August '14 Santa Barbara Trip - Knocking Their Socks Off

For years I've been haranguing old friends who live in Northern California to come down to Santa Barbara to enjoy the wine country. Finally they succumbed to my demands. In choosing which wineries should go, I wanted to show them my favorite haunts. Of course a number of places that I dig are in the Wine Ghetto, so Lompoc was on the list. Lucky Ken Brown, Lafond and Presqu'ile are on the west side of the valley as well, so we didn't have to spend much time driving across the region.

Lafond Winery and Vineyards ($10 tasting, wines $20-$48)
'12 Riesling, '12 Stainless Steel Estate Chardonnay, '11 Pinot Noir, '10 Pinot Noir - Arita Hills Vineyard, '11 Syrah, '10 Estate Syrah
We took scenic Santa Rosa Road from Lompoc first thing in the morning, and wound along the road to get to Lafond. On my first and prior visit to Lafond, the front tasting room was crowded with patrons, but the wine manufacturing floor was being used for tasting as well, and one of the best tasting room employees I've met to this day - Diane - took great care of us. This time around, the place wasn't as crowded, the back area was getting prepped for a wedding, and Diane was nowhere to be found. This time around our visit was more pedestrian. The staff were perfectly nice - the zing was gone though. Regardless of our individual experience, Lafond is the oldest established winery in the region, opening in 1962. The next winery to open was in 1972. Given that, they are dependable and confident.
I found the wines to embrace that same quality, though also a bit mainstream. The Riesling showed some nice flavors - peach, machine, leaves - but too crisp on the back end. Stainless Steel Chardonnays are become more popular, and I think that's a good thing. This one was nicely crisp and interesting. Of the two Pinots, I enjoyed the Santa Rita Hills blend more than the Arita Hills Vineyard designate - both were fruity, but the blend was more approachable, the designate too juicy. Perhaps some aging would change my preference. I enjoyed the Estate Syrah more, but both were a bit to heavy for my tastes.
On both the experience and the wine, I wasn't quite as captivated with Lafond as I was on my first visit. It's still a high quality place, and probably will be for another fifty years.
Experience: B / Wines: B

Ken Brown Wines ($10 tasting, wines $35-$60)
'12 Chardonnay - Nielson Vineyard, '12 Pinot Noir, '11 Pinot Noir - Santa Rita Hills, '11 Pinot Noir - Garey Vineyard, '10 Pinot Noir - Rancho La Viña Vineyard, '11 Syrah - Watch Hill Vineyard
Ken Brown's covered a lot of ground over the past 35 years. He was the founding winemaker at Zaca Mesa Winery - one of the first wineries to open in the area, and still one of the largest. In 1984, he established Byron (Byron is his first name). Byron was an extremely successful label, eventually being bought out by Robert Mondavi, and then Kendall Jackson. After leaving both of those enterprises, he still found himself a very busy man - consulting and mentoring other wineries throughout the region. But he still had a hankering for making is own wine. And for that many are thankful. Ken Brown Wines are some of the most solid in the area. He's best known for his Pinots and Chardonnays, but also puts out Syrahs.
This was our third visit to Ken Brown over the past few years. The last two visits were in an appointment only space - the new space is just down the street and has regular hours for folks to drop in for tastings. The new spot was quite attractive - open with lots of wood features. I was curious about staff, the appointment visits were always with Ken and his wife Deb, who were very welcoming and of course knowledgeable. The staff at the new place were extremely competent and quite friendly. They also recommended the new restaurant in Buellton - Industrial Eats - which was amazing.
As usual the wine was great. The Chardonnay was showy, a bit sticky, and well balanced. The fun thing about visiting the godfather of Pinot is trying lots of Pinots. On this visit, all four that we tried were great. The SBC was easy and pleasing. The SRH was smooth and complex - elements of plum and thyme. The Garey Vineyard was my favorite - wood bark and big acid - seriously balanced and just plain serious. The Rancho La Viña was also very enjoyable - intricate, lengthy and fruity. Finally the Syrah - nice notes of savory preserves and mushrooms - though it was a bit binary.
Experience: A- / Wines: B+

Piedrasassi Winery ($10 tasting, wines $18-$42)
'13 "Light Summer Red" Carbonic Sangiovese, '11 "White Wine" (Albariño/Sauvignon Blanc), Lompoc Wine Company '12 Pinot Noir, '10 Syrah
Piedrasassi is one of the most exciting places to visit in the Wine Ghetto. It's the the most stylish - even though they've redecorated three times in the past two years. They bake bread that they sell at the local farmers market and share samples with the tasting. And the wine is unique. Piedrasassi is the personal wine label of Sashi Moorman, winemaker extraordinaire for the region - he also makes wine for Stolpman and Sandhi.
The redecorated space was great fun. A big wraparound bar and lots of tile. The staff person there was tremendously friendly, and even though things got a bit hectic due to a malfunction with their credit card machine, she was cool and on top of things.
I was a little concerned that the wine would be too avant garde for my friends, but it all went over well with them. The Carbonic Sangiovese was good times - chewy with lots of acid, apricot and plum skins. Stolpman is doing a Carbonic Sangio as well - both are good, but Stolpman's is slightly more mainstream. I enjoyed the White Wine thoroughly, it was macho but also had sweetness. The Pinot was full-flavored yet simple, nothing to plant a flag to. As usual the Syrah was great - very full flavored, well-balanced, almost aggressive in it's youthfulness.
Experience: B+ / Wines: B+

Clos Pepe Estate ($0 tour, wines $20-$59)
Axis Munde '13 Rosé (Mourvèdre/Grenache), '12 "Homage to Chablis" Chardonnay, '12 "Barrel Fermented" Chardonnay, Axis Munde '12 Grenache/Syrah, '11 Pinot Noir, '09 Pinot Noir, '10 Pinot Noir
Almost all wineries are character-driven enterprises - the wine emulate their leadership - Stolpman is calm and friendly, Zotovich is classy, Sarloos is quirky, Ampelos is boisterious. Wes Hagen of Clos Pepe may be the biggest character in the area. No one that I've interacted with in the Santa Barbara wine community is more effusive, nerdy, and instructive as him. The tours that he leads at Clos Pepe are bar none. We've done the tour once before, and that time it was just our small group of four. This time around he had a huge group, and he held court. During the tour, Wes connected wine to a wide range of human history - the formation of society, the creation of philosophy, medicine, politics, and lots of other stuff. During the tasting in the beautiful Pepe home, Wes gave an informal lessen on wine pairing and general sommelier concepts.
The tasting was accompanied by warmed baguette and various cheeses (one of these f'ing days I need to figure out how to get over my lactose issues and enjoy some damn cheese). Wes hovered around the room, introducing the various wines - telling stories to accompany each. As on my first visit, the wine was superb. The Rosé was a savory blend of strawberries and watercress, structured by strong acid. The "Homage to Chablis" showed a fun interplay between acid and calm fruit - it was subtle and attractive. The "Barrel Fermented" Chard was definitely more mouth-filling with a cute maple syrup note, though it retained it's minerality. The three Pinots were all delicious, and definitely showed individualized characteristics. The '11 showed fruit, but remained slight. The '09 was more aggressive on the opening and had a good amount of refined fruit. The '10 was very upfront and boisterous. All in all, a profound wine geek's experience. 
Experience: A+ / Wine: A

Presqu'ile Winery (member tasting, wines $18-$48)
'13 Sauvignon Blanc, '12 Chardonnay, '13 Rosé (Pinot Noir), '12 Estate Pinot Noir, '12 Pinot Noir - Steiner Vineyard
Presqu'ile completely blew me away on my first visit - which was not to long after they had opened their estate winery for tastings. I thought that the wine was confident and clear, the staff intelligent, and the location austere and attractive. One thing that I had noted at the time was that the winery was really gearing itself toward exclusivity. Based on my recommendation, a friend who frequents the area for work went to Presqu'ile. He liked it so much that he became a member. So on this visit, I was able to partake in the exclusivity with my member friend - the member's only patio, the extra tasting, etc. As Presqu'ile grows, I think that the exclusivity aspect taints the experience for me. Folks that are attracted to exclusive access are not people that I enjoy being around.
Regardless, the property is gorgeous. The architecture is the most exciting that I've experienced in the area - modern and clever. We tasted our wine on the member's only back patio - trendy outdoor furniture abound. The patio had a bar to sidle up when we were ready to progress through the wine list - for the most part we sat around our table and chatted or played rousing games of foosball.
The Sauvignon Blanc was clean with a hint of jalapeños. The Chardonnay was a bit over-flavored. I enjoyed the '12 Pinot, it had a lot of funky flavors - green and black olives, and was high in tannins. The Steiner Vineyard Pinot Noir was extremely flavorful, bordering on over-extracted, but still a very enjoyable drink. The wines were all high on the flavor-scale, a bit to much collectively.
Experience: B- / Wine: B

Well it worked, my friends were thoroughly impressed by the region. Specifically Clos Pepe, Ken Brown and Stolpman (which I opted to not review since I visit it so frequently) were the biggest hits, though all were enjoyed. It was a weekend of catching up with great friends and superb wine. These friends are important to me, so to be able to spend a relaxing weekend of epicurean pursuits with them was a boon. 

August '13 Santa Barbara Trip - Second Chances

It's become an important holiday in our household to head up to Santa Barbara the first weekend of August for Ampelos' annual member appreciation party. They throw a hell of a party - and it's an excuse to have another wine weekend, quickly following our July trip. This time around we planned to check out a winery before and the party on Saturday and then another after the party, then to hit up a few places in Lompoc on Sunday.

Saturday (Santa Rosa Road & Highway 246)

Sanford Winery & Vineyards ($20 "Winemakers Flight" tasting, wines $30 - $80)
'09 Chardonnay - La Rinconada, '09 Chardonnay - La Entrada, '10 Viognier - Sanford & Benedict, '09 "Fleur de Domaine" (Viognier/Roussanne), '10 Pinot Noir - La Rinconada, '10 Pinot Noir - Sanford & Benedict, '09 Pinot Noir - Vista Al Rio

 I'd heard lots about Sanford prior to our visit. It happens to be a popular topic of conversation with folks who work at the wineries in the area. Sanford is a cornerstone winery to the region, and it's original owner - Richard Sanford - was instrumental in the growth of Santa Barbara wine, especially Pinot. Awhile back Richard Sanford lost the winery after corporate interests took over (though why he lost it is a bit of a point of dispute between the locals). Richard Sanford reopened as Alma Rosa in the old Sanford location, and the Sanford Winery kept the name and moved down Santa Rosa Road to its new home. Based on the stories that we heard, I avoided Sanford. I dislike the concept of corporate wineries. I've been to some pretty paltry ones, such as Rutherford Hill (though also some solid ones, ex: Byron). I guess its my assumption that corporations rely on market analysis to create their wines rather than using artistic intent. That sort of thing bums me out. I'm not really into wine for the acute market analysis. Sanford's space doesn't dis-spell my assumptions. Its a big, faux ranch house, filled to the gills with merchandise.
It being a Saturday, there were plenty of folks sidled up to the bar. As much I wanted to hate Sanford, I really appreciated how intelligent their staff was, and I felt that their wine was well made. The white wines didn't light my fire, but they were solid - the Viognier being the one that I enjoyed the most. Both of the Pinots were well constructed. I'm not sure if I'm over-reaching with my wine analysis here, but I've noticed that some winemakers nimbly use acid as a structural aspect within their wines, Bill Easton at Terre Rouge definitely does this, Sashi Moorman does this, especially at Sandhi. At Sanford, for some reason, I noticed the absence of this. Acid showed up as a specific aspect, a note, but not adding structure. Well it's a thought. In my notes, I wrote that the Vista Al Rio Pinot was a "swing voter," which still cracks me up. I guess I'm saying that the wine was a fence rider, trying to please as many as possible. Although I enjoyed the wines, the prices were too steep.
Experience: B- / Wines: B

Foley Estates Vineyards & Winery ($0 member's tasting, wines $30-$75)
'11 "Steel" Chardonnay, '10 Chardonnay - Santa Rita Hills, '10 Chardonnay - Bar Lazy S , '10 Chardonnay - Two Sisters, '10 Pinot Noir - Santa Rita Hills, '10 Pinot Noir - Two Sisters
While at the Ampelos member event, we met a few lovely couples. One of the couples invited us to join them at Foley where they were members for a tasting. Now we'd been to Foley once before, and had a disliked the place on that visit. So I wasn't stoked to return, but we enjoyed their company, so we decided to go. The grounds were well manicured, the tasting room politely decorated with lots for sale, and commercials for Foley and its partner wineries played on the flat screen tv.
My major grudge with Foley (as with Sanford) is that it is a very corporate winery. That's certainly how I felt during our first visit. That visit was awhile back and now I think I've mellowed a bit on that issue. Just because a winery is corporate, that doesn't mean its product isn't smartly made. I guess early in my experience with visiting wineries on I lumped wines into two categories: artisanal and corporate. Obviously there's a hell of a lot more complexity to that spectrum.
Since we were with members, the staff were happy to pour us the good stuff. The Bar Lazy S Chardonnay was definitely a mainstream Chardonnay, 40% new oak, but was nicely balanced. As well the Two Sisters Chardonnay - their top shelf bottling was enjoyable. It was made with 100% new oak and full malolactic fermentation, sure to be a golf club crowd pleaser, but pleasing to me as well. The Pinots were pretty good. The Santa Rita Hills wasn't exciting but had some nice notes on the back end. The Two Sisters probably is a bit young still - showing tightness - but had a fun chewy, leafy green entry, smartly used oak, and was nicely balanced.
Experience: C+ / Wines: B

Sunday (Lompoc)

Scott Cellars ($10 tasting, wines $18-$42)
'10 Pinot Blanc - Sierra Madre, '10 Chardonnay - Sierra Madre, '09 Pinot Noir - Sierra Madre, '10 Sangiovese - Whitehawk,  '09 Sangiovese - Stolpman, '10 "Cuvee JP" (Sangiovese/Syrah), '10 "WHOLL" (Syrah/Sangiovese/Zinfandel), '10 Syrah - Larner
The minute we walked into Scott, we were enthusiastically greeted by perhaps the friendliest winery person I've ever met. He - as we figured out as the tasting went on - ended up being Peter "Scott" Fraser the owner/winemaker. He was so excited to share his wines, and tell his stories - which I'm sure he's told thousands of times. His excitement was infectious,  it was difficult to not get amped up about the wine industry in response. Peter really built himself up into the wine world, going from wine clerk to winemaker and then to owner. Peter opened Scott Cellars in 2005, buying grapes from an assortment of vineyards in the Santa Barbara and Santa Maria AVAs. This independent winery is the exact opposite end of the spectrum from Sanford and Foley.
As much as I liked Peter, I felt that the wines were clunky. The Pinot Blanc was cute and tasty - and the bottle that we brought home and drank later was enjoyable. The acid on the Pinot Noir made the wine less enjoyable - rough around the edges. Both of the Sangioveses were fun to drink but a bit sharp and unrefined. I had a good time drinking the Cuvee JP - nice kick, but a bit too sweet. The WHOLL was definitely an interesting and fun blend, quick pepper, lively but calm. The Syrah was enjoyable - very juicy.
Experience: B+ / Wines: B

Bratcher Winery / Arcadian Winery ($15 tasting, wines: Bratcher - unknown / Arcadian $45-$75)
Bratcher '09 Chardonnay - Santa Maria Valley, Bratcher '08 Pinot Noir - Santa Maria Valley, Bratcher '09 Pinot Noir - La Encantada, Arcadian '07 Chardonnay - Sleepy Hollow, Arcadian '06 Syrah - Stolpman, Arcadian '07 Pinot Noir - Sleepy Hollow
 I guess that I was unclear that Bratcher and Arcadian shared a tasting room. We'd visited Arcadian once before, a year ago, and we thought that the wine was quite good, but expensive. My intention was for us to check out one of the few wineries in the Ghetto that we hadn't been to before - Bratcher. But we walked into Arcadian, which was now serving Bratcher wine as well. The dude at the tasting room seemed nice, so we agreed to try the Bratcher wines and the Arcadian wines.
There is a relationship between the two labels, Joe Davis of Arcadian has been mentoring Chris Bratcher as he grows his winery, therefore it makes sense that they share a tasting room as well.
The Bratcher wines were enjoyable but not remarkable - soft, mellow, round. The Chard was a bit syrupy but had a nice sunniness. The Santa Maria Valley Pinot had some nice herbal qualities, unfortunately it had no tannins at all. The La Encantada showed slight brown aging and lacked depth. I'm having some trouble with the Bratcher website, and I don't recall what their wine prices were, but I feel like they were in the high $20 to high $30 range - not quite the price that I would hope for with their wines.
On the other hand, the Arcadian wines are quite pricey and quite good. The Chardonnay - served at room temp - was super calm with forthright acid, crisp. The Syrah was very flavorful, even a bit of cool funk. The Pinot showed talented balance with "chewy fancy jams." Quite an enjoyable drink.
Experience: B / Wines: B

Zotovich Cellars ($10 tasting, wines $22-$48)
'10 Chardonnay, '12 Rosé of Pinot Noir, '10 Pinot Noir, '10 Syrah

While we wandered around the Ghetto considering what one additional place we should visit, the first visit to Zotovich, we thought the wine was okay, but we definitely didn't love the experience. On that visit the tasting room was packed with mid-fifties frat dudes that were already pretty soused. So clearly there was a chance that the experience could improve the second time around.
thinking was: which place deserves a second chance? Zotovich and Fiddlehead were the two places that sprung to mind. We chose Zotovich, and planned to revisit Fiddlehead on another day. One our
And it did. First off, we were the only visitors at the time, so no worries about obnoxious old guys. Second, the staff person was quite knowledgeable, also a departure from the first visit.  As well, the wine was something that I definitely enjoyed more this time around. The Chardonnay was quite bright, with a nutty flavor and hints of greenness. The Rosé was flavorful and balanced, a fun to drink "jam vinegarette." I found the Pinot to be calm and intricate, there's a mouth kick that hangs toward the end. The Syrah was pretty good, but my least favorite, not as well rounded as the others.
Experience: B / Wines: B+

I left from this weekend a bit confused. Things had gotten a bit topsy-turvy. With having to alter my perceptions about the qualities of Sanford and Foley, my anti-corporate values had taken a bit of a hit. Moreover, I started to recognize that my first impressions of Foley and Zotovich were off-base. I guess that means that I'm going to have to revisit a bunch of other wineries in the future - its a heavy burden, but I guess I'll take it on.
On the other hand, it was a stellar weekend. The Ampelos party was awesome as usual. We met some great folks and really enjoyed the wines that we had at the various places that we visited. I'll seek to have more of an open mind about wineries that I investigate in the future.

July '13 Santa Barbara Trip - The Old New is Old, the New New is Very New

Even though visits to the Santa Barbara wine country are old hat for me now, new was the theme for this trip. We went with new friends, checked out some newly opened wineries, and we experimented with mixing camping and winery-hopping together (what I am trying to brand as "wamping," though without much success).

 Saturday (Los Olivos)

Sandhi Wines ($10 tasting, wines $28-$45)
'11 Chardonnay - Santa Rita Hills, '11 Chardonnay - Rita's Crown, '11 Chardonnay - Sanford & Benedict, '12 Rosè of Pinot Noir - Rita's Crown, '11 Pinot Noir - Santa Rita Hills, '11 Pinot Noir - La Encantada, '11 Pinot Noir - Wenzlau
Sandhi is a rather new winery that's been created by partners Rajat Parr - a super famous sommelier, Charles Banks - owner of Jonata and Screaming Eagle wineries, and the winemaker and all-around badass Sashi Moorman of Piedrasassi, Stolpman, and Evening Land. The tasting room is in a small building in the back of what is now Mattei's Tavern - originally built in 1886 as a hotel for the carriage line that went through the Santa Ynez Valley. Now Mattei's Tavern is hip restaurant serving both traditional and modern local fare. Sandhi moved into the complex in November, and has intentions to expand to making pizzas out on their patio.
It was a bit tricky for us to find the tasting room, it's placed on the far back corner of the property, though it would have been easy enough to drive up to if we had taken the alleyway. We were welcomed into the old made new sleek space. The tasting room attendant was a fun guy to chat with, he was very much on our wavelength.
The wines were all top shelf quality. Acid was well utilized to provide structure, and the alcohol levels were kept low, so the wines were calm and polite. Subtle notes crept in throught the experience of each sip. For the most part, these were wine nerd wines - not something that would be smart to indoctrinate new wine drinkers on. They might find the wines agreeable, but they wouldn't get a deep appreciation for the artistry. Both of the Chardonnays had effective sharpness, balance and length. The Rosè was straight crazy-times. It was led through carbonic maceration during fermentation, which is not a process that I'm familiar with, but is the same process used to make Beaujolais nouveau. It was super interesting - a candied vegital note - definitely something to nerd out on. The Pinots were all light, tart fruit with sprinkles of pepper, serious but fun. The Wenzlau had a bizzare nose of pickles, which thankfully wasn't present in the taste, it was my favorite of the whole lineup.
Experience: B / Wine: B+

Sunday (Highway 246 and Lompoc Wine Ghetto)

Babcock Winery & Vineyards ($15 "Terroir" tasting, wines $14-$60)
'11 White Syrah "Identity Crisis", '11 Chardonnay, '12 Pinot Gris "Naughty Little Hillsides", '11 Pinot Noir "Precocious" - El Camino Ranch, '11 Pinot Noir "Ocean's Ghost", '11 Pinot Noir "Déjà vu" - Rabbit Ridge, '10 Cabernet Sauvignon "Block 15" - Estelle

I've driven by Babcock many times, and have intended on stopping for the past few years, but for whatever reason it never jumped to the top of my list of places to visit. It's on the same route as Melville, Dierberg/Star Lane and Clos Pepe, wineries that I think highly of, so I guess I felt that the other wineries on Highway 246 couldn't be as good, so I should keep on driving. I'm now making a conscious decision to visit places that I'd skipped over before, so it was high time to make a Babcock stop. It's not like I dragged myself there kicking and screaming. The website for the winery touts the numerous accolades for winemaker Bryan Babcock, and a few different people had suggested that I visit there.
Though the winery's been around for a long time (since the early 80's), the tasting room is brand new. It's a big open warehouse building, and it has a hip aesthetic. Apparently Mona Babcock is a top executive at Forever 21, and designed it with goal of creating a "modern mid-century vibe."
There were a few other couples at the counter when we arrived, so we sidled on up like the wine cowboys that we are. The guy behind the counter was cool. He was local and chatted enthusiastically about the area and the local wine.
I respect the wine that we tried, but I didn't love it. Across the board the wines were "too much." The Chardonnay was too pillow-y from too much malolactic fermentation. The Pinot Gris was too boisterous. The "Ocean's Ghost" Pinot Noir was too juicy. The Cabernet had too much garnet. By no means were these bad wines, but a little bit overboard, and because they did show interesting subtleties, it bummed me out a bit with the "too much" aspects. Bryan Babcock is definitely an interesting winemaker. He's making exciting wines - especially Pinots - with a variety of takes. I'd just rather that the wines would be a bit less brash.
Experience: B / Wine: B-

Palmina ($10 tasting, wines $18-$30)
'11 Arneis, '12 Pinot Grigio, '12 Tocai Fruliano, '11 Malvasia Bianca, '12 "Botasea" Rosè (Dolcetto/Barbera/Nebbiolo), '11 Dolcetto, '10 Barbera, '07 Nebbiolo
I thought quite highly of Palmina on my first visit there in April, 2011. I thought that the hospitality was grand and that the wines were made with talent and confidence. It's not that I was off-base with my opinion, nor is Palmina inhospitable with untalented wines, but two years later the wine and experience isn't a standout in the field. It's still a welcoming place to visit.
The gents working there were friendly, though the guy that took could have used some more training. He stated that "not many people have heard of Pinot Grigio," hmmm, not so sure you're right about that buddy. There were snacks to enjoy, breadsticks, cured meats, olive oils, etc. As we were there the place packed up to the point that there was quite a din.
My opinion of their wine has changed pretty dramatically. On this visit I found the wines to be bland and monochromatic. Most had a singular upfront flavor and then fell away dramatically. The Malvasia Bianca was some fun, the nose was very light and sweet and the taste was quite dry, nothing like the nose at all. Of the reds, the Barbera was the most enjoyable, some complexity with pepper and plum notes as well as earthiness.The Nebbiolo, aka the wine of kings, had some nice acid and tannins, but fell away pretty quickly.
I'm more familiar with wines from Italy than from France, due to the fact that there's a wine bar and store down the street from my place that I used to frequent. Outside of Sangioveses and Barberas, I've not encountered really good Italian varietals being made in California. They come off more safe and boring. Perhaps if I knew French wine better I'd feel the same way about French varietals being made in Cali.
Experience: B- / Wine: C

Joseph Blair Wines ($10 tasting, wines $22-$30)
'10 "Ghetto White" Chenin Blanc, '10 Viognier, '10 Gewurztraminer, '09 "Heartbreak" Pinot Noir, '09 "Reveller" (Merlot/Petit Verdot), '10 Cabernet Sauvignon

Image from http://wine-dingroad.com/

Joseph Blair is the alternative label from Mark Cargassachi of Jalama. At Jalama, he's focusing on Rhone wines, whereas at Joseph Blair he's taking a crack at Bordeaux varietals as well as pinots and various whites.
Even though Joseph Blair is a new winery, we've attempted to visit twice before. The first time the doors were locked, and the folks at Jalama told us that Marc had a tractor break down, so we wouldn't be able to taste at the new place. The second time the doors were unlocked, but there was no one around, and after poking around for 10 minutes, we headed to another place. Finally on this visit, we were able check out the wines.
First off, Mark Cagassachi's dog Chester is the coolest dog ever. He's a rat terrier I think. That's it, just had to be said.
The tasting room has rotating art from local artists and a few high tables to sit around as well as a large desk counter where the wine is poured. The woman pouring the wines for us is an enthusiastic fan of Jalama and Joseph Blair, and happily took care of us.
The whites were nicely full-flavored, though all showed a little too much oak. The Viognier showed pretty, fragile flowers, which I always enjoy. The Ghetto Red had some fun notes, two well combined notes, pretty with a kick. The Reveller had a similar profile, but was a bit more convoluted. The Cabernet was really interesting, almost like sweet dirt. It had just been bottled, so it's likely that the wine will get better.
I've visited Jalama a handful of times and think highly of the wines that Mark Cargasacchi creates. That talent is carrying over to his Joseph Blair wines. They are a little bit more vivacious and silly, though not quite as deep. At this point, the prices of these wines are pretty decent, which is always appreciated.
Experience: B / Wine: B

Tyler Winery ($15 tasting, wines $36-$60)
'11 Chardonnay, '11 Chardonnay - Clos Pepe, '11 Pinot Noir, '11 Pinot Noir - Bien Nacido, '11 Pinot Noir - Bentrock
Justin Willett of Tyler Winery definitely represents the cutting edge of Santa Barbara wine. He's young, he's got a bunch of different wine projects going, and like Sandhi Wines, is trying to honor the Burgundian style with his wines in the Sta. Rita Hills region.
The winery warehouse that we tasted in was brand new - walls are still being built to create offices. Apparently Ryan Zotovich of Zotovich Cellars owns the big building that houses Tyler, and the plan is to have both wineries in the space, as well as a boutique hotel and an eatery. That would be a huge cultural shift for Lompoc, and definitely speaks to the potential greater trend that's occurring in the area. I've heard that the Lompoc City Council are pretty anti-growth, so perhaps the project won't get off the ground.
The lady that ran the tasting room exuded a hoity-toity vibe. She was very proud of Tyler wines, and was happy to show it off, but she also was a bit dismissive of other winemakers in the area. When I asked er the prices of the Tyler wines, she answered "They're all under $60." as though any decent wine drinker would be happy to buy any bottle as long as it's under $60.
I will say that the wines were incredibly impressive. The Chardonnays were flavorful but respectful, the Clos Pepe maybe a bit too dense in flavor. The Pinots were excellent. Similar profiles, but nicely distinct aspects. The Bentrock was the most impressive. It had a cool blood orange note.
Experience: B- / Wine: A- 

Monday (Foxen Canyon Road and Santa Maria)

Demetria Estate ($10 tasting, wines $22-$45)
'12 Riesling, '11 Chardonnay, '12 Rosè of Grenache, '12 Rosè of Pinot Noir, '11 Pinot Noir - La Encantada, '10 Syrah, '10 "Cuvee Constantine" (Grenache/Mourvedre/Syrah), '10 "North Slope" Syrah
The drive up to Demetria off of Foxen Canyon is a long and winding one, but the view from estate makes trip worthwhile. The Tuscan style building and grounds overlook a slight ravine, and the opposing slope is covered with vines, and rolling hills and vines continue on behind for a long distance. There's a peaceful garden and patio with plenty of tables and chairs. There were a few other groups at the same time. Some folks were lunching which we ended up doing after our tasting.
The one drag about this place was the staff person who took care of us. Perhaps he was having a shit day, but I'm guessing that he's generally an ass, because he managed to be a snot, a schlub, and a general doofus as the same time. Right off the bat he gave me guff for asking for tasting notes that I could write on - acting as though he had to go to great lengths to grab me a blank piece of paper. He also was fussy at our friend for wanting to fill up her water bottle. And last be not least he called my wife nosey for overhearing that another patron was being pouring a Rosè that wasn't on the pouring list, and asking if we could try it as well.
Thankfully our severe dislike of that dude was overcome by superb wine. The Riesling and the Chardonnay were just pretty good, and the Rosè of Pinot didn't blow me away, but the rest of the wines were fantastic. My favorites were the Rosè of Grenache (flowers and peaches, quite precious and flavorful), the Pinot Noir (affirmatively against grain for Santa Barbara - earthy and vegital, calm and delicious), and the Estate Syrah (mellow, light, some sweet peppers and green vines).
Experience: B / Wines: A-

Presqu'ile Winery ($20 tasting, wines $18-$55)
'12 Sauvignon Blanc, '11 Chardonnay, '12 Rosè of Pinot Noir, '11 Pinot Noir, '10 Pinot Noir - Rim Rock, '10 Estate Pinot Noir
Our traveling companions had visited Presqu'ile's tasting room in Los Olivos a few months prior and had spoken quite highly of the wines, so we decided to check them out and to have a look at their brand new winery complex out in Santa Maria. The grounds are gorgeous. The airy main building incorporates posh elements that are rare in the region, such as a member's only tasting room, and a wine cave that is only granted to higher level members.
The wines were impressive - it justified the highbrow atmosphere of the space. All were low alcohol compared to the region, between 12.9% and 13.6%. The Pinots were nicely varied - the Santa Maria Valley was peppery and meaty, the Rim Rock was circumspect (first time I've used that adjective in my tasting notes - check out the big brain on Brad!), and the estate was light with a cute little kick.
As much as we enjoyed the wines, I was a bit thrown by the exclusivity vibe at Presqu'ile. Members receive no discount on the wine - as far as I know, no other Santa Barbara area winery does that with their memberships. Members do receive free shipping on purchases, free tastings, and access to parts of the winery that non-member are restricted from - such as the special tasting room and the wine cave. I'll be interested to see if that strategy catches on with other wineries in the region.
Experience: B+ / Wines: B+

Based on the quality of wine being produced at the three very new wineries that we visited - Sandhi, Tyler, and Presqu'ile - it really feels like the Santa Barbara region is gaining momentum. Sure, it's been booming for awhile, catalyzed by "Sideways" and the general notion of wine tourism, but now there seems to be a stronger majority of wineries been created with very talented staff and deep-pocketed backers. I'm hopeful that this trend continues, but somehow without making the region more snooty and pricey.

November '12 Santa Barbara Trip - Near and Far

We decided to answer the siren call of Santa Barbara because we had a pickup party to go to at Ampelos - and because we just really wanted to go, and finally had some free time to do so. We went again with our excellent wine friends, and built a trip around checking out places we hadn't been to, and places we thought our friends should be introduced to.

Saturday (Foxen Canyon Rd. / Los Olivos)

foxen 7200 ($10 tasting, wines $26-$50)
'10 Sauvignon Blanc - Vogelzang, '10 Sangiovese - Williamson-Doré, '10 Cabernet Franc - Tinaquaic, '10 Merlot - Vogelzang, '09 Cabernet Sauvignon - Vogelzang

We made a plan to meet up with friends at foxen 7200. As it turns out, the tasting room is way the hell up Foxen Canyon Road, especially when there's some kind of bicycle race going on along Zaca Station Road. Foxen splits it's wines between two labels - Foxen proper is mostly Pinot, and foxen 7200 is bigger reds. As the winery became more successful, they built a larger tasting room, but decided to keep "The Shack" (which is about a quarter mile up the road from the Foxen facility) to have as a tasting room for the foxen 7200 wines.
The Shack certainly was funky, and there was a nice patio and a cool patio cat. The staff were all very happy and took care of us. Across the board, I didn't dig the wines enough to be able to think about buying any, especially considering how costly the bottles were. They were all single vineyard wines, were 100% made with the label grape, and had quality characteristics, but I wasn't a fan of the flavors. The Sauv and the Sangiovese were too tart, and the Merlot and Cab were too simple. The Cab Franc was interesting, but at $48, way too steep.
Experience: B / Wine: C+

Andrew Murray Vineyards ($15 reserve tasting, wines $16-$36)
'11 "RGB" (Roussane/Grenache Blanc), '10 Syrah "Tous les Jours", '10 "Espérance" (Grenache/Syrah/Mourvedre), '10 Syrah - Watch Hill, '09 "Eleven Red" (Cabernet Sauvingnon/Cabernet Franc/Tempranillo/Saniovese), '10 Grenache - Terra Bella, '10 Syrah - Thompson, '10 Syrah - Stolpman
I'd heard about Andrew Murray for a long time, he has a solid reputation in the area for Rhone-style wines. I've been wanting to visit for awhile - so when I finally was back in Los Olivos I made sure to swing by. Unfortunately, I think we chose a poor day to visit. It was busy as hell. Apparently it was the same day as the member party at the vineyard - so members were swinging through the tasting room to say hello.  The tasting room attendant was by herself tried very hard to take care of everyone, but definitely wasn't able to spend time elaborating on the wines or talking about the winery. The tasting room was very modern and chic. There were lots of things for sale - we noticed that there was a large display featuring scented candles for sale, which seemed quite odd in a wine tasting room.
The wines that we tasted were priced on a more reasonable scale than most Los Olivos tasting rooms, which is a big plus for me. Unfortunately, I didn't enjoy their wines very much. They all had an artificial quality, and were too simple. The "Eleven Red" was a pretty fun drink, and at $18, well-priced. The big bummer were two wines on the reserve list - the vineyard designated Grenache and the Stolpman Syrah. The Grenache had typical charactaristics - sweetness and edge, but did not weave together well. The Syrah was big clutter of flavor. I'm well acquainted with Stolpman's 2010 Syrahs, and it's interesting to see how different winemaking practices can come up with completely different products even when starting with very similar materials.
Since our visit was so marred by the crush in the tasting room, I think we should try to swing by in the future - but it'll be on "AMV" to convert me into a believer.
Experience: C- / Wines: C+

Sunday (Highway 246 / Los Olivos)

Clos Pepe Vineyards (tour $0, wines $23-$59)
'10 Estate Chardonnay "Hommage to Chablis", '10 Estate Chardonnay "Barrel Fermented", Axis Mundi '10 Grenache/Syrah - Windmill, '09 Estate Pinot Noir, '10 Estate Pinot Noir
Holy fuck - this is a fantastic tour. Wes Hagen is a superb host. I've heard very positive reviews of the Clos Pepe tour for quite a while - and had even looked into booking one last year, but found out that Wes had put the tours on hiatus. A few days prior to heading up for this trip, I thought it might be worth a shot to check and see if the tours were back online. Thankfully they were, and Wes did indeed have an opening for the Sunday of our visit. Here's how Wes described the tour in an email to me:
"Tour usually lasts until around noon or 12:30 - very geeky, very complete. You will learn more about wine in two hours than in your previous lifetime, guaranteed." 
Perhaps not everyone gets stoked about a tour like that - but I sure as hell do!
As advertised the tour was very exhaustive. Wes is extremely knowledgeable about wine and other things - and puts tons of energy in delivering that knowledge in a conversational and entertaining way. He discussed the history of wine, the unique geology of the region, farming techniques, wine making techniques, and lots lots more. At the end of the walk we were taken up to the "big house" where the owners of the winery live. Wes had set up a tasting for us with great cheeses and fresh breads. While he poured the wine samples, we had a great chat about food, politics, and of course wine.
After such an amazing tour and hosting, it would have been a shame if the wines weren't good - but they lived up to the caliber of the day. The two Chardonnays were very well balanced and were top notch quality. It was fun to compare the steel vs. oaked Chard. The steel aka "Hommage to Chablis" was easily more in my wheelhouse and indeed fantastic, but the oaked was built as a different wine and was a star in its own right. The Axis Mundi Grenache/Syrah blend was a neat everyday drinker. Wes actually served it chilled - which while odd - was a solid choice. An easy drinker chilled or not. The Pinots were what we came for and they were hype-worthy. The '09 was a more formal and classy specimen, and the '10 was a bit more audacious. Wes, in great detail, explained that there was a big difference in the weather for those two years. '09 was a great year for wine making in the area, especially for Pinots. '10 was a lot more difficult with a huge heat spike just before harvest. So the '10 was a more plushy and bold than it's predecessor. That being said the '10 was delicious as well, though I preferred the '09 hands down.
After finishing up the tour and tasting, Wes encouraged us to picnic by the pond on the edge of the property, among the willows and ducks. It was a peaceful end to an outstanding experience.
Experience: A+ / Wines: A

Qupé Wines (tasting $10, wines $18-$45)
Verdad '11 Grenache Rosé - Sawyer Lindquist, '11 Chenin Blanc, '11 Viognier - Ibarra-Young, '10 Grenache - Sawyer Lindquist, Verdad '09 Tempranillo - Sawyer Lindquist, Ethan '09 Sangiovese - Alisos, '09 Syrah - Sawyer Lindquist, '07 Syrah - Alisos
There's plenty of discussion around the idea that people's tastes for wines change over time. What once was thought to be a great wine can years later be considered okay. I'm not sure if that explains the shift in my feelings toward Qupé,  but it may have something to do with it. Not that I hated or even disliked the wines this time around, but I wasn't blown away by it as I was on my first visit, this time around it was more pedestrian.
The tasting room was pretty calm during this visit, mid-afternoon on a warm Sunday. The staff person was nice. Lots of stuff for sale on the walls.
The wines varied for me from decent to pretty good. I didn't find the Rosé or the Viognier to be very appealing. The Chenin Blanc was a nice drinker - well balanced citrus with cream. As on our first visit, I enjoyed the Tempranillo, which is normally a wine that I dislike quite a bit. Both Syrahs were pretty good - though the '09 was preferable. The wine prices were reasonably set for the area.
Not sure what exactly fell off for me with Qupé. Certainly I've done a look more wine tasting in the last year and a half - but I can't think that my tastes have changed that much. Perhaps its a case of too high expectations. It's no longer one of my top places to visit, but still a very solid joint.
Experience: B / Wines: B-

Dragonette Cellars (tasting $10, wines $25-$58)
'10 Sauvignon Blanc (Santa Ynez Valley), '11 Sauvignon Blanc (Happy Canyon), '11 Sauvignon Blanc - Grassini, '10 "Seven" (Syrah/Grenache/Mourvedre/Viognier), '10 "MJM" (Syrah/Grenache/Mourvedre/Viognier)
Perhaps it's on odd numbered visits that I really enjoy wineries. My above Qupé visit was my second, and I was underwhelmed. With Dragonette, I was a huge fan the first time, not as enamored the second time, and now on the third visit - quite impressed. Hopefully I'm not that arbitrary, and and justly reviewing these places.
I'm pretty sure that the thing that bugged me about Dragonette on my last visit, was that it was extremely busy, and the staff was running around frenetically. This time, we had the tasting room to ourselves, and the staff person was awesome and knowledgeable. Dragonette is a very young winery, and it appears to me that they are doing quite well. They were all sold out of their Rosé, their Pinot, and their regular GSM blend.
The wines that we did taste were artfully built. The three Sauvs were quite good, my preference was the Happy Canyon. It had the same brightness of the Santa Ynez, but also showed some minerality, which I'm always a sucker for. The Seven didn't blow me away, but it had qualities that it exhibited that bragged that it was a well built wine. The MJM - the Dragonette flagship wine - was a rockstar, super smooth. In my notes I labeled it as a "classy fellow." Dragonette's prices for their wines is a bit steep, but after tasting the wines the costs seem pretty just.
Experience: B+ / Wines: A-

Aside from the long ass drive up to Foxen while slaloming around the bicyclists, this was a banging trip. On Saturday, we got to see some great countryside, lounged at Stolpman at the end of the day, enjoyed the Ampelos pickup party, and checked out a solid Thai place in Lompoc - Herb Home. Sunday we were treated to the fantastic Clos Pepe, enjoyed a serene picnic, and ended our trip at Dragonette.
I am a bit concerned that I'm developing a bias against older wineries in Santa Barbara. I seem to be a fan of the young, upstart wineries, such as: Samsara, Peidrasassi, Ampelos, and Dragonette. And I have not enjoyed a number of established wineries: Andrew Murray, Zaca Mesa,  Au Bon Climat, to name a few. I'm wondering if it's because I'm buying into the "startup" narrative, or if the established wineries are not making wines that are exciting to me - but for a different audience. I guess I'll have to drink more wine to find out.
According to one tasting room employee, the time between Halloween and Thanksgiving is an excellent time to visit, because so many people avoid traveling at that time. It was super mellow throughout the area during our visit, so I'll plan on trying to swing back through during this time again next year.

June '12 Santa Barbara County Trip - Double Down

We've now been to the Santa Barbara Wine Country so many times that we've probably been to a majority of the wineries - and we have found several places that we really enjoy to visit. This time around we brought good friends who are also wine geeks, but hadn't been to the area, so we really wanted to show them some of our favorite places. So we figured we'd take them to the Wine Ghetto, and a couple of other other highlights in the area as well as check out a few places we hadn't been to before.

Saturday (Highway 246, Lompoc Wine Ghetto)

Dierberg & Star Lane Vineyards (wines $22-$80)
Star Lane '10 Sauvignon Blanc, Dierberg '09 Chardonnay, Dierberg '08 Pinot Noir, Dierberg '08 "Drum Canyon" Pinot Noir, Star Lane '07 Estate (Cab blend), Star Lane '05 Cabernet Sauvignon, Star Lane '06 "Astral" (Bordeaux blend)
By now we are very familiar with Dierberg. It's a solid place to visit - the setting is beautiful and the Dierbergs are talented winemakers. On our previous visit we purchased four bottles of the '09 Sauvignon Blanc because we liked it so much. We had hoped the would still have some in stock, but unfortunately had run out. The '10 Sauv that we tried on this visit was good, but did not hold a candle to its predecessor. Our favorite this time around was the Drum Canyon Pinot Noir - which I believe is their new vineyard right next to the winery.
Experience B / Wines B+

Melville Vineyards & Winery ($10 tasting, wines $26-$52)
'09 Chardonnay, '11 Chardonnay - Clone 76 Inox, '10 Pinot Noir, '10 Pinot Noir - "Carrie's", '10 "Verna's" Syrah
We'd been to Melville once - on our very first wine tasting trip. On that visit, we really enjoyed Melville, but we were curious if we'd dig it the same as the first time, or if as our wine intake increased - thereby making us more discriminating tasters - we'd find that Melville wasn't as great as we had previously though. Lo and behold Melville is still awesome, perhaps even more so that we previously thought. The grounds are great, with an Italian villa style structure, looking out onto the vineyard. We'd brought a picnic lunch, and one of the staff offered to have us sit on the patio, enjoy our lunch, and he'd bring our tasting out to us - quite the solid dude. Totally dug the wines. Prices weren't outlandish, and the baseline Chard and the Syrah were impressive. The wines that are being sold are younger that wines sold elsewhere in the area as far as I could tell - Melville has confidence in the taste of their wines right away and also state that they will age well. Who am I to doubt their recommendation? Their stuff is on point.
Experience B+ / Wines B+

Arcadian Winery ($15 tasting, wines $30-$65)
'06 Chardonnay - Sleepy Hollow, '07 Pinot Noir - Fiddlestix, '06 "Jill's Cuveé Pinot Noir, '06 Syrah - Westerly/Santa Ynez Valley, '06 Syrah - Stolpman, '04 Pinot Noir - Pisoni, '06 Syrah - Purisima
Arcadian is one of the newest additions to the Wine Ghetto, though owner and winemaker Joseph Davis has been creating wine under the Arcadian label since 1996. The wines come from the Santa Lucia Highlands up in Monterey County, as well as in a few different places in Santa Barbara County.  Each bottle that we tried were single vineyard designates. The woman at the tasting room was super stoked on the Arcadian wine, and her abundant enthusiasm was worrisome and infectious at the same time. The wines are all well built - each having unique characteristics but also fitting within a restrained paradigm. We were able to taste a few older vintages - the '04 Pinot was fan-tas-tic. Arcadian's median prices are a bit steep for me, but they are definitely a good addition to the Ghetto.
Experience B / Wines B+

Samsara Wine Company ($10 tasting, wines $22-$46)
'11 Grenache Rosé - Windmill Ranch, '10 Pinot Noir, '09 Pinot Noir - Turner, '09 Pinot Noir - Kessler-Haak, Syrah - Verna's
Our first and only visit to Samsara was over a year ago, and we enjoyed it that first time - especially the Rosé. This second time around, we were really impressed with all of their work. Samsara is a small production winery, putting out less than 1000 cases a year. Chad Melville, the owner, is very interested in natural production, relying upon native yeasts, and does not fine or filter the wine. The dude in the tasting room - Lee - is a super fun cat to chat with. He's very mellow, but also very passionate about wine. He's happy to discuss Samsara and Santa Barbara wine in-depth. The wines are playful, though not obnoxious. All were good, though we most enjoyed the Pinot from Kessler-Haak.
Experience B+ / Wines B+

Jalama Wines ($10 tasting, wines $26-$40)
'09 "Giallo" (Pinot Gris), '08 Pinot Noir, '10 Grenache - La Presa, '10 Mourvedre, '08 Syrah - La Presa, '08 Syrah - Paradise Road
Last year, Jalama was the winery that we were seeking out that drew us to the Wine Ghetto. It's one of two wine labels that are operated by Marc Cargasacchi, the other being the brand new Joseph Blair. We had hoped to visit both during this trip, but Marc was not available that day to run the Joseph Blair room, because a tractor broke down or something. So we had a fun time visiting with Christy at Jalama and plan on visiting the other label in the future. As before, the Jalama wines were very good. The Mourvedre was very fun to drink, and the La Presa Syrah really knocked my socks off.
Experience B / Wines B+

Sunday (Alamo Pintado Rd., Los Olivos)

Rideau Vineyard (tour, wines $18-$35)
'10 Viognier, '10 "Siempre" Albariño, '09 "FDL" Grenache, '07 "'FDL' Chateau Duplantier" (Syrah/Grenache/Mourvedre), '10 Riesling
I'd heard good things about Rideau from a few friends, and had planned on going at some point. So when Rideau ran a deal on Travelzoo I grabbed it. The deal was for two people to go on a tour, have a tasting and wine lesson, a cheese pairing, and a bottle of wine to boot. Our guide for the tour was the fantastic Shay. He took great pleasure in telling the history of Rideau, showing the vineyard and the winemaking area. During the pairing, he shared a lot of knowledge about wine appreciation and patiently answered everyone's questions. The force behind Rideau is Iris Rideau, who has had a long and successful career in the financial sector. She appreciated the Santa Ynez area, and was interested in restoring the old adobe bunkhouse that is now the winery. Shay toured us around the grounds, spending a lot of time discussing grape-growing, and a bit about the winemaking process. Rideau focuses largely on Rhone varietals. Their wines are well built - tasty and restrained - but lack excitement. Dug the Grenche most - did not enjoy the Riesling. Most of the wines were affordably priced. The grounds are quite nice, there is a large shaded lawn in the back with tons on seating for picnics. I'd recommend a visit, especially if you can get Shay to be your guide.
Experience A- / Wines B

Stolpman Vineyards ($10 tasting, wines $19-$68)
'10 Viognier, '09 "L'Avoin" (Roussanne), '10 Grenache, '10 "La Coppa" Sangiovese, '08 Sangiovese, '10 Syrah, '10 "High Density Hilltops" Syrah, '10 "Angeli" Syrah
The previous two times that we visited Stolpman, we've really enjoyed ourselves - somehow this time was even better. It was a lazy Sunday afternoon, and when we walked inside, an employee named Tom asked if we'd prefer to enjoy our tasting on the front patio. It was a beautiful day, and being able to enjoy Stolpman wine while watching folks passing by on the street was a fantastic way to spend the afternoon. Tom was a tremendous host, he was excited to discuss the wines and was able to answer my numerous in depth. I wasn't a huge fan on the whites, they were good wines, but they didn't tickle my fancy. However, the reds were all a hit with me. The Grenache was a really interesting wine - it was wispy slight, but still had a firm structure. The "Angeli" Syrah was awesome - Angeli is Stolpman's reserve wine. What's neat about their wines is that the wines that we were being served were young and could use some aging, but were good to drink right away.
Experience A / Wines A-

This trip reaffirmed our enthusiasm for the Santa Barbara region and likely made converts out of our first-time visiting friends. On each trip we take to the area, there is at least one or two places that really do a fantastic job of ensuring that we have a great time. The staff at the different wineries are often so friendly and passionate about the wine that it's impossible to not get caught up in the excitement. This time around, every place that we went to we had great conversations with winery staff - Lee at Samsara, Shay at Rideau, and Tom at Stolpman were standouts. Between the excellent people and the delicious wine, how doesn't one become a wine geek?

November '11 Santa Barbara County Trip - In Which We Meet a Legend

Since we had a free weekend, we decided to head up to the Santa Barbara wine country to visit a few wineries we hadn't been to before. As it worked out, the general theme of the trip was keystone winemakers. Ken Brown is the owner and winemaker Ken Brown Wines. Rick Longoria is the owner and winemaker at Longoria. Sashi Moorman is a partner/creator/winemaker at  Piedrasassi, one of the winemakers at Evening Land, and the winemaker at Stolpman. We planned to spend most of our trip at the Wine Ghetto - which now my favorite wine destination. It was an especially cool time of the year to visit, the Ghetto was a hive of activity. Wineries were receiving their grapes from the fields and were in the beginning stages of creating wine.


Saturday (Buellton, Highway 246, Lompoc)
Road Music: Florence and The Machine - Lungs

Ken Brown Wines ($10 private tasting, wines $35-$50)
'08 Nielson Vineyard Chardonnay, '08 Santa Maria Valley Pinot Noir, '08 Sta. Rita Hills Pinot Noir, '09 Clos Pepe Vineyard Pinot Noir, '08 "A" Cuvee Syrah.
Ken Brown has had an immense influence on the growth of the wine industry in Santa Barbara County. He began making wine in the area 35 years ago and was the head winemaker at Zaca Mesa and Byron before creating his own wine label. Tastings are by appointment only. We had an excellent time. Ken makes tremendous wine and is a wealth of knowledge. He shared wine growing techniques with us like we were old friends, and it was interesting to hear about the growth of the wine industry in the region during his career. Anyone who is at all interested in the essence of wine and seeing the passion that goes into making great quality wine should visit Ken Brown.
Experience: A+ / Wine: A

Piedrasassi / New Vineland Winery ($10 tasting, wines $26-$56)
New Vineland '09 Santa Barbara County Chardonnay, Piedrasassi '08 Central Coast White Wine, New Vineland '08 Santa Barbara County Syrah, Piedrasassi '08 Central Coast Syrah, Piedrasassi '08 Rim Rock Vineyard Syrah, Piedrasassi '06 Santa Ynez Valley Sangiovese Dessert Wine.
Piedrasassi is a super hip and funky place. Everything about their tasting room exudes style. The winery is pretty new and they have a very small distribution. Each wine was exciting to drink and were of high quality. The tasting was accompanied by their Syrah jelly on cheese and red wine vinegar and olive oil on heirloom tomatoes. We felt cooler and smarter for having visited.
Experience: B+ / Wine: B+

Evening Land Vineyards ($10 tasting, wines $25-$60)
'10 Chardonnay, '10 Etoile Pouilly-Fuisse Chardonnay - Burgundy, '09 Oregon Pinot Noir - Eola-Amity Hills, '09 Sonoma Pinot Noir - Occidental Vineyard, '09 Sta. Rita Hills Pinot Noir, '09 Sta. Rita Hills - The Tempest Vineyard.
Evening Land is moving their tasting room into a different space in the Wine Ghetto soon, so their current tasting room is no frills. The goal of Evening Land is exhibit how a specific place has an effect on wines. Evening Land makes wines from four distinct places: Burgundy France, Oregon, Sonoma, and Santa Barbara County. These distinctions are made through Chardonnay and Pinot Noir wines. All of the wines had good flavors, but were slightly short on length and complexity. We had a very nice conversation with the staff person there - she was very helpful.
Experience: B / Wine: B

Stolpman Vineyards - Lompoc Tasting Room ($10 tasting, wines $19-$68)
'10 Sauvignon Blanc, '09 'L'Avion' Roussanne, '10 'La Cuadrilla' (Syrah/Grenache/Petit Sirah/Viognier), '08 Estate Sangiovese, '09 "Originals" Syrah, '09 'Hilltops' Syrah, '09 'La Coppa' Sangiovese, '09 La Croce (Syrah/Sangiovese), '08 'Angeli' Sangiovese.
On the day of our trip, we learned that Stolpman had just opened their new tasting room in the Wine Ghetto. We'd visited Stolpman's Los Olivos tasting room back in April and were huge fans of their wines. The current setup of this tasting room overlooks the warehouse floor - and given that harvest is just completing we were able to watch the Stolpman team make new wine while we tasting their current wines. The tasting list had a number of Sangiovese's. The entry-level priced Sangio was very good, and the "La Croce" and "Angeli" were fantastic. Alicia was a great host.
Experience: B+ / Wine: A-

Sunday (Lompoc)
Road Music: Black Joe Lewis & The Honeybears - Scandalous

Longoria Winery - Lompoc Tasting Room ($10 tasting, wines $22-$48)
'10 Albariño - Clover Creek Vineyard, '08 Pinot Noir - Fe Ciega Vineyard, '09 Pinot Noir - Rancho Santa Vineyard, '09 Pinot Noir - Bien Nacido Vineyard, '04 Syrah - Alisos Vineyard.
Longoria also has two tasting rooms - one in Los Olivos and one in Lompoc. The Lompoc tasting room is attached to their winemaking facility. Christopher was kind enough to tour us around the warehouse and pointed out the different processes that were going on. We had a great time chatting with Christopher about a variety of topics and we enjoyed the wines that were on the tasting list. The three Pinots had unique differences - we enjoyed the Fe Ciega and Bien Nacido quite a bit. The Syrah was awesome as well.
Experience: A- / Wines: B+

After visiting a few other wine regions recently it was really nice to come back to SBC. There is such a true passion there that it's impossible to not get excited about wine. This was especially true when we visited with Ken Brown. He is one of the most influential people to the wine industry in the region - and he's willing to spend an hour just chatting with us and share with us his great knowledge. There's no ulterior motive there - he's a dude who's committed his life to wine and will share his love of wine purely. Experiences like that are truly unique, and I'm glad we were a part of it.

July '11 Santa Barbara County - Going Where We're Supposed To

The route for our third trip to SBC was pretty much written before we headed out. There were a number of wineries that were on our must try list: Fiddlehead, Alma Rosa, Beckmen, Qupe, and Dierberg Star Lane. These were all wineries that we had been told we had to see. It was nice to see that after visiting the area three times we were still able to find new wineries to enjoy. 
  
Friday (Lompoc Wine Ghetto)
Road Music: Radiohead - In Rainbows


Fiddlehead Cellars ($10 tasting, wines $22-$50)
'08 Sauvingnon Blanc - Happy Canyon, '04 "Hunnysuckle" Sauvignon Blanc, '10 "Goosebury" Sauvignon Blanc, '10 "Pink Fiddle" Pinot Noir Rosé, '07 "Seven Twenty Eight" Piinot Noir - Fiddlestix Vineyard, '07 "Oldsville Reserve" Pinot Noir - Willamette Valley.
Fiddlehead was high on my list of wineries to visit because I've heard great things about their wine. Our high expectations were not met. The Pinots were nice, but slightly too hot on one, and too flabby on the other. The Rosé was pretty good, but just pretty good. The tasting room staff person was not friendly or informative. This probably affected our opinion of the wines.  
Experience: C- / Wine: C+


Loring Wine Company ($10 tasting, wines $35-$45)
'09 Chardonnay - Sierra Mar Vineyard/Santa Lucia Highlands, '09 Pinot Noir - Shea Vineyard/Willamette Valley, '09 Pinot Noir - Keefer Ranch Vineyard/Russian River Valley, '09 Pinot Noir - Rosella's Vineyard/Santa Lucia Highlands, '09 Pinot Noir - Aubaine Vineyard/ San Luis Obispo County, '09 Pinot Noir - Cargasacchi Vineyard/Sta. Rita Hills, '09 Pinot Noir - Clos Pepe Vineayrd/Sta. Rita Hills, '09 Pinot Noir - Rancho La Viña/Sta. Rita Hills.
A tasting at Loring is interesting. They serve eight wines, seven of which are big flavor Pinots. The Pinots are served in geographic order, starting with furthest away (Oregon) - and ending with closest to the tasting room location (a few miles away). Each wine was unique from one another. That said, none of the wines were great and with all of the Pinots tagged at $45, not worth the price. 
Experience: B- / Wine: B-


Zotovich Cellars ($10 tasting, wines $28-$42)
'09 Chardonnay, '08 Pinot Noir, '10 Viognier, '08 Syrah.
Zotovich is a new winery and seems to be gaining acclaim. We weren't wowed during our visit. The Chardonnay was quite good, and the Syrah was pretty good. The Pinot and Viognier were not as enjoyable. While we were there a group of well lubricated middle-aged men who arrived in a limo dominated the attention of the one staff person - so we weren't able to learn much about the Zotovich wine making process. 
Experience: C+ / Wine: B-


Saturday (Santa Rosa Road, Buellton, Los Olivos)
Road Music: Easy Star All-Stars - Radiodread


Lafond Winery ($10 tasting, wines $22-$48)
'08 Chardonnay, '07 Estate Chardonnay, '08 Pinot Noir, '08 Pinot Noir - Arita Hills Vineyard, '06 Pinot Noir - Lafond Vineyard, '09 Syrah.
We did not expect much from Lafond. We chose it because it was on the same road near as Alma Rosa. We were thanking our random luck after our visit, because it was an excellent stop for us. We enjoyed the full roster of wines. The Chardonnay, '06 Pinot, and Syrah were the standouts. Lafond really rolls out the red carpet for visitors. They had an awesome complementary spread of cheese, meat, fruit, and sweets to pair with the wines. Our favorite part about Lafond was Diane. She was extremely nice, passionate, and helpful. Lafond is one of the oldest wineries in the region - and it seems that they have great confidence in their wine and their customer service.
Experience: A- / Wine: B+


Alma Rosa Winery & Vineyards ($15 for Pinot only tasting, wines $32-$43)
'08 Pinot Noir - La Encantada Vineyard Clone 115, '08 Pinot Noir - Sta. Rita Hills, '07 Pinot Noir - Sta. Rita Hills, '08 Pinot Noir - La Encantada Vineyard, '09 Pinot Noir - La Encantada Clone 667.
The Sanfords - who own Alma Rosa - are basically the first family of this wine region. They began planting Pinot Noir in 1970. After separating from Sanford Winery in 2005, they created Alma Rosa in their minds eye. They create organic and sustainable wine. We had a choice of a mixed tasting with a variety of wines for $10, or a Pinot Noir only flight for $15. We went with the Pinot flight. The bummer was that our friends decided to go with the mixed flight, so they were served in a different area from us, which was kind of annoying that we couldn't hang out. The grounds are funky and cool - though a bit crowded when we were there. Our pourer was not knowledgeable about the wines unfortunately. It was fun to see Chris Burroughs, the Tasting Room Manager, who had a role in "Sideways." We dug each wine. There were interesting differences between them and each had high quality. The '07, '08 La Encantada, and the '09 were our favorites.
Experience: B- / Wines: B+


Cold Heaven Cellars ($10 tasting)
'09 Viognier - Santa Ynez Valley, '09 Viognier - Le Bon Climat Vineyard, '09 Viognier - Sanford & Benedict Vineyard, '07 Domaine des Deux Mondes "Saints and Sinners" Viognier, '09 "Makepeace" Pinot Noir, '09 "Nevertell" Pinot Noir, '03 "Second Sin" Syrah, '03 Late Harvest Viognier.
Cold Heaven is known for Viognier, which is a nice departure from the norm in the region. The tasting room was in a state of disarray while we were there. Apparently the manager had just quit, and the staff person there was trying to figure out how to deal with everything. Withstanding that, the wine was very nice. It was nice to visit a winery that put a lot of energy into making good quality white wine. 
Experience: C+ / Wines: B


Beckmen Vineyards ($10 tasting, wines $16-$39)
'10 Sauvignon Blanc, '09 Le Bec Blanc (Rossanne, Marsanne, Grenache Blanc), 09 Cuvee Le Bec (Grenache, Syrah, Mourvedre, Counoise), '09 Syrah, '09 Grenache - Purisima Mountain Vineyard.
Beckmen has a really good reputation. They are 100% biodynamic, which is huge undertaking and in my opinion makes better wine. They have a rambling property with picnic areas looking over a small pond. The staff there were not engaging, which put a damper on the experience. We had a choice between a regular $10 flight and a $15 reserve flight. We chose the regular flight. The wines on the regular list were nicely priced. We dug all of the wine especially the Syrah and the Grenache. 
Experience: C+ / Wines: B+

Qupé Winery ($10 tasting)
Verdad '10 Albariño, '10 Viognier, '10 Marsanne, '08 Chardonnay, Verdad '08 Tempranillo, '09 Grenache, Ethan '09 Syrah, '05 Syrah.
Qupé is a very solid winery. They are also one of the original wineries of the region. We enjoyed all of the wines on the tasting list. They host three wine labels: Verdad - for their Spanish wines, Ethan - for wines created by Ethan Linquist, the second generation of the owners, and Qupé. The Albariño, and the '05 Syrah were the standouts. It was a busy day and the staff were efficiently handling customers. The guy that took care of us was really low key, verging on uninterested. 
Experience: B / Wines: A-


Sunday (Highway 246)


Dierberg & Star Lane Vineyards ($10 tasting, wines $20-$80)
Star Lane '08 Sauvignon Blanc, Star Lane '09 Sauvignon Blanc, Dierberg '08 Chardonnay, Dierberg '07 Pinot Noir, Star Lane '07 Merlot, Star Lane '06 Cabernet Sauvignon, Star Lane '05 Cabernet Sauvignon, Star Lane '06 "Astral" Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve.
Of all of the wineries that we visited on this trip Dierberg was our favorite - which is saying a lot. The tasting room is a funky farmhouse brightly painted. The staff were very helpful. They spoke in depth and at a level that suited our experience level with wine. The winery has two labels. Dierberg produces the Chardonnay and Pinot Noir from a vineyard near Santa Maria. Star Lane produces Sauvignon Blanc, Merlot, and Cabernet Sauvignon from their warmer weather Happy Canyon location. Each wine aside from the Chard were unique, complex, and tasty. We really enjoyed the Merlot and all of the Cabs. 
Experience: B+ / Wines: A-


Another fine weekend spent in Santa Barbara County. Qupé and Dierberg Star Lane really blew us away, Lafond and Cold Heaven were great finds, Alma Rosa and Beckmen were good - though slightly below our high expectations. The mellow mood of the wineries and the opportunity to learn from the staff sets the region apart from others.