wines. However, I still find it off-putting when I come across wine tasting rooms that are overly pretentious. I know that it's ridiculous to be surprised by stuffiness at wineries, but there are times when I am honestly caught off guard by it. Kunin was definitely haughty, perhaps one of the haughtiest joints I've ever visited. I think it was more the customers than the staff, though the staff weren't all that warm or down-to-earth either.
I was a bit mixed about the wines. Most had good aspects, but most also had less-enjoyable aspects. The Sauvignon Blanc reeked of cat pee (I acknowledge that's considered a positive aspect in some white wines but in this instance it was too heavy to be enjoyable), but was nice and simple on the palate. The Viognier was too syrupy and sharp. The Carignan had a very interesting aroma - rainforest - but was overly sweet. The red Rhone blend flavors came off too juicy and just inauthentic. The Zinfandel was the most interesting - celery and white pepper nose, juicy though balanced, maybe too much heat, but interesting tartness.
Experience: C / Wines: C+
The Funk Zone is definitely it's own animal in comparison to the further afield Santa Barbara wine region. It's definitely seeking to attract folks, and given the quick growth that it's experiencing, it is likely succeeding. I think what's working for it is it's diversity. We went from the quietly confident Riverbench, to the brassy Whitcraft, to the absurd Municipal, and finally to the haughty Kunin, all within a square mile. When it comes to wine, the Funk Zone probably has you covered. And if the first three places that you visit aren't a fit, there's another place for you to check out right across the street.
Showing posts with label Santa Barbara. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Santa Barbara. Show all posts
November '14 Santa Barbara Trip - Black Friday
When your wife has work to do on the day after Thanksgiving, and you've got the day off, might as well hook up with some friends and check out some wineries. We wanted to check out some estate wineries, as well as a few tasting rooms in Los Olivos. Lincourt and Roblar are two of a handful of estate wineries that are on the east side of the Santa Ynez Valley that I had not yet visited, so we wanted to check those places out. After a morning afield, we planned to lunch in Los Olivos and meet up with a few more friends. Los Olivos was filled with folks who found themselves in the same predicament as us - thirsty and looking for something to do.
Once again I apologize for the lack of photos - I'm crap at remembering to take them, that's something my wife is smart about doing.
Lincourt Winery ($10 tasting, wines $18-$50)
'12 Steel Chardonnay, '13 Rosé (Grenache/Grüner Veltliner), '10 "Carol Ann" Chardonnay, '12 Pinot Noir - Lindsay's Vineyard, '12 "Annie Dyer" Pinot Noir, '12 Syrah, '11 Merlot, '12 Cabernet Sauvignon
A long while back, a coworker recommended Lincourt to me. I'd been dismissive of her recommendation, largely because Lincourt is a piece of a wine empire. Lincourt was the first piece, but the Foley Wine Group also is connected to Foley and Firestone in Santa Barbara, as well as wineries in Napa, Sonoma, Lake County, Washington and New Zealand. Empires give me pause - their products can be obnoxiously mainstream. However, over the years, I'd heard random folks saying supportive things about Lincourt, so I put it on my list.
Since my friend and I got such an early start leaving LA, Lincourt was an easy choice being that they are one of the only wineries in the area that opens at 10am. Arrive at 10am we did, first ones in the door. The property was pretty expansive from what I could see, open lawns, and a few patio areas. Inside was decorated typically - light coloring, a good amount of stuff for sale, a few different counters to sidle up to. The tasting room staff were still getting prepped when we waltzed in. We had a good conversation with the dude that took care of us. He was very enthusiastic about Lincourt's wines, and wine in general. He had all sorts of recommendations about where to travel to in France to enjoy wine.
Given the fact that Lincourt and Foley share a winemaker, it's not surprising that the profiles of the wines are similar - calm, smartly made, simple, broad-scale appeal. Of the chardonnays, I preferred the Carol Ann, despite the presence of aging in oak barrels, it was pretty. The Rosé was enjoyably crisp with a slight effervescence. Both Pinots were enjoyable, the Anne Dyer characteristics were well integrated and was quite full flavored - my favorite wine of the tasting. The Syrah was dense with jumpy fruit and vegetable notes. The merlot was overt - too much pucker. I'm bearish on the idea of Cabernet Sauvignons being grown in the region, I don't think that they work out all that well. The Lincourt Cabernet was good for the area, well layered with some chocolate, though still not as contemplative as the exciting Cabernets that I've had before.
Experience: B / Wine: B
Roblar Winery ($10 tasting, wines $20-$42)
'11 "Block One Reserve" Sauvignon Blanc, '12 Central Coast Chardonnay, '12 Sta. Rita Hills Pinot Noir, '11 Grenache, '11 Estate Merlot
I've driven past Roblar a number of times, its on the road to a handful of places that I've visited before. From that vantage, I've been inclined to keep on driving by because it looks like a place that is popular with party buses - expansive parking lot and tons of touristy-looking folks rambling about. While researching this trip, I happened across Roblar's website, and noticed that they are a sister winery to Michel-Schlumberger in Sonoma, which I visited a few years back and loved. Well, if Robar had any of that magic, I was in.
The building is huge - it houses a sprawling tasting room and their winery. The tasting room evokes a hunting lodge feel, lots of wood and a massive fireplace. Even here we were early arrivals, so we grabbed a few tall chairs and sat at the bar. Given the high ceiling, I imagine when the place is busy it can get loud. Thankfully we had the run of the place when we were there. The tasting room manager was fun, very animated and very much about the Roblar wine.
The regular tasting list only scratched the surface of the wines that Roblar offers. It seemed for every varietal, there were three levels of choices. For the chardonnays, we were told that the premium chard was "like Land 'o Lakes," the moderate "I Can't Believe It's Not Butter," and the budget "Parkay." Categorizing the wines like that was a bad sign to me. Buttery chardonnay can beat streets. If that's what they're after they weren't going to be very enjoyable to me. The Sauvingnon Blanc followed that mold - too sweet, various flavors but mainstream. Despite my apprehension, the chardonnay was decent, crisp and approachable, The Pinot Noir as well was pretty good, classic juicy mainstream flavors, lots of cherry. The Grenache was a big disappointment. It is often a favorite of mine, but this fella was far too sweet to be enjoyable. I was surprised by how much I enjoyed the Merlot - fruit-forward yet calm, and very nice acid.
Experience: C+ / Wine: C+
Larner Wine ($10 tasting, wines $23-$65)
'12 Rosé (Syrah/Grenache/Mourvèdre), '10 "Elemental" Red Blend (Grenache/Syrah/Mourvèdre), '10 Grenache, '10 Syrah, '09 Reserve Syrah
I'm a bit familiar with Larner's vineyard, as it's been a esteemed source of grapes for other wineries - supplying Samsara, Kaena, Bonaccorsi, Kenneth-Crawford and others. More recently, they've started making wines for their own label. Larner's tasting room is hidden in plain sight. Right at the main intersection in Los Olivos, smushed next to the Los Olivos General Store and the Panino sandwich shop is their tasting room. It's not even really a room, it's like an alcove. At one point during our tasting there were six people including us, and it was really crowded. Despite that, the woman in the tasting room was very cool, and excited to share Larner wines.
Small room, big wines. The rosé was grand - stark yet had a bright note in the middle. The reds were increasingly bombastic and creative. The "Elemental" was savory, vibrant and dense. The grenache started smooth, but became quite grippy toward the end - too overt for me. The sweet tomato entry on the regular syrah gave way to a dark blueberries profile - quite tart. The reserve syrah was the most interesting red - crushed flowers and juicy tannins - very boisterous.The wines were funny, as I was drinking them I was really engaged in them, until I realized how overt they were - these are big mamma-jamma wines, but they are made with intricate characteristics. Not my favorite profile, but definitely enjoyable and respectable.
Experience: B / Wines: B+
Byron Wines ($10 tasting, wines $22-$45)
'12 Pinot Blanc, '12 Chardonnay, '12 Chardonnay - Nielson Vineyard, '11 Pinot Noir, '12 Pinot Noir - Nielson Vineyard, '11 Pinot Noir - Julia's Vineyard
We really enjoyed Byron on our first visit there a few years back. The wine was expressive and mature, and the staff were confident and fun. This time around they seemed a bit off their game. I will have to say that it was quite crowded, but even with that they didn't seem to be able to deal with the situation. One of my friends purchased wine, which is supposed to then waive the tasting fee, when she pointed out that they had failed to do that, they took ten minutes to fix it, but still didn't fix it correctly. When she brought their attention to that mistake, they were not receptive. Rather than push it, my friend gave up. This experience definitely runs counter to to calmness and nimbleness that we were treated to before - so hopefully an anomaly.
Perhaps it was the busyness, or the exasperated manner of the staff when they were pouring, but I didn't enjoy the wine as much this time either. The whites were quite clean and crisp, but seemed buttoned up. I wrote in my notes that the Nielson Vineyard Chardonnay was the Tracey Flick of wines. The pinot noirs were more compelling. While the Santa Maria Valley Pinot was a bit too sweet, the Nielson Vineyard and the Julia's Vineyard were delicious - dark entry, good acid, well balanced.
Experience: B- / Wines: B
For a one day jaunt, we covered a good amount of ground (I didn't bother to add any notes about my tastings at Stolpman and Samsara considering that I've written so positively before about both that there's little new to add to my enthusiasm for those place). I was definitely thankful to not be the driver for this trip. Visiting some of the older estate wineries - Lincourt and Roblar - was interesting. The Foley/Lincourt empire is definitely smart about their enterprise. And while I didn't love Roblar, I can appreciate that they are creating quality wines with a smart business practice. I think I'm going to have to go back to Larner at some point to figure out if their wines are too big for me, or justifiably bombastic.
Once again I apologize for the lack of photos - I'm crap at remembering to take them, that's something my wife is smart about doing.
Lincourt Winery ($10 tasting, wines $18-$50)
'12 Steel Chardonnay, '13 Rosé (Grenache/Grüner Veltliner), '10 "Carol Ann" Chardonnay, '12 Pinot Noir - Lindsay's Vineyard, '12 "Annie Dyer" Pinot Noir, '12 Syrah, '11 Merlot, '12 Cabernet Sauvignon
A long while back, a coworker recommended Lincourt to me. I'd been dismissive of her recommendation, largely because Lincourt is a piece of a wine empire. Lincourt was the first piece, but the Foley Wine Group also is connected to Foley and Firestone in Santa Barbara, as well as wineries in Napa, Sonoma, Lake County, Washington and New Zealand. Empires give me pause - their products can be obnoxiously mainstream. However, over the years, I'd heard random folks saying supportive things about Lincourt, so I put it on my list.
Since my friend and I got such an early start leaving LA, Lincourt was an easy choice being that they are one of the only wineries in the area that opens at 10am. Arrive at 10am we did, first ones in the door. The property was pretty expansive from what I could see, open lawns, and a few patio areas. Inside was decorated typically - light coloring, a good amount of stuff for sale, a few different counters to sidle up to. The tasting room staff were still getting prepped when we waltzed in. We had a good conversation with the dude that took care of us. He was very enthusiastic about Lincourt's wines, and wine in general. He had all sorts of recommendations about where to travel to in France to enjoy wine.
Given the fact that Lincourt and Foley share a winemaker, it's not surprising that the profiles of the wines are similar - calm, smartly made, simple, broad-scale appeal. Of the chardonnays, I preferred the Carol Ann, despite the presence of aging in oak barrels, it was pretty. The Rosé was enjoyably crisp with a slight effervescence. Both Pinots were enjoyable, the Anne Dyer characteristics were well integrated and was quite full flavored - my favorite wine of the tasting. The Syrah was dense with jumpy fruit and vegetable notes. The merlot was overt - too much pucker. I'm bearish on the idea of Cabernet Sauvignons being grown in the region, I don't think that they work out all that well. The Lincourt Cabernet was good for the area, well layered with some chocolate, though still not as contemplative as the exciting Cabernets that I've had before.
Experience: B / Wine: B
Roblar Winery ($10 tasting, wines $20-$42)
'11 "Block One Reserve" Sauvignon Blanc, '12 Central Coast Chardonnay, '12 Sta. Rita Hills Pinot Noir, '11 Grenache, '11 Estate Merlot
I've driven past Roblar a number of times, its on the road to a handful of places that I've visited before. From that vantage, I've been inclined to keep on driving by because it looks like a place that is popular with party buses - expansive parking lot and tons of touristy-looking folks rambling about. While researching this trip, I happened across Roblar's website, and noticed that they are a sister winery to Michel-Schlumberger in Sonoma, which I visited a few years back and loved. Well, if Robar had any of that magic, I was in.
The building is huge - it houses a sprawling tasting room and their winery. The tasting room evokes a hunting lodge feel, lots of wood and a massive fireplace. Even here we were early arrivals, so we grabbed a few tall chairs and sat at the bar. Given the high ceiling, I imagine when the place is busy it can get loud. Thankfully we had the run of the place when we were there. The tasting room manager was fun, very animated and very much about the Roblar wine.
The regular tasting list only scratched the surface of the wines that Roblar offers. It seemed for every varietal, there were three levels of choices. For the chardonnays, we were told that the premium chard was "like Land 'o Lakes," the moderate "I Can't Believe It's Not Butter," and the budget "Parkay." Categorizing the wines like that was a bad sign to me. Buttery chardonnay can beat streets. If that's what they're after they weren't going to be very enjoyable to me. The Sauvingnon Blanc followed that mold - too sweet, various flavors but mainstream. Despite my apprehension, the chardonnay was decent, crisp and approachable, The Pinot Noir as well was pretty good, classic juicy mainstream flavors, lots of cherry. The Grenache was a big disappointment. It is often a favorite of mine, but this fella was far too sweet to be enjoyable. I was surprised by how much I enjoyed the Merlot - fruit-forward yet calm, and very nice acid.
Experience: C+ / Wine: C+
Larner Wine ($10 tasting, wines $23-$65)
'12 Rosé (Syrah/Grenache/Mourvèdre), '10 "Elemental" Red Blend (Grenache/Syrah/Mourvèdre), '10 Grenache, '10 Syrah, '09 Reserve Syrah
I'm a bit familiar with Larner's vineyard, as it's been a esteemed source of grapes for other wineries - supplying Samsara, Kaena, Bonaccorsi, Kenneth-Crawford and others. More recently, they've started making wines for their own label. Larner's tasting room is hidden in plain sight. Right at the main intersection in Los Olivos, smushed next to the Los Olivos General Store and the Panino sandwich shop is their tasting room. It's not even really a room, it's like an alcove. At one point during our tasting there were six people including us, and it was really crowded. Despite that, the woman in the tasting room was very cool, and excited to share Larner wines.
Small room, big wines. The rosé was grand - stark yet had a bright note in the middle. The reds were increasingly bombastic and creative. The "Elemental" was savory, vibrant and dense. The grenache started smooth, but became quite grippy toward the end - too overt for me. The sweet tomato entry on the regular syrah gave way to a dark blueberries profile - quite tart. The reserve syrah was the most interesting red - crushed flowers and juicy tannins - very boisterous.The wines were funny, as I was drinking them I was really engaged in them, until I realized how overt they were - these are big mamma-jamma wines, but they are made with intricate characteristics. Not my favorite profile, but definitely enjoyable and respectable.
Experience: B / Wines: B+
Byron Wines ($10 tasting, wines $22-$45)
'12 Pinot Blanc, '12 Chardonnay, '12 Chardonnay - Nielson Vineyard, '11 Pinot Noir, '12 Pinot Noir - Nielson Vineyard, '11 Pinot Noir - Julia's Vineyard
We really enjoyed Byron on our first visit there a few years back. The wine was expressive and mature, and the staff were confident and fun. This time around they seemed a bit off their game. I will have to say that it was quite crowded, but even with that they didn't seem to be able to deal with the situation. One of my friends purchased wine, which is supposed to then waive the tasting fee, when she pointed out that they had failed to do that, they took ten minutes to fix it, but still didn't fix it correctly. When she brought their attention to that mistake, they were not receptive. Rather than push it, my friend gave up. This experience definitely runs counter to to calmness and nimbleness that we were treated to before - so hopefully an anomaly.
Perhaps it was the busyness, or the exasperated manner of the staff when they were pouring, but I didn't enjoy the wine as much this time either. The whites were quite clean and crisp, but seemed buttoned up. I wrote in my notes that the Nielson Vineyard Chardonnay was the Tracey Flick of wines. The pinot noirs were more compelling. While the Santa Maria Valley Pinot was a bit too sweet, the Nielson Vineyard and the Julia's Vineyard were delicious - dark entry, good acid, well balanced.
Experience: B- / Wines: B
For a one day jaunt, we covered a good amount of ground (I didn't bother to add any notes about my tastings at Stolpman and Samsara considering that I've written so positively before about both that there's little new to add to my enthusiasm for those place). I was definitely thankful to not be the driver for this trip. Visiting some of the older estate wineries - Lincourt and Roblar - was interesting. The Foley/Lincourt empire is definitely smart about their enterprise. And while I didn't love Roblar, I can appreciate that they are creating quality wines with a smart business practice. I think I'm going to have to go back to Larner at some point to figure out if their wines are too big for me, or justifiably bombastic.
October '14 Santa Barbara Trip - Backtracking
We found ourselves drawn up to the area once again by a party. This time we were going to one of Stolpman's member parties at their vineyard in Ballard Canyon. That party, btw, was off the chain. Even though it was ridiculously hot that day, they really rolled out the red carpet for their members - a great tour led by Peter Stolpman, Ruben "The Grape Whisperer" Solórzano cooked up some awesome tacos, almost the full roster of Stolpman wines were being poured, and they even had a mariachi band - quite a shindig. After the party we had that afternoon and next morning to visit some other wineries.I've realized that many of the places that I visited early on deserve a second glace. After a second visit to Zotovich, I changed my tune. Some places, like Beckmen, took a second visit to confirm my opinion. And at Palmina, which I loved on my first visit, strongly lost it's luster the second time around. So with that in mind, we decided to revisit Cold Heaven in Buellton on Saturday, and then Longoria and Moretti on Sunday in Lompoc.
Cold Heaven Cellars ($10 tasting, wines $22-$75)
'12 Viognier- Le Bon Climat, '11 "Mutchmore" Pinot Noir, '10 "Nevertell" Pinot Noir, '10 "Second Sin" Syrah, '04 "Second Sin" Syrah, '08 "Domaine Des Mondes" Syrah, '13 Late Harvest Viognier
Owner/winemaker Morgan Clendenen is an interesting character. She got
her start in wine working for a distributor in North Carolina. During a
stint at a Napa winery, she met Jim Clendenen, an institution in the Santa
Barbara region - most known for his winery Au Bon Climat. Morgan and Jim married and she
started the Cold Heaven label with him. They are now divorced, and Morgan know runs the winery independently. Cold Heaven is a quandary. Despite how our first visit was off-kilter, we still enjoyed the wines. And, at one of our early wine parties, a Cold Heaven Pinot was a big hit. It's focus on Viognier was one of the original attractants for us, it's my wife's favorite white grape. We were excited to go back for a revisit.
Once again the tasting room was a bit of a disaster. The dude running the place was terribly nice, but really not on top of things. The tasting room is tiny, and any time there was more than one small group in for a tasting it got really cramped, which he didn't really have a solution for. Also, we were looking forward to the Viognier - on our first visit we tried four different ones - this time around there was only one to try.
The wine was just pretty good. The Viognier was easy and enjoyable - candied lemons. I enjoyed the Muchmore Pinot somewhat more than the Nevertell Pinot, especially given the price difference ($22 vs. $38). The Nevertell was overflavored while the Muchmore had a lighter body and blueberry compote. I wasn't expecting to try three Syrahs, but that was the order of the day. The '04 Second Sin was by far my favorite of the three - velvety with some meat on it. The other two were both quite dense, giving me the feeling that they could probably age and turn out like the older Second Sin. Finally the Late Harvest Viognier was a treat - light/bright lemons and caramelized grapefruit.
Experience: B- / Wine: B-
Longoria Wines ($10 tasting, wines $19-$48)
'13 Pinot Grigio, '12 "Cuvée Diana" Chardonnay, '11 Pinot Noir - Fe Ciega, '11 Tempranillo, '11 "Blues Cuvée" Red Blend (Cabernet Franc/Syrah/Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot/Malbec), '10 "Vino Dulce" Syrah Dessert Wine
We had a great time during our first visit to Longoria's Lompoc Wine Ghetto space. That time we visited in late fall, as grapes were fermenting, and since the tasting room was on part of the winery, we were given an up close view on the fermentation process by the tasting room attendent. We also really enjoyed the wine. I had heard that Longoria was moving into a new space in Lompoc, so I was interested in seeing their new spot. The new space is a very old space for the Lompoc community. Rhe building was constructed in 1913 to as the "JM Club" - a gathering space for employees of the Johns-Manville Company, then the Celite World Minerals Company. The space was often used for dances or parties. Many long-time residents recalled going there for weddings or other celebrations. The space had fallen on disrepair, prompting the Longorias to purchase it and spruce it up for the tasting room, adding a winemaking facility in the back. They faithfully restored old features of the building, the molding, windows, doors, fireplace, etc.. Lucky for us, Diana, Rick Longoria's wife was in the tasting room on the day of our visit, she was happy to show us around the new space and discuss the efforts they went to in bringing the place back to life.
I take it as a good sign that Longoria is establishing a space outside of the Ghetto. Rick and Diana were the first winery to open up in the Wine Ghetto. Now some 19 wineries call the Wine Ghetto home. As the area becomes more serious about wine, more wineries are going to pop up and help to renew spaces throughout the town - which I think will be positive for the economic health of Lompoc. It's a neat model to see unused buildings being adapted into wineries.
Diana guided us through our tasting. Pinot Grigio has been a mainstay of their roster since 1999. It was crisp with clear notes of lemons and pineapples, not braggy for sure, but a bit too understated. The Chardonnay showed clear signs of oak on the palate, though it was well integrated. It was serious but playful. The Pinot opened brightly with tar and inky dark jam, simple yet high quality. I dug the Tempranillo most - a quiet dusty entry lead to a macho blackberry body and then late playfulness. Definitely Cali-style but mature. The red blend was bright and had rust, but it was monochromatic. The dessert wine was smartly made, a nice balance of sweet and zip - chocolate raspberries. None of the wines knocked it out of the park, but they were thoughtful.
Experience: B+ / Wine: B
Moretti Wines ($10 tasting, wines $20-$35)
'13 "Bianchetto" White Blend (Tocai Friulano/Arneis/Malvasia Bianca), '13 Rosé (Pinot Noir), '11 Pinot Noir - Machado, '10 "Rosso Mio" (Dolcetto/Barbera/Nebbiolo), '11 Merlot
Antonio Moretti is a big booster of the Santa Rita Hills. A long-time restauranteur from Italy, he fell in love with wines from the area, and decided to move there. Eventually he opened up "Taste of Sta. Rita Hills" wine bar located in the Wine Ghetto - a shop focused on featuring wines from a variety of smaller labels that didn't have their own tasting rooms. Back in 2011 we visited Taste of Sta. Rita Hills. Antonio was an awesome host, sharing his enthusiasm for the wine of the region, even pairing cheeses and meats that paired well with the wines on the tasting list. In that first tasting, we did try a few of the wines that Antonio had made himself under the Moretti Wines label. More recently, Antonio and his wife Jeni opened up an additional tasting room in the Ghetto to display their own wines.It is a welcoming space with a little patio area so that folks can have their lunch while enjoying a glass of Moretti wine. On the day of our visit Jeni Moretti was staffing the space along with her big German Shepherd. She, like Antonio, was an amiable host. We chatted at length about her experiences in the wine world, living in a rural area, and of course Moretti wines. I was not wowed by the wines. Easy yes, interesting not as much - which is how I remember the Moretti wines that I had back in '11. The Bianchetto had lots of lemon lime and late stonefruit. The Rosé was pretty with strawberries, and slightly sweet. For me, the Pinot Noir had a big flavorful entry and too much of a mainstream profile. The red blend followed suit - big bright fruit entry with a jammy acid kick. I enjoyed the Merlot most, thanks to its tobacco/chocolate characteristics, which added depth to the fruit notes.
Experience: B / Wine: C+
It's nice to be able to revisit. My opinion of Cold Heaven was confirmed - pretty good wine with a tasting room that lacks organization. Longoria is a solid institution in the region, with solidly made wine. I and am very happy to see how they are revitalizing Lompoc with their new tasting room. And Moretti has great customer service and simple, flavorful wines.
What was fun about this visit was the conversations. At both Longoria and Moretti we were able to have long talks with the matriarchs of the wineries. Owning a winery is an exercise in passion and frustration, and both Diana and Jeni were calm yet passionate people. I'm certain that I wouldn't be able to be as cool as they are if the wine world was my career.
August '14 Santa Barbara Trip - Knocking Their Socks Off
For years I've been haranguing old friends who live in Northern California to come down to Santa Barbara to enjoy the wine country. Finally they succumbed to my demands. In choosing which wineries should go, I wanted to show them my favorite haunts. Of course a number of places that I dig are in the Wine Ghetto, so Lompoc was on the list. Lucky Ken Brown, Lafond and Presqu'ile are on the west side of the valley as well, so we didn't have to spend much time driving across the region.
Lafond Winery and Vineyards ($10 tasting, wines $20-$48)
'12 Riesling, '12 Stainless Steel Estate Chardonnay, '11 Pinot Noir, '10 Pinot Noir - Arita Hills Vineyard, '11 Syrah, '10 Estate Syrah
We took scenic Santa Rosa Road from Lompoc first thing in the morning, and wound along the road to get to Lafond. On my first and prior visit to Lafond, the front tasting room was crowded with patrons, but the wine manufacturing floor was being used for tasting as well, and one of the best tasting room employees I've met to this day - Diane - took great care of us. This time around, the place wasn't as crowded, the back area was getting prepped for a wedding, and Diane was nowhere to be found. This time around our visit was more pedestrian. The staff were perfectly nice - the zing was gone though. Regardless of our individual experience, Lafond is the oldest established winery in the region, opening in 1962. The next winery to open was in 1972. Given that, they are dependable and confident.
I found the wines to embrace that same quality, though also a bit mainstream. The Riesling showed some nice flavors - peach, machine, leaves - but too crisp on the back end. Stainless Steel Chardonnays are become more popular, and I think that's a good thing. This one was nicely crisp and interesting. Of the two Pinots, I enjoyed the Santa Rita Hills blend more than the Arita Hills Vineyard designate - both were fruity, but the blend was more approachable, the designate too juicy. Perhaps some aging would change my preference. I enjoyed the Estate Syrah more, but both were a bit to heavy for my tastes.
On both the experience and the wine, I wasn't quite as captivated with Lafond as I was on my first visit. It's still a high quality place, and probably will be for another fifty years.
Experience: B / Wines: B
Ken Brown Wines ($10 tasting, wines $35-$60)
'12 Chardonnay - Nielson Vineyard, '12 Pinot Noir, '11 Pinot Noir - Santa Rita Hills, '11 Pinot Noir - Garey Vineyard, '10 Pinot Noir - Rancho La Viña Vineyard, '11 Syrah - Watch Hill Vineyard
Ken Brown's covered a lot of ground over the past 35 years. He was the founding winemaker at Zaca Mesa Winery - one of the first wineries to open in the area, and still one of the largest. In 1984, he established Byron (Byron is his first name). Byron was an extremely successful label, eventually being bought out by Robert Mondavi, and then Kendall Jackson. After leaving both of those enterprises, he still found himself a very busy man - consulting and mentoring other wineries throughout the region. But he still had a hankering for making is own wine. And for that many are thankful. Ken Brown Wines are some of the most solid in the area. He's best known for his Pinots and Chardonnays, but also puts out Syrahs.
This was our third visit to Ken Brown over the past few years. The last two visits were in an appointment only space - the new space is just down the street and has regular hours for folks to drop in for tastings. The new spot was quite attractive - open with lots of wood features. I was curious about staff, the appointment visits were always with Ken and his wife Deb, who were very welcoming and of course knowledgeable. The staff at the new place were extremely competent and quite friendly. They also recommended the new restaurant in Buellton - Industrial Eats - which was amazing.
As usual the wine was great. The Chardonnay was showy, a bit sticky, and well balanced. The fun thing about visiting the godfather of Pinot is trying lots of Pinots. On this visit, all four that we tried were great. The SBC was easy and pleasing. The SRH was smooth and complex - elements of plum and thyme. The Garey Vineyard was my favorite - wood bark and big acid - seriously balanced and just plain serious. The Rancho La Viña was also very enjoyable - intricate, lengthy and fruity. Finally the Syrah - nice notes of savory preserves and mushrooms - though it was a bit binary.
Experience: A- / Wines: B+
Piedrasassi Winery ($10 tasting, wines $18-$42)
'13 "Light Summer Red" Carbonic Sangiovese, '11 "White Wine" (Albariño/Sauvignon Blanc), Lompoc Wine Company '12 Pinot Noir, '10 Syrah
Piedrasassi is one of the most exciting places to visit in the Wine Ghetto. It's the the most stylish - even though they've redecorated three times in the past two years. They bake bread that they sell at the local farmers market and share samples with the tasting. And the wine is unique. Piedrasassi is the personal wine label of Sashi Moorman, winemaker extraordinaire for the region - he also makes wine for Stolpman and Sandhi.
The redecorated space was great fun. A big wraparound bar and lots of tile. The staff person there was tremendously friendly, and even though things got a bit hectic due to a malfunction with their credit card machine, she was cool and on top of things.
I was a little concerned that the wine would be too avant garde for my friends, but it all went over well with them. The Carbonic Sangiovese was good times - chewy with lots of acid, apricot and plum skins. Stolpman is doing a Carbonic Sangio as well - both are good, but Stolpman's is slightly more mainstream. I enjoyed the White Wine thoroughly, it was macho but also had sweetness. The Pinot was full-flavored yet simple, nothing to plant a flag to. As usual the Syrah was great - very full flavored, well-balanced, almost aggressive in it's youthfulness.
Experience: B+ / Wines: B+
Clos Pepe Estate ($0 tour, wines $20-$59)
Axis Munde '13 Rosé (Mourvèdre/Grenache), '12 "Homage to Chablis" Chardonnay, '12 "Barrel Fermented" Chardonnay, Axis Munde '12 Grenache/Syrah, '11 Pinot Noir, '09 Pinot Noir, '10 Pinot Noir
Almost all wineries are character-driven enterprises - the wine emulate their leadership - Stolpman is calm and friendly, Zotovich is classy, Sarloos is quirky, Ampelos is boisterious. Wes Hagen of Clos Pepe may be the biggest character in the area. No one that I've interacted with in the Santa Barbara wine community is more effusive, nerdy, and instructive as him. The tours that he leads at Clos Pepe are bar none. We've done the tour once before, and that time it was just our small group of four. This time around he had a huge group, and he held court. During the tour, Wes connected wine to a wide range of human history - the formation of society, the creation of philosophy, medicine, politics, and lots of other stuff. During the tasting in the beautiful Pepe home, Wes gave an informal lessen on wine pairing and general sommelier concepts.
The tasting was accompanied by warmed baguette and various cheeses (one of these f'ing days I need to figure out how to get over my lactose issues and enjoy some damn cheese). Wes hovered around the room, introducing the various wines - telling stories to accompany each. As on my first visit, the wine was superb. The Rosé was a savory blend of strawberries and watercress, structured by strong acid. The "Homage to Chablis" showed a fun interplay between acid and calm fruit - it was subtle and attractive. The "Barrel Fermented" Chard was definitely more mouth-filling with a cute maple syrup note, though it retained it's minerality. The three Pinots were all delicious, and definitely showed individualized characteristics. The '11 showed fruit, but remained slight. The '09 was more aggressive on the opening and had a good amount of refined fruit. The '10 was very upfront and boisterous. All in all, a profound wine geek's experience.
Experience: A+ / Wine: A
Presqu'ile Winery (member tasting, wines $18-$48)
'13 Sauvignon Blanc, '12 Chardonnay, '13 Rosé (Pinot Noir), '12 Estate Pinot Noir, '12 Pinot Noir - Steiner Vineyard
Presqu'ile completely blew me away on my first visit - which was not to long after they had opened their estate winery for tastings. I thought that the wine was confident and clear, the staff intelligent, and the location austere and attractive. One thing that I had noted at the time was that the winery was really gearing itself toward exclusivity. Based on my recommendation, a friend who frequents the area for work went to Presqu'ile. He liked it so much that he became a member. So on this visit, I was able to partake in the exclusivity with my member friend - the member's only patio, the extra tasting, etc. As Presqu'ile grows, I think that the exclusivity aspect taints the experience for me. Folks that are attracted to exclusive access are not people that I enjoy being around.
Regardless, the property is gorgeous. The architecture is the most exciting that I've experienced in the area - modern and clever. We tasted our wine on the member's only back patio - trendy outdoor furniture abound. The patio had a bar to sidle up when we were ready to progress through the wine list - for the most part we sat around our table and chatted or played rousing games of foosball.
The Sauvignon Blanc was clean with a hint of jalapeños. The Chardonnay was a bit over-flavored. I enjoyed the '12 Pinot, it had a lot of funky flavors - green and black olives, and was high in tannins. The Steiner Vineyard Pinot Noir was extremely flavorful, bordering on over-extracted, but still a very enjoyable drink. The wines were all high on the flavor-scale, a bit to much collectively.
Experience: B- / Wine: B
Well it worked, my friends were thoroughly impressed by the region. Specifically Clos Pepe, Ken Brown and Stolpman (which I opted to not review since I visit it so frequently) were the biggest hits, though all were enjoyed. It was a weekend of catching up with great friends and superb wine. These friends are important to me, so to be able to spend a relaxing weekend of epicurean pursuits with them was a boon.
Lafond Winery and Vineyards ($10 tasting, wines $20-$48)
'12 Riesling, '12 Stainless Steel Estate Chardonnay, '11 Pinot Noir, '10 Pinot Noir - Arita Hills Vineyard, '11 Syrah, '10 Estate Syrah
We took scenic Santa Rosa Road from Lompoc first thing in the morning, and wound along the road to get to Lafond. On my first and prior visit to Lafond, the front tasting room was crowded with patrons, but the wine manufacturing floor was being used for tasting as well, and one of the best tasting room employees I've met to this day - Diane - took great care of us. This time around, the place wasn't as crowded, the back area was getting prepped for a wedding, and Diane was nowhere to be found. This time around our visit was more pedestrian. The staff were perfectly nice - the zing was gone though. Regardless of our individual experience, Lafond is the oldest established winery in the region, opening in 1962. The next winery to open was in 1972. Given that, they are dependable and confident.I found the wines to embrace that same quality, though also a bit mainstream. The Riesling showed some nice flavors - peach, machine, leaves - but too crisp on the back end. Stainless Steel Chardonnays are become more popular, and I think that's a good thing. This one was nicely crisp and interesting. Of the two Pinots, I enjoyed the Santa Rita Hills blend more than the Arita Hills Vineyard designate - both were fruity, but the blend was more approachable, the designate too juicy. Perhaps some aging would change my preference. I enjoyed the Estate Syrah more, but both were a bit to heavy for my tastes.
On both the experience and the wine, I wasn't quite as captivated with Lafond as I was on my first visit. It's still a high quality place, and probably will be for another fifty years.
Experience: B / Wines: B
Ken Brown Wines ($10 tasting, wines $35-$60)
'12 Chardonnay - Nielson Vineyard, '12 Pinot Noir, '11 Pinot Noir - Santa Rita Hills, '11 Pinot Noir - Garey Vineyard, '10 Pinot Noir - Rancho La Viña Vineyard, '11 Syrah - Watch Hill Vineyard
Ken Brown's covered a lot of ground over the past 35 years. He was the founding winemaker at Zaca Mesa Winery - one of the first wineries to open in the area, and still one of the largest. In 1984, he established Byron (Byron is his first name). Byron was an extremely successful label, eventually being bought out by Robert Mondavi, and then Kendall Jackson. After leaving both of those enterprises, he still found himself a very busy man - consulting and mentoring other wineries throughout the region. But he still had a hankering for making is own wine. And for that many are thankful. Ken Brown Wines are some of the most solid in the area. He's best known for his Pinots and Chardonnays, but also puts out Syrahs.
This was our third visit to Ken Brown over the past few years. The last two visits were in an appointment only space - the new space is just down the street and has regular hours for folks to drop in for tastings. The new spot was quite attractive - open with lots of wood features. I was curious about staff, the appointment visits were always with Ken and his wife Deb, who were very welcoming and of course knowledgeable. The staff at the new place were extremely competent and quite friendly. They also recommended the new restaurant in Buellton - Industrial Eats - which was amazing.
As usual the wine was great. The Chardonnay was showy, a bit sticky, and well balanced. The fun thing about visiting the godfather of Pinot is trying lots of Pinots. On this visit, all four that we tried were great. The SBC was easy and pleasing. The SRH was smooth and complex - elements of plum and thyme. The Garey Vineyard was my favorite - wood bark and big acid - seriously balanced and just plain serious. The Rancho La Viña was also very enjoyable - intricate, lengthy and fruity. Finally the Syrah - nice notes of savory preserves and mushrooms - though it was a bit binary.
Experience: A- / Wines: B+
Piedrasassi Winery ($10 tasting, wines $18-$42)
'13 "Light Summer Red" Carbonic Sangiovese, '11 "White Wine" (Albariño/Sauvignon Blanc), Lompoc Wine Company '12 Pinot Noir, '10 Syrah
Piedrasassi is one of the most exciting places to visit in the Wine Ghetto. It's the the most stylish - even though they've redecorated three times in the past two years. They bake bread that they sell at the local farmers market and share samples with the tasting. And the wine is unique. Piedrasassi is the personal wine label of Sashi Moorman, winemaker extraordinaire for the region - he also makes wine for Stolpman and Sandhi.
The redecorated space was great fun. A big wraparound bar and lots of tile. The staff person there was tremendously friendly, and even though things got a bit hectic due to a malfunction with their credit card machine, she was cool and on top of things.
I was a little concerned that the wine would be too avant garde for my friends, but it all went over well with them. The Carbonic Sangiovese was good times - chewy with lots of acid, apricot and plum skins. Stolpman is doing a Carbonic Sangio as well - both are good, but Stolpman's is slightly more mainstream. I enjoyed the White Wine thoroughly, it was macho but also had sweetness. The Pinot was full-flavored yet simple, nothing to plant a flag to. As usual the Syrah was great - very full flavored, well-balanced, almost aggressive in it's youthfulness.
Experience: B+ / Wines: B+
Clos Pepe Estate ($0 tour, wines $20-$59)
Axis Munde '13 Rosé (Mourvèdre/Grenache), '12 "Homage to Chablis" Chardonnay, '12 "Barrel Fermented" Chardonnay, Axis Munde '12 Grenache/Syrah, '11 Pinot Noir, '09 Pinot Noir, '10 Pinot Noir
Almost all wineries are character-driven enterprises - the wine emulate their leadership - Stolpman is calm and friendly, Zotovich is classy, Sarloos is quirky, Ampelos is boisterious. Wes Hagen of Clos Pepe may be the biggest character in the area. No one that I've interacted with in the Santa Barbara wine community is more effusive, nerdy, and instructive as him. The tours that he leads at Clos Pepe are bar none. We've done the tour once before, and that time it was just our small group of four. This time around he had a huge group, and he held court. During the tour, Wes connected wine to a wide range of human history - the formation of society, the creation of philosophy, medicine, politics, and lots of other stuff. During the tasting in the beautiful Pepe home, Wes gave an informal lessen on wine pairing and general sommelier concepts.The tasting was accompanied by warmed baguette and various cheeses (one of these f'ing days I need to figure out how to get over my lactose issues and enjoy some damn cheese). Wes hovered around the room, introducing the various wines - telling stories to accompany each. As on my first visit, the wine was superb. The Rosé was a savory blend of strawberries and watercress, structured by strong acid. The "Homage to Chablis" showed a fun interplay between acid and calm fruit - it was subtle and attractive. The "Barrel Fermented" Chard was definitely more mouth-filling with a cute maple syrup note, though it retained it's minerality. The three Pinots were all delicious, and definitely showed individualized characteristics. The '11 showed fruit, but remained slight. The '09 was more aggressive on the opening and had a good amount of refined fruit. The '10 was very upfront and boisterous. All in all, a profound wine geek's experience. Experience: A+ / Wine: A
Presqu'ile Winery (member tasting, wines $18-$48)
'13 Sauvignon Blanc, '12 Chardonnay, '13 Rosé (Pinot Noir), '12 Estate Pinot Noir, '12 Pinot Noir - Steiner Vineyard
Presqu'ile completely blew me away on my first visit - which was not to long after they had opened their estate winery for tastings. I thought that the wine was confident and clear, the staff intelligent, and the location austere and attractive. One thing that I had noted at the time was that the winery was really gearing itself toward exclusivity. Based on my recommendation, a friend who frequents the area for work went to Presqu'ile. He liked it so much that he became a member. So on this visit, I was able to partake in the exclusivity with my member friend - the member's only patio, the extra tasting, etc. As Presqu'ile grows, I think that the exclusivity aspect taints the experience for me. Folks that are attracted to exclusive access are not people that I enjoy being around. Regardless, the property is gorgeous. The architecture is the most exciting that I've experienced in the area - modern and clever. We tasted our wine on the member's only back patio - trendy outdoor furniture abound. The patio had a bar to sidle up when we were ready to progress through the wine list - for the most part we sat around our table and chatted or played rousing games of foosball.
The Sauvignon Blanc was clean with a hint of jalapeños. The Chardonnay was a bit over-flavored. I enjoyed the '12 Pinot, it had a lot of funky flavors - green and black olives, and was high in tannins. The Steiner Vineyard Pinot Noir was extremely flavorful, bordering on over-extracted, but still a very enjoyable drink. The wines were all high on the flavor-scale, a bit to much collectively.
Experience: B- / Wine: B
Well it worked, my friends were thoroughly impressed by the region. Specifically Clos Pepe, Ken Brown and Stolpman (which I opted to not review since I visit it so frequently) were the biggest hits, though all were enjoyed. It was a weekend of catching up with great friends and superb wine. These friends are important to me, so to be able to spend a relaxing weekend of epicurean pursuits with them was a boon.
May '14 Santa Barbara Trip - Pretty Doesn't Mean Good
One day trips is a clever way to have Santa Barbara trips, lighter on the costs and time commitment, but they are tiring. Since we became members of Martian Ranch after having such a kick-ass experience during our March trip, we drove up this time for their pick up party. Our friends were up in the area as well, so we were able to visit Tyler and Stolpman (once again opting not to review since we're huge fans and always there) with them. I was also compelled to try out Rusack based on recommendations from folks we'd met along the away.
Tyler Winery ($15 tasting, wines $36-$55)
'12 Chardonnay, '12 Chardonnay - Dierberg, '12 Pinot Noir, '12 Pinot Noir - Bien Nacido
Once again we had brought another couple of friends to the Ghetto, and wanted to show off the quality we visited six months prior. I was also curious to try Tyler again, to see if my initial experience was emblematic or a one-off. Once again the tasting room was chilly and stark, though this time around it appeared that the construction was on hiatus. There was a different tasting room person this time around, which was a small bit of a relief - being distant is better than snotty. Just the same we didn't feel comfortable during the tasting, and didn't feel like lingering around after, we tasted the four wines and then hurried out.
During our previous visit, all of the wines that we tried were from the 2011 vintage. This time around, all 2012s. I'm not sure if this tasting was completely affected by the youth of the wines, or if the 2012 vintage is sub-par to 2011, but I was not as enamored with the wines, not nearly. Throughout the tasting, I wrote notes like: "not pretty right now," "stark," "not as poetic as I remember," and "intense as hell." The wine wasn't bad, they was just really compact. Certainly they were a quality product. I'm guessing that they all just need time to stretch their legs. For sure it would be preferable if the winery were to be pouring the vintages of the wines that are ready to be tasted. Sure the wine can and should be held for five to ten years, but pour it when it's going to be enjoyable, not challenging. With that said, on the Chardonnays, I prefered the Dierberg, it was a bit more sunny than the Santa Barbara County bottling. The Bien Nacido Pinot Noir was too crazy dense for me, I found the Santa Barbara County Pinot to be pretty exciting with notes of stomped flowers and tar juice.
Experience: B- / Wines B
Rusack Vineyards ($12 tasting, wines $14-$45)
'11 Chardonnay - Catalina Island, '13 Rosé (Syrah/Sangiovese/Pinot Noir), '12 Pinot Noir, '12 Pinot Noir - Solomon Hills, '12 Sangiovese, '11 "Soul of the Vine" Dessert Wine (Sémillon)
Ballard Canyon is the newest AVA in the region, and is home to some superstar wines - Stolpman, Beckman, super-cult winery Jonata, and Larner, not to mention being used by many other wineries that are in the general area.. The region is known for it's Rhones, especially Syrah. Rusack is one of the older wineries in the area, and is the only one with a tasting room on scenic Ballard Canyon Road. It's a beautiful drive along the canyon road. Driving from the south, the road is initially tight and windy, but opens up to a bucolic valley. The Rusack property sits at the ideal open spot of the valley. The winery has made ideal use of this setting with more than ample patio and garden seating. I get the feeling that Rusack's setting is well known, since the place was hopping with a wide variety of patrons - older yuppies, locals, bikers, and more. The tasting room counter was packed, but there was plenty of good seating outside. Allison Rusack, co-founder with her husband Geoff, is part of the well-heeled Wrigley family. The progenitor of the empire, William Wrigley Jr., was the major developer of Santa Catalina Island, a fun tourist destination just off the coast from Los Angeles. The family still has strong ties to the island, through a conservancy. This explains why Rusack Vineyards has a vineyard on Catalina.
I was not enthused by the quality of the wine itself. Each had nice elements, but the Chardonnay and Rosé suffered from being too sharp, and the reds were too fruity and hot. The Sangiovese had nice earthiness and acid, but fell apart late. The dessert wine was enjoyable, though simple.
Experience: B / Wines C+
Both visits on this trip were a let down. We had enjoyed Tyler so much on our first visit, I was hopeful they would knock it out of the park again, and impress our friends. And I had been looking forward to Rusack for a long time, but the wine didn't really stand out for me. I'll still hold out hope for Tyler. It's a critical darling, and even if the wines weren't pretty, they had authenticity.
Tyler Winery ($15 tasting, wines $36-$55)
'12 Chardonnay, '12 Chardonnay - Dierberg, '12 Pinot Noir, '12 Pinot Noir - Bien Nacido
During our previous visit, all of the wines that we tried were from the 2011 vintage. This time around, all 2012s. I'm not sure if this tasting was completely affected by the youth of the wines, or if the 2012 vintage is sub-par to 2011, but I was not as enamored with the wines, not nearly. Throughout the tasting, I wrote notes like: "not pretty right now," "stark," "not as poetic as I remember," and "intense as hell." The wine wasn't bad, they was just really compact. Certainly they were a quality product. I'm guessing that they all just need time to stretch their legs. For sure it would be preferable if the winery were to be pouring the vintages of the wines that are ready to be tasted. Sure the wine can and should be held for five to ten years, but pour it when it's going to be enjoyable, not challenging. With that said, on the Chardonnays, I prefered the Dierberg, it was a bit more sunny than the Santa Barbara County bottling. The Bien Nacido Pinot Noir was too crazy dense for me, I found the Santa Barbara County Pinot to be pretty exciting with notes of stomped flowers and tar juice.
Experience: B- / Wines B
Rusack Vineyards ($12 tasting, wines $14-$45)
'11 Chardonnay - Catalina Island, '13 Rosé (Syrah/Sangiovese/Pinot Noir), '12 Pinot Noir, '12 Pinot Noir - Solomon Hills, '12 Sangiovese, '11 "Soul of the Vine" Dessert Wine (Sémillon)
Ballard Canyon is the newest AVA in the region, and is home to some superstar wines - Stolpman, Beckman, super-cult winery Jonata, and Larner, not to mention being used by many other wineries that are in the general area.. The region is known for it's Rhones, especially Syrah. Rusack is one of the older wineries in the area, and is the only one with a tasting room on scenic Ballard Canyon Road. It's a beautiful drive along the canyon road. Driving from the south, the road is initially tight and windy, but opens up to a bucolic valley. The Rusack property sits at the ideal open spot of the valley. The winery has made ideal use of this setting with more than ample patio and garden seating. I get the feeling that Rusack's setting is well known, since the place was hopping with a wide variety of patrons - older yuppies, locals, bikers, and more. The tasting room counter was packed, but there was plenty of good seating outside. Allison Rusack, co-founder with her husband Geoff, is part of the well-heeled Wrigley family. The progenitor of the empire, William Wrigley Jr., was the major developer of Santa Catalina Island, a fun tourist destination just off the coast from Los Angeles. The family still has strong ties to the island, through a conservancy. This explains why Rusack Vineyards has a vineyard on Catalina. I was not enthused by the quality of the wine itself. Each had nice elements, but the Chardonnay and Rosé suffered from being too sharp, and the reds were too fruity and hot. The Sangiovese had nice earthiness and acid, but fell apart late. The dessert wine was enjoyable, though simple.Experience: B / Wines C+
Both visits on this trip were a let down. We had enjoyed Tyler so much on our first visit, I was hopeful they would knock it out of the park again, and impress our friends. And I had been looking forward to Rusack for a long time, but the wine didn't really stand out for me. I'll still hold out hope for Tyler. It's a critical darling, and even if the wines weren't pretty, they had authenticity.
March '14 Santa Barbara Trip - A Three Hour Tour
I've done it again, I've cajoled friends into a wine weekend trip. A group of six intrepid travelers joined me for a quick weekend jaunt. Initially the plan was to get into the area early enough on Friday to hit up a few places in Lompoc, but traffic waylaid those plans. Actually the whole trip was beset by happy delays. In addition to the below reviews, we visited a few of our favorites - Stolpman and Samsara. However, since we've visited those places so often and have rated them highly on multiple occasions, I decided to skip reviewing them.
AVA Santa Barbara ($10 tasting, wines $26-$32)
'12 Sauvignon Blanc - Ballard Canyon, '12 Viognier - Ballard Canyon, '10 Chardonnay - Santa Maria, '12 White Blend (Sauvignon Blanc/Viognier), '12 Rosé (Grenache), '10 Pinot Noir - Santa Maria, '12 Cabernet Franc - Santa Ynez Valley
The Funk Zone is becoming quite the clutch stop for us when we're interested in doing a tasting and can't quite make it all the way up the road to Santa Barbara wine country. In this instance, we hit the road a bit late on a Friday and got stuck in weekend getaway traffic. The plan was to get up to Lompoc by late afternoon, and check out a few places, but the 101 decided to nix that idea for us. Instead we found ourselves rolling through downtown Santa Barbara with just enough time to pop into a Funk Zone tasting room.
AVA is a side project for Seth Kunin, his primary label Kunin has been around for over fifteen years. His goal with AVA is to highlight the variety of terrior that exists in the Santa Barbara region. To accomplish that he makes specific varietals that are emblematic of each region - Pinot Noir and Chardonnay from the cooler Sta. Rita Hills, Syrah and other Rhones from the moderate Ballard Canyon, and Cabernet / Bordeaux wines from the warm Happy Canyon AVA. It's a fun concept, and the tasting room backs it up with a totally bad ass mural.
The wines were a bit of a mixed bag. It's hard to argue that they were emblematic of the terrior, considering that the wines were all a bit dense - hinting at barrel aging, and some straight up showed oak in their nose or flavor profile. I'm not saying that oak shouldn't be used, but when a winery is trying to show regional typicity, it should take a low-interventionist approach. Oak or not, I enjoyed the Viognier quite a bit. The Sauvignon Blanc and the Chardonnay had promising variety but were both too cluttered. The White Blend and the Rosé were on tap - the Rosé was okay, but the white was nearly undrinkable - too stark and candied. The Pinot Noir was my favorite - it hit on all the right notes. The Cab Franc was a bit of an experience - roasted squash, super dense, not to be consumed without a hearty meal to accompany it.
Experience: B / Wines: C+
Martian Ranch & Vineyard ($10 tasting, wines $20-$35)
'13 Rosé (Syrah), '12 Albariño, '12 Chenin Blanc, '12 Grenache Blanc, '12 Viognier, '12 Mourvèdre, '11 Grenache Noir, '12 Grenache Noir, '12 Cabernet Franc, '11 "Red Shift" Syrah, '11 "Mystery" Syrah, '11 Tempranillo,
At the beginning of the day, we had a plan: Hit up Martian Ranch in the morning for an hour or so, then head down to Los Olivos for a few visits, then roll back over to Lompoc to hang out in the Ghetto for a few more hours. Perhaps a bit ambitious, but not unreasonable. The plan was all shot to hell the minute we got to Martian Ranch. Right off the bat they were super accommodating. Wanna bring your dog in? Sure go right ahead. Wanna try every wine on our long ass list? Go for it. Super duper accommodating. So much so, that when the afore mentioned dog pissed in the tasting room, the owner - Nan - quietly grabbed paper towels and cleaned it up before we even noticed that it had happened. Somehow that endeared Nan to us, and she asked if we wanted to check out the winery and vineyard. So we filled our glasses with Viognier, and hopped into the back of the ranch truck. Martian Ranch is a new venture, and Nan was very excited to share it with folks. It is a stunning property with an immense open space, bordered by verdant hills. Nan said that part of the appeal of having a winery was having a big space all to yourself. I'm not rich as hell, so I don't think about a concepts like that, but in looking out over her whole property, I can see the appeal. She's also proud of their biodynamic focus, which I can get behind. After a long meandering conversation we headed back to the tasting room and drank a lot more wine.
In addition to being biodynamic, all the wines are estate grown. The Rosé and Albariño were simple. The Chenin Blanc had an interesting herb characteristic - it is aged in acacia wood barrels. The Viognier was my favorite of the whites, bright, layered, slight oak. The reds were more interesting than the whites in general - some juiciness, some fun notes (twigs, funk, meat), though not especially complex or lengthy. In general, the wine quality is just pretty good, dependably solid, but nothing to right poetry about. I did appreciate that their wines are reasonably priced for the region, especially the reds. It will be interesting to see how Martian Ranch develops. They definitely roll out the red (and white) carpet for their guests.
Experience: A- / Wines: B
LaMontagne Winery ($10 tasting, wines $30-$48)
'11 Pinot Blanc, '12 Pinot Blanc, '13 Rosé (Grenache/Mourvedre), '11 Pinot Noir, '11 Tempranillo
The Wine Ghetto has been blowing up. Each time we visit, there are more tasting rooms. I'm starting to think that critical mass may have been reached. To me, the marker of a trend reaching critical mass is when there are newcomers to the trend, and the quality of the product created by the newcomers (those being recent converts to the world of the product) isn't quite as good. Newcomers see the trend, recognize the momentum, and hop onto the trend. But, because they are so new and haven't been within that world for very long, their product doesn't stand up to the trend starters. In this story, the longer term Ghetto wineries are the trend starters, such as Ampelos, Samsara, Flying Goat, Fiddlehead, etc. LaMontagne is a brand new tasting room. Kim Smith entered the world of wine recently, starting to take winemaking classes in 2006. Soon after that, she attended a wine event that Wes Hagen - the winemaking badass at Clos Pepe - she asked for an opportunity to study under him, he agreed, and she was off and running. By 2009 Kim Smith was producing wine under the LaMontagne label.
I've got no authority to say it, but I think that winemakers need to be involved in the trade longer than that before they have their own labels. I guess they don't need to, but I'm going to say that the wine won't be very good after that short of a time in the industry.
Last time that we visited, the tasting room belonged to Joseph Blair Wines. Since then, Joseph Blair moved into the new wing of the Ghetto, across Chestnut Court. The room had undergone a huge decorating shift, and now a huge, old wooden bar had taken over the center of the room. Light snacks were on the table to accompany the wines. The lady in the tasting room was friendly, but not at all knowledgeable about wine.
Despite my earlier tirade, the wine was pretty good, though priced way too high for the quality. The Pinot Blancs were enjoyable, the '12 had nice baking spice, lemons and dry-roasted leaves - simple, a bit sharp. The Pinot Noir was fun to experience. The flavors were a bit sloppy, but there were very interesting characteristics - savory mushrooms, tart blackberries - nice spectrum. Finally, the Tempranillo was fine, very dense, hot, lacked all of the flavor profile you'd expect.
Experience: B- / Wine: C+
The lesson of the weekend is to allow plans to change. Even though we didn't get to our original destination on time on Friday, we were able to make a pit stop in the Funk Zone and enjoy AVA. Thank god we didn't have firm plans on Saturday, or there would have been no way we could have hung out and enjoyed the day at Martian Ranch. Each time I head up to Santa Barbara for wine tasting I feel like I need to rush, and cram in as many visits as possible. And each time, somewhere in the middle of the trip, I realize that there's no need to do so, that we're better off enjoying the journey and taking our time. Somehow I have to make that a mantra so I don't get worked up when the inevitable delays occur...
AVA Santa Barbara ($10 tasting, wines $26-$32)
'12 Sauvignon Blanc - Ballard Canyon, '12 Viognier - Ballard Canyon, '10 Chardonnay - Santa Maria, '12 White Blend (Sauvignon Blanc/Viognier), '12 Rosé (Grenache), '10 Pinot Noir - Santa Maria, '12 Cabernet Franc - Santa Ynez Valley
The Funk Zone is becoming quite the clutch stop for us when we're interested in doing a tasting and can't quite make it all the way up the road to Santa Barbara wine country. In this instance, we hit the road a bit late on a Friday and got stuck in weekend getaway traffic. The plan was to get up to Lompoc by late afternoon, and check out a few places, but the 101 decided to nix that idea for us. Instead we found ourselves rolling through downtown Santa Barbara with just enough time to pop into a Funk Zone tasting room.AVA is a side project for Seth Kunin, his primary label Kunin has been around for over fifteen years. His goal with AVA is to highlight the variety of terrior that exists in the Santa Barbara region. To accomplish that he makes specific varietals that are emblematic of each region - Pinot Noir and Chardonnay from the cooler Sta. Rita Hills, Syrah and other Rhones from the moderate Ballard Canyon, and Cabernet / Bordeaux wines from the warm Happy Canyon AVA. It's a fun concept, and the tasting room backs it up with a totally bad ass mural.
The wines were a bit of a mixed bag. It's hard to argue that they were emblematic of the terrior, considering that the wines were all a bit dense - hinting at barrel aging, and some straight up showed oak in their nose or flavor profile. I'm not saying that oak shouldn't be used, but when a winery is trying to show regional typicity, it should take a low-interventionist approach. Oak or not, I enjoyed the Viognier quite a bit. The Sauvignon Blanc and the Chardonnay had promising variety but were both too cluttered. The White Blend and the Rosé were on tap - the Rosé was okay, but the white was nearly undrinkable - too stark and candied. The Pinot Noir was my favorite - it hit on all the right notes. The Cab Franc was a bit of an experience - roasted squash, super dense, not to be consumed without a hearty meal to accompany it.
Experience: B / Wines: C+
Martian Ranch & Vineyard ($10 tasting, wines $20-$35)
'13 Rosé (Syrah), '12 Albariño, '12 Chenin Blanc, '12 Grenache Blanc, '12 Viognier, '12 Mourvèdre, '11 Grenache Noir, '12 Grenache Noir, '12 Cabernet Franc, '11 "Red Shift" Syrah, '11 "Mystery" Syrah, '11 Tempranillo,
At the beginning of the day, we had a plan: Hit up Martian Ranch in the morning for an hour or so, then head down to Los Olivos for a few visits, then roll back over to Lompoc to hang out in the Ghetto for a few more hours. Perhaps a bit ambitious, but not unreasonable. The plan was all shot to hell the minute we got to Martian Ranch. Right off the bat they were super accommodating. Wanna bring your dog in? Sure go right ahead. Wanna try every wine on our long ass list? Go for it. Super duper accommodating. So much so, that when the afore mentioned dog pissed in the tasting room, the owner - Nan - quietly grabbed paper towels and cleaned it up before we even noticed that it had happened. Somehow that endeared Nan to us, and she asked if we wanted to check out the winery and vineyard. So we filled our glasses with Viognier, and hopped into the back of the ranch truck. Martian Ranch is a new venture, and Nan was very excited to share it with folks. It is a stunning property with an immense open space, bordered by verdant hills. Nan said that part of the appeal of having a winery was having a big space all to yourself. I'm not rich as hell, so I don't think about a concepts like that, but in looking out over her whole property, I can see the appeal. She's also proud of their biodynamic focus, which I can get behind. After a long meandering conversation we headed back to the tasting room and drank a lot more wine.In addition to being biodynamic, all the wines are estate grown. The Rosé and Albariño were simple. The Chenin Blanc had an interesting herb characteristic - it is aged in acacia wood barrels. The Viognier was my favorite of the whites, bright, layered, slight oak. The reds were more interesting than the whites in general - some juiciness, some fun notes (twigs, funk, meat), though not especially complex or lengthy. In general, the wine quality is just pretty good, dependably solid, but nothing to right poetry about. I did appreciate that their wines are reasonably priced for the region, especially the reds. It will be interesting to see how Martian Ranch develops. They definitely roll out the red (and white) carpet for their guests.
Experience: A- / Wines: B
LaMontagne Winery ($10 tasting, wines $30-$48)
'11 Pinot Blanc, '12 Pinot Blanc, '13 Rosé (Grenache/Mourvedre), '11 Pinot Noir, '11 Tempranillo
The Wine Ghetto has been blowing up. Each time we visit, there are more tasting rooms. I'm starting to think that critical mass may have been reached. To me, the marker of a trend reaching critical mass is when there are newcomers to the trend, and the quality of the product created by the newcomers (those being recent converts to the world of the product) isn't quite as good. Newcomers see the trend, recognize the momentum, and hop onto the trend. But, because they are so new and haven't been within that world for very long, their product doesn't stand up to the trend starters. In this story, the longer term Ghetto wineries are the trend starters, such as Ampelos, Samsara, Flying Goat, Fiddlehead, etc. LaMontagne is a brand new tasting room. Kim Smith entered the world of wine recently, starting to take winemaking classes in 2006. Soon after that, she attended a wine event that Wes Hagen - the winemaking badass at Clos Pepe - she asked for an opportunity to study under him, he agreed, and she was off and running. By 2009 Kim Smith was producing wine under the LaMontagne label.I've got no authority to say it, but I think that winemakers need to be involved in the trade longer than that before they have their own labels. I guess they don't need to, but I'm going to say that the wine won't be very good after that short of a time in the industry.
Last time that we visited, the tasting room belonged to Joseph Blair Wines. Since then, Joseph Blair moved into the new wing of the Ghetto, across Chestnut Court. The room had undergone a huge decorating shift, and now a huge, old wooden bar had taken over the center of the room. Light snacks were on the table to accompany the wines. The lady in the tasting room was friendly, but not at all knowledgeable about wine.
Despite my earlier tirade, the wine was pretty good, though priced way too high for the quality. The Pinot Blancs were enjoyable, the '12 had nice baking spice, lemons and dry-roasted leaves - simple, a bit sharp. The Pinot Noir was fun to experience. The flavors were a bit sloppy, but there were very interesting characteristics - savory mushrooms, tart blackberries - nice spectrum. Finally, the Tempranillo was fine, very dense, hot, lacked all of the flavor profile you'd expect.
Experience: B- / Wine: C+
The lesson of the weekend is to allow plans to change. Even though we didn't get to our original destination on time on Friday, we were able to make a pit stop in the Funk Zone and enjoy AVA. Thank god we didn't have firm plans on Saturday, or there would have been no way we could have hung out and enjoyed the day at Martian Ranch. Each time I head up to Santa Barbara for wine tasting I feel like I need to rush, and cram in as many visits as possible. And each time, somewhere in the middle of the trip, I realize that there's no need to do so, that we're better off enjoying the journey and taking our time. Somehow I have to make that a mantra so I don't get worked up when the inevitable delays occur...
October '13 - Santa Barbara Trip - Sneaking Off
Weddings are a beautiful thing - especially when the weddings take place in a wine region, and you're able to slip away from the festivities to check out a few wineries. This particular wedding involved a close friend, and a handful of old friends that came into the area to be a part of the wedding. On Friday we managed to slip off with the groom for a visit to Santa Barbara's "Funk Zone" before the wedding rehearsal. On Sunday we had a pickup to make at Ampelos in the Wine Ghetto, and were accompanied by friends who'd never been wine tasting in the region before.
Municipal Winemakers ($12 tasting, wines $27-$38)
'12 Pinot Noir, '12 "Bright Red" (Grenache/Cinsault/Counoise/Syrah), '12 Counoise, '11 "Dark Red" (Syrah/Cabernet Sauvignon), '11 Grenache - Fox Family
This was the first visit that I'd made to the Funk Zone. It's in a converted industrial sector of Santa Barbara - artists, builders, restaurants, and a handful of wineries. Specifically I was interested in going to Municipal - I first heard about it from Wes Hagan when we did a tour at Clos Pepe. We were hanging out with the groom, just biding time before the wedding rehearsal so we headed over to check Municipal out.
Municipal is definitely going for a different feel, it's skewing toward a younger audience. The tasting room is in former dive shop, and they've kept some of the old signage around. They've also got a lot of funky decor - goofy paintings, mismatched chairs, re-purposed shelving, etc. It's a fun kind of silly, not an annoying needy kind of silly. The woman who attended to us in the tasting room was limited in her knowledge about the wine, but was extremely friendly and super stoked about the fact that our friend was getting married. Our visit was a bit short, we had to book on out to make sure that we didn't miss the rehearsal.
Across the board the wines had a nice organic flavor, with enjoyable vegital notes. However they were a bit simple, cluttered and at times the acid was too prevalent. The Pinot was slightly too high on the acid. The Bright Red blend was quite zippy as well - curiously a mix of two contrasting experiences: licks off of a battery and light pillows. The Counoise was fun and simple. The Dark Red Blend was very flavorful with jumpy acid. Finally the Grenache was quite sharp, overtaking other aspects.
Experience: B / Wines: B-
Piedrasassi / New Vineland Winery ($10 tasting, wines $22-$42)
'12 "P.S." White Wine - Sauvignon Blanc, '10 White White (Sauvignon Blanc/Roussanne), '12 "P.S." Rosé (Sangiovese), '12 "P.S." Syrah, '10 Syrah
Visiting the Wine Ghetto with friends that have never been before creates a tricky situation: what
wineries do you choose to take them to? There are many great options. With our friends from Chicago with us, we knew we needed to make stops at Ampelos and Stolpman to make pickups. Those two places are always good, solid choices. Since I've written positively about that places several times, I didn't write up notes for the blog. The third and final choice was a tricky one. Go to one the few places that we'd never been to that may or may not be good? Go somewhere we'd been many times already and really enjoyed, like Samsara or Jalama? Or go somewhere that we had only visited once, intrigued us on that visit, and deserved a second tasting to see if it held up? Obviously that's the choice that we went with.
Since our last visit almost two years to Piedrasassi ago, they're now making bread in the back of the building. Since we entered from the back, the baker pointed us through to the tasting room in the front, but also offered some bread samples. Melissa Sorongon was handling the pouring duties, so it was neat to get her input on how she and Sashi Moorman (her husband and winemaker for Stolpman and Sandhi) made choices regarding the Piedrasassi wines. Early on in the tasting we were able to have an in depth discussion about the wines and breads that we were served, but soon a few large groups arrived, and the room became much more loud and tight.
Regardless the wines were very enjoyable. The "P.S." wines are more budget focused, but stand up on their own merits. The P.S. White had a very nice profile - crisp with pineapples, a smooth ending, medium bodied. The Piedrasassi White was very reminiscent of Stolpman's flagship white - L'Avion - with a bit more kick. The Rosé was made with carbonic maceration, weighty compared to other rosés, with very crisp acid and strawberries. The P.S. Syrah was a kick in the pants, big ass black pepper and green vegetables that calmed down really nicely midway through to the end. It was a great price so we picked up a few bottles. Randomly I was at our favorite wine shop here in LA a few weeks later and there was a dude buying a half case of the P.S. Syrah. I chatted with him for a bit about how great the wine was, and we basically convinced each other to split up the last four bottles that the store had left in stock. The Piedrasassi Syrah was a little bit more of a quiet storm compared to the P.S. It's pepper and acid was neatly restrained, but it had a lot of juice. Probably one to open a while before pouring to allow it to breathe.
Experience: B+ / Wines: B+
We're getting quite sneaky at integrating winery visits into our trips. This time around our visits were nice little breaks from the bigger event of the weekend. It was nice to break free during the hubbub to take the groom out. It was even nicer to share our new obsession with old friends on a lazy Sunday.
Municipal Winemakers ($12 tasting, wines $27-$38)
'12 Pinot Noir, '12 "Bright Red" (Grenache/Cinsault/Counoise/Syrah), '12 Counoise, '11 "Dark Red" (Syrah/Cabernet Sauvignon), '11 Grenache - Fox Family
This was the first visit that I'd made to the Funk Zone. It's in a converted industrial sector of Santa Barbara - artists, builders, restaurants, and a handful of wineries. Specifically I was interested in going to Municipal - I first heard about it from Wes Hagan when we did a tour at Clos Pepe. We were hanging out with the groom, just biding time before the wedding rehearsal so we headed over to check Municipal out. Municipal is definitely going for a different feel, it's skewing toward a younger audience. The tasting room is in former dive shop, and they've kept some of the old signage around. They've also got a lot of funky decor - goofy paintings, mismatched chairs, re-purposed shelving, etc. It's a fun kind of silly, not an annoying needy kind of silly. The woman who attended to us in the tasting room was limited in her knowledge about the wine, but was extremely friendly and super stoked about the fact that our friend was getting married. Our visit was a bit short, we had to book on out to make sure that we didn't miss the rehearsal.
Across the board the wines had a nice organic flavor, with enjoyable vegital notes. However they were a bit simple, cluttered and at times the acid was too prevalent. The Pinot was slightly too high on the acid. The Bright Red blend was quite zippy as well - curiously a mix of two contrasting experiences: licks off of a battery and light pillows. The Counoise was fun and simple. The Dark Red Blend was very flavorful with jumpy acid. Finally the Grenache was quite sharp, overtaking other aspects.
Experience: B / Wines: B-
Piedrasassi / New Vineland Winery ($10 tasting, wines $22-$42)
'12 "P.S." White Wine - Sauvignon Blanc, '10 White White (Sauvignon Blanc/Roussanne), '12 "P.S." Rosé (Sangiovese), '12 "P.S." Syrah, '10 Syrah
Visiting the Wine Ghetto with friends that have never been before creates a tricky situation: what wineries do you choose to take them to? There are many great options. With our friends from Chicago with us, we knew we needed to make stops at Ampelos and Stolpman to make pickups. Those two places are always good, solid choices. Since I've written positively about that places several times, I didn't write up notes for the blog. The third and final choice was a tricky one. Go to one the few places that we'd never been to that may or may not be good? Go somewhere we'd been many times already and really enjoyed, like Samsara or Jalama? Or go somewhere that we had only visited once, intrigued us on that visit, and deserved a second tasting to see if it held up? Obviously that's the choice that we went with.
Since our last visit almost two years to Piedrasassi ago, they're now making bread in the back of the building. Since we entered from the back, the baker pointed us through to the tasting room in the front, but also offered some bread samples. Melissa Sorongon was handling the pouring duties, so it was neat to get her input on how she and Sashi Moorman (her husband and winemaker for Stolpman and Sandhi) made choices regarding the Piedrasassi wines. Early on in the tasting we were able to have an in depth discussion about the wines and breads that we were served, but soon a few large groups arrived, and the room became much more loud and tight.
Regardless the wines were very enjoyable. The "P.S." wines are more budget focused, but stand up on their own merits. The P.S. White had a very nice profile - crisp with pineapples, a smooth ending, medium bodied. The Piedrasassi White was very reminiscent of Stolpman's flagship white - L'Avion - with a bit more kick. The Rosé was made with carbonic maceration, weighty compared to other rosés, with very crisp acid and strawberries. The P.S. Syrah was a kick in the pants, big ass black pepper and green vegetables that calmed down really nicely midway through to the end. It was a great price so we picked up a few bottles. Randomly I was at our favorite wine shop here in LA a few weeks later and there was a dude buying a half case of the P.S. Syrah. I chatted with him for a bit about how great the wine was, and we basically convinced each other to split up the last four bottles that the store had left in stock. The Piedrasassi Syrah was a little bit more of a quiet storm compared to the P.S. It's pepper and acid was neatly restrained, but it had a lot of juice. Probably one to open a while before pouring to allow it to breathe.
Experience: B+ / Wines: B+
We're getting quite sneaky at integrating winery visits into our trips. This time around our visits were nice little breaks from the bigger event of the weekend. It was nice to break free during the hubbub to take the groom out. It was even nicer to share our new obsession with old friends on a lazy Sunday.
August '13 Santa Barbara Trip - Second Chances
It's become an important holiday in our household to head up to Santa Barbara the first weekend of August for Ampelos' annual member appreciation party. They throw a hell of a party - and it's an excuse to have another wine weekend, quickly following our July trip. This time around we planned to check out a winery before and the party on Saturday and then another after the party, then to hit up a few places in Lompoc on Sunday. Saturday (Santa Rosa Road & Highway 246)
Sanford Winery & Vineyards ($20 "Winemakers Flight" tasting, wines $30 - $80)
'09 Chardonnay - La Rinconada, '09 Chardonnay - La Entrada, '10 Viognier - Sanford & Benedict, '09 "Fleur de Domaine" (Viognier/Roussanne), '10 Pinot Noir - La Rinconada, '10 Pinot Noir - Sanford & Benedict, '09 Pinot Noir - Vista Al Rio
It being a Saturday, there were plenty of folks sidled up to the bar. As much I wanted to hate Sanford, I really appreciated how intelligent their staff was, and I felt that their wine was well made. The white wines didn't light my fire, but they were solid - the Viognier being the one that I enjoyed the most. Both of the Pinots were well constructed. I'm not sure if I'm over-reaching with my wine analysis here, but I've noticed that some winemakers nimbly use acid as a structural aspect within their wines, Bill Easton at Terre Rouge definitely does this, Sashi Moorman does this, especially at Sandhi. At Sanford, for some reason, I noticed the absence of this. Acid showed up as a specific aspect, a note, but not adding structure. Well it's a thought. In my notes, I wrote that the Vista Al Rio Pinot was a "swing voter," which still cracks me up. I guess I'm saying that the wine was a fence rider, trying to please as many as possible. Although I enjoyed the wines, the prices were too steep.
Experience: B- / Wines: B
Foley Estates Vineyards & Winery ($0 member's tasting, wines $30-$75)
'11 "Steel" Chardonnay, '10 Chardonnay - Santa Rita Hills, '10 Chardonnay - Bar Lazy S , '10 Chardonnay - Two Sisters, '10 Pinot Noir - Santa Rita Hills, '10 Pinot Noir - Two Sisters
While at the Ampelos member event, we met a few lovely couples. One of the couples invited us to join them at Foley where they were members for a tasting. Now we'd been to Foley once before, and had a disliked the place on that visit. So I wasn't stoked to return, but we enjoyed their company, so we decided to go. The grounds were well manicured, the tasting room politely decorated with lots for sale, and commercials for Foley and its partner wineries played on the flat screen tv.
My major grudge with Foley (as with Sanford) is that it is a very corporate winery. That's certainly how I felt during our first visit. That visit was awhile back and now I think I've mellowed a bit on that issue. Just because a winery is corporate, that doesn't mean its product isn't smartly made. I guess early in my experience with visiting wineries on I lumped wines into two categories: artisanal and corporate. Obviously there's a hell of a lot more complexity to that spectrum.
Since we were with members, the staff were happy to pour us the good stuff. The Bar Lazy S Chardonnay was definitely a mainstream Chardonnay, 40% new oak, but was nicely balanced. As well the Two Sisters Chardonnay - their top shelf bottling was enjoyable. It was made with 100% new oak and full malolactic fermentation, sure to be a golf club crowd pleaser, but pleasing to me as well. The Pinots were pretty good. The Santa Rita Hills wasn't exciting but had some nice notes on the back end. The Two Sisters probably is a bit young still - showing tightness - but had a fun chewy, leafy green entry, smartly used oak, and was nicely balanced.
Experience: C+ / Wines: B
Sunday (Lompoc)
Scott Cellars ($10 tasting, wines $18-$42)
'10 Pinot Blanc - Sierra Madre, '10 Chardonnay - Sierra Madre, '09 Pinot Noir - Sierra Madre, '10 Sangiovese - Whitehawk, '09 Sangiovese - Stolpman, '10 "Cuvee JP" (Sangiovese/Syrah), '10 "WHOLL" (Syrah/Sangiovese/Zinfandel), '10 Syrah - Larner
The minute we walked into Scott, we were enthusiastically greeted by perhaps the friendliest winery person I've ever met. He - as we figured out as the tasting went on - ended up being Peter "Scott" Fraser the owner/winemaker. He was so excited to share his wines, and tell his stories - which I'm sure he's told thousands of times. His excitement was infectious, it was difficult to not get amped up about the wine industry in response. Peter really built himself up into the wine world, going from wine clerk to winemaker and then to owner. Peter opened Scott Cellars in 2005, buying grapes from an assortment of vineyards in the Santa Barbara and Santa Maria AVAs. This independent winery is the exact opposite end of the spectrum from Sanford and Foley. As much as I liked Peter, I felt that the wines were clunky. The Pinot Blanc was cute and tasty - and the bottle that we brought home and drank later was enjoyable. The acid on the Pinot Noir made the wine less enjoyable - rough around the edges. Both of the Sangioveses were fun to drink but a bit sharp and unrefined. I had a good time drinking the Cuvee JP - nice kick, but a bit too sweet. The WHOLL was definitely an interesting and fun blend, quick pepper, lively but calm. The Syrah was enjoyable - very juicy.
Experience: B+ / Wines: B
Bratcher Winery / Arcadian Winery ($15 tasting, wines: Bratcher - unknown / Arcadian $45-$75)
Bratcher '09 Chardonnay - Santa Maria Valley, Bratcher '08 Pinot Noir - Santa Maria Valley, Bratcher '09 Pinot Noir - La Encantada, Arcadian '07 Chardonnay - Sleepy Hollow, Arcadian '06 Syrah - Stolpman, Arcadian '07 Pinot Noir - Sleepy Hollow
I guess that I was unclear that Bratcher and Arcadian shared a tasting room. We'd visited Arcadian once before, a year ago, and we thought that the wine was quite good, but expensive. My intention was for us to check out one of the few wineries in the Ghetto that we hadn't been to before - Bratcher. But we walked into Arcadian, which was now serving Bratcher wine as well. The dude at the tasting room seemed nice, so we agreed to try the Bratcher wines and the Arcadian wines.
There is a relationship between the two labels, Joe Davis of Arcadian has been mentoring Chris Bratcher as he grows his winery, therefore it makes sense that they share a tasting room as well.
The Bratcher wines were enjoyable but not remarkable - soft, mellow, round. The Chard was a bit syrupy but had a nice sunniness. The Santa Maria Valley Pinot had some nice herbal qualities, unfortunately it had no tannins at all. The La Encantada showed slight brown aging and lacked depth. I'm having some trouble with the Bratcher website, and I don't recall what their wine prices were, but I feel like they were in the high $20 to high $30 range - not quite the price that I would hope for with their wines.
On the other hand, the Arcadian wines are quite pricey and quite good. The Chardonnay - served at room temp - was super calm with forthright acid, crisp. The Syrah was very flavorful, even a bit of cool funk. The Pinot showed talented balance with "chewy fancy jams." Quite an enjoyable drink.
Experience: B / Wines: B
Zotovich Cellars ($10 tasting, wines $22-$48)
'10 Chardonnay, '12 Rosé of Pinot Noir, '10 Pinot Noir, '10 Syrah
thinking was: which place deserves a second chance? Zotovich and Fiddlehead were the two places that sprung to mind. We chose Zotovich, and planned to revisit Fiddlehead on another day. One our
And it did. First off, we were the only visitors at the time, so no worries about obnoxious old guys. Second, the staff person was quite knowledgeable, also a departure from the first visit. As well, the wine was something that I definitely enjoyed more this time around. The Chardonnay was quite bright, with a nutty flavor and hints of greenness. The Rosé was flavorful and balanced, a fun to drink "jam vinegarette." I found the Pinot to be calm and intricate, there's a mouth kick that hangs toward the end. The Syrah was pretty good, but my least favorite, not as well rounded as the others.
Experience: B / Wines: B+
I left from this weekend a bit confused. Things had gotten a bit topsy-turvy. With having to alter my perceptions about the qualities of Sanford and Foley, my anti-corporate values had taken a bit of a hit. Moreover, I started to recognize that my first impressions of Foley and Zotovich were off-base. I guess that means that I'm going to have to revisit a bunch of other wineries in the future - its a heavy burden, but I guess I'll take it on.
On the other hand, it was a stellar weekend. The Ampelos party was awesome as usual. We met some great folks and really enjoyed the wines that we had at the various places that we visited. I'll seek to have more of an open mind about wineries that I investigate in the future.
July '13 Santa Barbara Trip - The Old New is Old, the New New is Very New
Even though visits to the Santa Barbara wine country are old hat for me now, new was the theme for this trip. We went with new friends, checked out some newly opened wineries, and we experimented with mixing camping and winery-hopping together (what I am trying to brand as "wamping," though without much success). Saturday (Los Olivos)
Sandhi Wines ($10 tasting, wines $28-$45)
'11 Chardonnay - Santa Rita Hills, '11 Chardonnay - Rita's Crown, '11 Chardonnay - Sanford & Benedict, '12 Rosè of Pinot Noir - Rita's Crown, '11 Pinot Noir - Santa Rita Hills, '11 Pinot Noir - La Encantada, '11 Pinot Noir - Wenzlau
Sandhi is a rather new winery that's been created by partners Rajat Parr - a super famous sommelier, Charles Banks - owner of Jonata and Screaming Eagle wineries, and the winemaker and all-around badass Sashi Moorman of Piedrasassi, Stolpman, and Evening Land. The tasting room is in a small building in the back of what is now Mattei's Tavern - originally built in 1886 as a hotel for the carriage line that went through the Santa Ynez Valley. Now Mattei's Tavern is hip restaurant serving both traditional and modern local fare. Sandhi moved into the complex in November, and has intentions to expand to making pizzas out on their patio.
It was a bit tricky for us to find the tasting room, it's placed on the far back corner of the property, though it would have been easy enough to drive up to if we had taken the alleyway. We were welcomed into the old made new sleek space. The tasting room attendant was a fun guy to chat with, he was very much on our wavelength.
The wines were all top shelf quality. Acid was well utilized to provide structure, and the alcohol levels were kept low, so the wines were calm and polite. Subtle notes crept in throught the experience of each sip. For the most part, these were wine nerd wines - not something that would be smart to indoctrinate new wine drinkers on. They might find the wines agreeable, but they wouldn't get a deep appreciation for the artistry. Both of the Chardonnays had effective sharpness, balance and length. The Rosè was straight crazy-times. It was led through carbonic maceration during fermentation, which is not a process that I'm familiar with, but is the same process used to make Beaujolais nouveau. It was super interesting - a candied vegital note - definitely something to nerd out on. The Pinots were all light, tart fruit with sprinkles of pepper, serious but fun. The Wenzlau had a bizzare nose of pickles, which thankfully wasn't present in the taste, it was my favorite of the whole lineup.
Experience: B / Wine: B+
Sunday (Highway 246 and Lompoc Wine Ghetto)
Babcock Winery & Vineyards ($15 "Terroir" tasting, wines $14-$60)
'11 White Syrah "Identity Crisis", '11 Chardonnay, '12 Pinot Gris "Naughty Little Hillsides", '11 Pinot Noir "Precocious" - El Camino Ranch, '11 Pinot Noir "Ocean's Ghost", '11 Pinot Noir "Déjà vu" - Rabbit Ridge, '10 Cabernet Sauvignon "Block 15" - Estelle
Though the winery's been around for a long time (since the early 80's), the tasting room is brand new. It's a big open warehouse building, and it has a hip aesthetic. Apparently Mona Babcock is a top executive at Forever 21, and designed it with goal of creating a "modern mid-century vibe."
There were a few other couples at the counter when we arrived, so we sidled on up like the wine cowboys that we are. The guy behind the counter was cool. He was local and chatted enthusiastically about the area and the local wine.
I respect the wine that we tried, but I didn't love it. Across the board the wines were "too much." The Chardonnay was too pillow-y from too much malolactic fermentation. The Pinot Gris was too boisterous. The "Ocean's Ghost" Pinot Noir was too juicy. The Cabernet had too much garnet. By no means were these bad wines, but a little bit overboard, and because they did show interesting subtleties, it bummed me out a bit with the "too much" aspects. Bryan Babcock is definitely an interesting winemaker. He's making exciting wines - especially Pinots - with a variety of takes. I'd just rather that the wines would be a bit less brash.
Experience: B / Wine: B-
Palmina ($10 tasting, wines $18-$30)
'11 Arneis, '12 Pinot Grigio, '12 Tocai Fruliano, '11 Malvasia Bianca, '12 "Botasea" Rosè (Dolcetto/Barbera/Nebbiolo), '11 Dolcetto, '10 Barbera, '07 Nebbiolo
I thought quite highly of Palmina on my first visit there in April, 2011. I thought that the hospitality was grand and that the wines were made with talent and confidence. It's not that I was off-base with my opinion, nor is Palmina inhospitable with untalented wines, but two years later the wine and experience isn't a standout in the field. It's still a welcoming place to visit.The gents working there were friendly, though the guy that took could have used some more training. He stated that "not many people have heard of Pinot Grigio," hmmm, not so sure you're right about that buddy. There were snacks to enjoy, breadsticks, cured meats, olive oils, etc. As we were there the place packed up to the point that there was quite a din.
My opinion of their wine has changed pretty dramatically. On this visit I found the wines to be bland and monochromatic. Most had a singular upfront flavor and then fell away dramatically. The Malvasia Bianca was some fun, the nose was very light and sweet and the taste was quite dry, nothing like the nose at all. Of the reds, the Barbera was the most enjoyable, some complexity with pepper and plum notes as well as earthiness.The Nebbiolo, aka the wine of kings, had some nice acid and tannins, but fell away pretty quickly.
I'm more familiar with wines from Italy than from France, due to the fact that there's a wine bar and store down the street from my place that I used to frequent. Outside of Sangioveses and Barberas, I've not encountered really good Italian varietals being made in California. They come off more safe and boring. Perhaps if I knew French wine better I'd feel the same way about French varietals being made in Cali.
Experience: B- / Wine: C
Joseph Blair Wines ($10 tasting, wines $22-$30)
'10 "Ghetto White" Chenin Blanc, '10 Viognier, '10 Gewurztraminer, '09 "Heartbreak" Pinot Noir, '09 "Reveller" (Merlot/Petit Verdot), '10 Cabernet Sauvignon
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| Image from http://wine-dingroad.com/ |
Even though Joseph Blair is a new winery, we've attempted to visit twice before. The first time the doors were locked, and the folks at Jalama told us that Marc had a tractor break down, so we wouldn't be able to taste at the new place. The second time the doors were unlocked, but there was no one around, and after poking around for 10 minutes, we headed to another place. Finally on this visit, we were able check out the wines.
First off, Mark Cagassachi's dog Chester is the coolest dog ever. He's a rat terrier I think. That's it, just had to be said.
The tasting room has rotating art from local artists and a few high tables to sit around as well as a large desk counter where the wine is poured. The woman pouring the wines for us is an enthusiastic fan of Jalama and Joseph Blair, and happily took care of us.
The whites were nicely full-flavored, though all showed a little too much oak. The Viognier showed pretty, fragile flowers, which I always enjoy. The Ghetto Red had some fun notes, two well combined notes, pretty with a kick. The Reveller had a similar profile, but was a bit more convoluted. The Cabernet was really interesting, almost like sweet dirt. It had just been bottled, so it's likely that the wine will get better.
I've visited Jalama a handful of times and think highly of the wines that Mark Cargasacchi creates. That talent is carrying over to his Joseph Blair wines. They are a little bit more vivacious and silly, though not quite as deep. At this point, the prices of these wines are pretty decent, which is always appreciated.
Experience: B / Wine: B
Tyler Winery ($15 tasting, wines $36-$60)
'11 Chardonnay, '11 Chardonnay - Clos Pepe, '11 Pinot Noir, '11 Pinot Noir - Bien Nacido, '11 Pinot Noir - Bentrock
Justin Willett of Tyler Winery definitely represents the cutting edge of Santa Barbara wine. He's young, he's got a bunch of different wine projects going, and like Sandhi Wines, is trying to honor the Burgundian style with his wines in the Sta. Rita Hills region.
The winery warehouse that we tasted in was brand new - walls are still being built to create offices. Apparently Ryan Zotovich of Zotovich Cellars owns the big building that houses Tyler, and the plan is to have both wineries in the space, as well as a boutique hotel and an eatery. That would be a huge cultural shift for Lompoc, and definitely speaks to the potential greater trend that's occurring in the area. I've heard that the Lompoc City Council are pretty anti-growth, so perhaps the project won't get off the ground.The lady that ran the tasting room exuded a hoity-toity vibe. She was very proud of Tyler wines, and was happy to show it off, but she also was a bit dismissive of other winemakers in the area. When I asked er the prices of the Tyler wines, she answered "They're all under $60." as though any decent wine drinker would be happy to buy any bottle as long as it's under $60.
I will say that the wines were incredibly impressive. The Chardonnays were flavorful but respectful, the Clos Pepe maybe a bit too dense in flavor. The Pinots were excellent. Similar profiles, but nicely distinct aspects. The Bentrock was the most impressive. It had a cool blood orange note.
Experience: B- / Wine: A-
Monday (Foxen Canyon Road and Santa Maria)
Demetria Estate ($10 tasting, wines $22-$45)
'12 Riesling, '11 Chardonnay, '12 Rosè of Grenache, '12 Rosè of Pinot Noir, '11 Pinot Noir - La Encantada, '10 Syrah, '10 "Cuvee Constantine" (Grenache/Mourvedre/Syrah), '10 "North Slope" Syrah
The drive up to Demetria off of Foxen Canyon is a long and winding one, but the view from estate makes trip worthwhile. The Tuscan style building and grounds overlook a slight ravine, and the opposing slope is covered with vines, and rolling hills and vines continue on behind for a long distance. There's a peaceful garden and patio with plenty of tables and chairs. There were a few other groups at the same time. Some folks were lunching which we ended up doing after our tasting.The one drag about this place was the staff person who took care of us. Perhaps he was having a shit day, but I'm guessing that he's generally an ass, because he managed to be a snot, a schlub, and a general doofus as the same time. Right off the bat he gave me guff for asking for tasting notes that I could write on - acting as though he had to go to great lengths to grab me a blank piece of paper. He also was fussy at our friend for wanting to fill up her water bottle. And last be not least he called my wife nosey for overhearing that another patron was being pouring a Rosè that wasn't on the pouring list, and asking if we could try it as well.
Thankfully our severe dislike of that dude was overcome by superb wine. The Riesling and the Chardonnay were just pretty good, and the Rosè of Pinot didn't blow me away, but the rest of the wines were fantastic. My favorites were the Rosè of Grenache (flowers and peaches, quite precious and flavorful), the Pinot Noir (affirmatively against grain for Santa Barbara - earthy and vegital, calm and delicious), and the Estate Syrah (mellow, light, some sweet peppers and green vines).
Experience: B / Wines: A-
Presqu'ile Winery ($20 tasting, wines $18-$55)
'12 Sauvignon Blanc, '11 Chardonnay, '12 Rosè of Pinot Noir, '11 Pinot Noir, '10 Pinot Noir - Rim Rock, '10 Estate Pinot Noir
Our traveling companions had visited Presqu'ile's tasting room in Los Olivos a few months prior and had spoken quite highly of the wines, so we decided to check them out and to have a look at their brand new winery complex out in Santa Maria. The grounds are gorgeous. The airy main building incorporates posh elements that are rare in the region, such as a member's only tasting room, and a wine cave that is only granted to higher level members.The wines were impressive - it justified the highbrow atmosphere of the space. All were low alcohol compared to the region, between 12.9% and 13.6%. The Pinots were nicely varied - the Santa Maria Valley was peppery and meaty, the Rim Rock was circumspect (first time I've used that adjective in my tasting notes - check out the big brain on Brad!), and the estate was light with a cute little kick.
As much as we enjoyed the wines, I was a bit thrown by the exclusivity vibe at Presqu'ile. Members receive no discount on the wine - as far as I know, no other Santa Barbara area winery does that with their memberships. Members do receive free shipping on purchases, free tastings, and access to parts of the winery that non-member are restricted from - such as the special tasting room and the wine cave. I'll be interested to see if that strategy catches on with other wineries in the region.
Experience: B+ / Wines: B+
Based on the quality of wine being produced at the three very new wineries that we visited - Sandhi, Tyler, and Presqu'ile - it really feels like the Santa Barbara region is gaining momentum. Sure, it's been booming for awhile, catalyzed by "Sideways" and the general notion of wine tourism, but now there seems to be a stronger majority of wineries been created with very talented staff and deep-pocketed backers. I'm hopeful that this trend continues, but somehow without making the region more snooty and pricey.
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