Frog's Leap Winery (member tasting, wines $30-$75)
'12 Chardonnay, '11 Zinfandel, '11 Merlot, '11 Cabernet Sauvignon, '10 Rutherford Cabernet Sauvignon
I had such an amazing visit the first time I was at Frog's Leap, there's no way that experience could have been beat. I wouldn't say that I was underwhelmed this time, but let's just put the experience at the "whelmed" level. We accompanied friends who were members this time around. One sure piece of advice that I have is: go on the tour. This time around we had the table tasting, which was nice - but the tour's top-notch, it's a must do, a can't miss... what I'm saying is: go do the tour. Regardless the regular tasting was good. We had a lovely table by the lawn, blankets in case we got cold, and snack plates to accompany the wines. One of the things that I've noticed about Frog's Leap is their attention to detail. They were so attentive that my lactose intolerant ass got a special plate sans cheese but plus additional fruit and crackers. Our table had a lovely view of the vineyard. We enjoyed watching the winery dog, Abby, goof off with a visitor's french bulldog puppy. Initially we were well attended to, staff would come by in regular intervals to bring us the next tasting. Toward the end of the tasting though, the service did taper off. It became difficult to locate a staff person to ask questions about the various wines, and to try to revisit. Eventually we decided to wander the sprawling grounds. We wandered by the chickens and the pond, we wandering into the barn - which luckily enough had a bar attendant that poured us more wine. It was a nice way to spend the morning, though not as enriching or as personable as the tour.
I had such an amazing visit the first time I was at Frog's Leap, there's no way that experience could have been beat. I wouldn't say that I was underwhelmed this time, but let's just put the experience at the "whelmed" level. We accompanied friends who were members this time around. One sure piece of advice that I have is: go on the tour. This time around we had the table tasting, which was nice - but the tour's top-notch, it's a must do, a can't miss... what I'm saying is: go do the tour. Regardless the regular tasting was good. We had a lovely table by the lawn, blankets in case we got cold, and snack plates to accompany the wines. One of the things that I've noticed about Frog's Leap is their attention to detail. They were so attentive that my lactose intolerant ass got a special plate sans cheese but plus additional fruit and crackers. Our table had a lovely view of the vineyard. We enjoyed watching the winery dog, Abby, goof off with a visitor's french bulldog puppy. Initially we were well attended to, staff would come by in regular intervals to bring us the next tasting. Toward the end of the tasting though, the service did taper off. It became difficult to locate a staff person to ask questions about the various wines, and to try to revisit. Eventually we decided to wander the sprawling grounds. We wandered by the chickens and the pond, we wandering into the barn - which luckily enough had a bar attendant that poured us more wine. It was a nice way to spend the morning, though not as enriching or as personable as the tour.
The pouring list was shorter than my prior visit, though my wife was able to score us a taste of the Reserve Cabernet. It's become her calling card to ask for special pourings. As before, the wine was delicious. The Chardonnay was bright and balanced. The Zinfandel had pillowy peppers and bright acid. While a bit too mainstream, the Merlot still showed some nice green notes. The regular Cab was a bit tight but promised lovely dust and tart blackberries. The Reserve Cab was tremendous - chocolate dust, dark and quiet, ripe green beans, tart red fruit jam. Easily the Reserve Cab was the best of the bunch, but if buying within my budget, I'd go with the Zinfandel.
'12 Sauvignon Blanc, '11 Chardonnay, '09 Chardonnay,'10 Cabernet Sauvignon, '09 Estate Cabernet Sauvignon
I got a bad feeling about Chateau Montelena at the very beginning of our visit. As you walk from the parking lot to the tasting room, there is the iconic castle-style facade, pretty - yes I agree - but apparently a magnet for tourists. The winery had a photo guy posted up to take people's pictures in front of the castle for purchase - like on a cruise ship. I guess I shouldn't hold it against Chateau Montelena for doing that, obviously folks are going to take the pictures regardless, but a definite strike against the place for soaking up tourist bucks at the first opportunity. Once we got up to the entrance, were led past a good number of tasting counters. There were a probably fifteen different tasting counters that we walked past with attendees and patrons trying the wines. Eventually we made it to an open space where a super bouncy young dude warmly greeted us. He was a well meaning fella, but he lacked skill. He started off by asking us if we were familiar with the film "Bottle Shock" - while pointing to a handful of photos on the wall showing the movie that was filmed at Chateau Montelena. "That's the movie that's about us beating the Frenchies at the wine competition a while back" he said. He happily poured us through the list of wines, but he was not as knowledgeable or classy as the tasting room staff that I've interacted with at other Napa wineries.
The wines were well crafted, yet overt. The Sauvignon Blanc was zippy, had tropical candy notes, and showed late heat. The '09 Chardonnay was more impressive, subtle and complex than the '11. The top dog for us was this '09 Cabernet. It was a bit of a jock wine, but it filled the flavor spectrum well - cola, pepper, green leaves. It was complex and juicy, a quintessential Cali wine. The wines were good quality but too pricey.
'12 Chenin Blanc, '10 Viognier, '12 Petite Sirah, '11 Cabernet Sauvignon, NV Port (Petite Sirah/Mourvèdre), '12 Late Harvest Riesling
I've never had so many people independently recommend a winery as much as people suggested that I try Lava Vine. Upon our arrival, I soon understood why. It's a funky old farmhouse building at a crossroads. Inside was a jovial crew with a number of well imbibed patrons. It is in ways the anti-Napa - shabby chic, irreverent, and friendly. And for that, I respect it. The guys working the counter were beyond friendly, and pretty knowledgeable. The space looked comfortable, though since it was really crowded we had to jockey for space.
I had really looked forward to visiting Lava Vine, it was indeed my kind of space. But part of me feels like if it wants to be the anti-Napa, it shouldn't be in Napa. Already they are using some grapes from regions outside of Napa (North Coast, Suisun Valley), and given their expensive zip code, they are charging a relatively steep price for less-premier varietals. Lava Vine is like visiting one of the ultra hip Santa Barbara or Amador wineries. I guess if I didn't frequent those other places I'd be more excited about finding Lava Vine. Perhaps when I visit Napa, as much as I loath the stuffiness, I want to go to Napa-style places.
The wines were compelling. The flavors were distinct and authentic. Some of the wines were well orchestrated, and others were a little bit off, but still enjoyable. The two whites were unique, and had interesting layers that didn't play off perfectly for me, perhaps a bit too rambunctious. I enjoyed the Petite Sirah - darkly distinct with intricate herbal notes, and well balanced. The Cab was fun, macho and vibrant, and it had a tight grip. The dessert wines were both off-balance for me. The Port was enjoyable in the beginning, but then the back-end was too harsh. The Riesling was singularly toned, though it had a quality flavor.
Experience: B+ / Wines: B
The wines were compelling. The flavors were distinct and authentic. Some of the wines were well orchestrated, and others were a little bit off, but still enjoyable. The two whites were unique, and had interesting layers that didn't play off perfectly for me, perhaps a bit too rambunctious. I enjoyed the Petite Sirah - darkly distinct with intricate herbal notes, and well balanced. The Cab was fun, macho and vibrant, and it had a tight grip. The dessert wines were both off-balance for me. The Port was enjoyable in the beginning, but then the back-end was too harsh. The Riesling was singularly toned, though it had a quality flavor.
Experience: B+ / Wines: B
Ceja Vineyards ($10 tasting, wines $20-$50)
'09 Chardonnay, '09 Pinot Noir, '09 "Vino de Case" Red Blend (Pinot Noir/Syrah), '09 Merlot, '08 Cabernet Sauvignon, '10 Syrah
We were serenaded by a gorgeous sunset as we made our way back down the Silverado Trail to hotel in Napa. Not quite ready for dinner we decided to strike out to one of the urban tasting rooms in downtown. An old friend of mine who lived in Napa had suggested Ceja to me awhile back - he's familiar with the family and thinks they're great folks - so we popped in to see what was going on. The space had a variety of seat areas - a long bar, tables with chairs, and couches .It was pretty packed when we first got there, and the staff seemed a bit frantic, but eventually things settled down, and we were able to have a nice conversation while we were there. The staff person who attended to us was knowledgeable about the wine, and proud of the Ceja family and the wine that they offered.Ceja is a unique winery. It's owned a run by a proud Mexican-American family. Throughout the tasting room and on their website, there is a large amount of info about the family and Latino culture. Considering that almost all wineries in California are hugely dependent on folks that are either first or second generation Central Americans, it's refreshing to see a winery that touts it's heritage rather than ignoring it. What I like about Ceja is that it is celebrating itself, without seeming to need to eschew it's Napa-ness. It is an original that feels comfortable with its locale.
The tasting fee covered four wines, selected from a list of eight. Some in our group did the wine and chocolate pairing, which they renjoyed. I'd say that the wines varied from pretty good to very good. The Chardonnay was a bit tight, though had enjoyable acid.The red blend was nicely priced at $20, and was an easy sipper with a bit of a kick. The Merlot was the wine that demanded my attention - good variety and depth, exciting acid, a fun drink. The Syrah I found too dense. All of the wines were flavorful and authentic.
Experience: B / Wines: B+
The second time around for me, and I'm still a bit dubious of Napa. I've mused about visiting the hulking monolithic wineries, such as Sterling, Beringer, Robert Mondavi, etc. I hoped (hope) that since those place are so big that they would put on a good show. But Chateau Montelena makes me check back that hope. It was a soulless experience. Sure, wine tasting and wineries are commercial beasts, but I've had countless real experiences at wineries outside of Napa.
I am however thankful for the authentic places, which I will continue to seek out. Frog's Leap is hugely popular, and is widely distributed, but they manage to stay whimsical. Lava Vine is very friendly and definitely wants to hold onto it's renegade image. And Ceja's just plain real. I'm sure their a numerous other real wineries in Napa, it just may be a bit difficult to find them amongst the tourist traps.
The second time around for me, and I'm still a bit dubious of Napa. I've mused about visiting the hulking monolithic wineries, such as Sterling, Beringer, Robert Mondavi, etc. I hoped (hope) that since those place are so big that they would put on a good show. But Chateau Montelena makes me check back that hope. It was a soulless experience. Sure, wine tasting and wineries are commercial beasts, but I've had countless real experiences at wineries outside of Napa.
I am however thankful for the authentic places, which I will continue to seek out. Frog's Leap is hugely popular, and is widely distributed, but they manage to stay whimsical. Lava Vine is very friendly and definitely wants to hold onto it's renegade image. And Ceja's just plain real. I'm sure their a numerous other real wineries in Napa, it just may be a bit difficult to find them amongst the tourist traps.
