December '12 Santa Barbara Trip - Quality Family Time


Usually for the holiday festivities we head back to Northern California, this year some of our family decided to converge on LA instead. Since I've been talking up Santa Barbara wineries for awhile, my brother and sister-and-law who were in from NY insisted that we take them to some wineries during their visit. So we knew that we had to take them to a few of our favorites and try to sneak in a few that we hadn't tried before as well.  


 

 Saturday (Buellton / Los Olivos)

Ken Brown Winery ($10 tasting, wines $35-$55)
'10 Chardonnay - Nielson, '11 Pinot Noir (Santa Barbara County), '10 Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills), '10 Pinot Noir - Clos Pepe, '09 Pinot Noir - Cargasacchi, '09 "A" Cuvee Syrah
Since Ken Brown is a critical figure in the expansion of the wine industry - especially Pinot Noir - in Santa Barbara, he was an obvious choice to share with my brother and SIL. This was our second visit, and it was slightly less exciting than our first. The first time around we had Ken all to ourselves, which was awesome. This time there was another group of four, so it was harder to have an in-depth a conversation. Just the same, Ken was a friendly host once again.
The wines were slightly less exciting this time around - still great, but not "socks blowing off" amazing. All were well balanced, exhibited friendly fruit, but not overly so. The Santa Barbara County Pinot was quite impressive, nice acids, and good structure. My favorite was the Cargasacchi Pinot - it had a fantastic nose, a candy-like zip, some darkness to the flavor, and good grip.
Experience: B+ / Wines: A-

Buttonwood Farm Winery and Vineyard ($10 tasting, wines $14-$26)
'11 Grenache Blanc, '09 Marsanne, '10 Sauvignon Blanc "Signature", '11 Syrah Rosé, '08 Merlot, '09 Syrah, '07 Cabernet Sauvignon, '09 Cabernet Franc, '10 Malbec, '10 Syrah Port "P.O.S.H."
I've been thinking about swinging by Buttonwood for awhile. It's an independent organic winery with moderately priced wine that seems to have their own take on things - which are favorable characteristics in my book. Unfortunately those characteristics did not add up to a great experience. The tasting room had counters on both sides of the building, with a bunch of merchandise in the middle. Being a holiday weekend, there was not a lot of space left at the counter, and the staff person that attended to us did not seem excited to have more customers. She poured the wines quickly and gave little background and generally didn't engage us. They poured ten(!) different wines - none were very good. Across the board the wines were clunky and simple. My favorite note was on the Marsanne, I called it a "jank oakfest." The Merlot was quite a mess as well - overt sulfur and poor structure. My favorite was the Cab Franc.
Experience: C / Wines: C-

Kaena Wine Company ($10 tasting, wines $25-$38)
'11 "Hapa Blanc" (Grenache Blanc/Rousanne), '09 "Look me in the Eye" Grenache, '10 Grenache, '10 Grenache - Tierra Alta, '09 "Hapa Red" (Syrah/Grenache/Mourvedre)
Kaena's a pretty new winery. The guy behind it is also the head winemaker at Beckmen, so he  knows his stuff. I'm also a big fan of Grenache, and since it's their main grape, I figured it would be good to check them out. The space is quite sleek with a huge wrap-around counter and a couch area. There was a bit of a unique rocker vibe to the place. During our visit there was a huge family group there, and the staff person had to move quickly to keep up. She was friendly through the fray and was happy to share Kaena wine with folks.
The wines were definitely friendly and fruity - overly so. I really admire good Grenache, when it's done well its sweetness is tempered and allows complexity to slip through, but it's easy to let it be sticky sweet and slight. That's not to say that the Grenaches here were bad news - but they were a bit too sticky and clunky. The reds were a bit high in alcohol - 15.3, 14.9, 15.1, and 15.3. I enjoyed the Hapa Red most, but it too was overly sweet.
Experience: B- / Wines: B-

Byron Wines ($10 tasting, wines $22-$45)
'10 Pinot Blanc, '08 Chardonnay "Stainless Steel", '08 Chardonnay (Santa Maria Valley), '06 Chardonnay "Wente Clone", '10 Pinot Noir (Santa Maria Valley), '10 Pinot Noir "Julia's Vineyard", '07 "IO" Syrah - Whitehawk Vineyard
While visiting Ken Brown earlier in the day, he encouraged us to visit Byron.  He actually started Byron in 1984 (Ken Brown's first name is Byron), grew that business, and then moved on when he decided he wanted to mellow his life out. I had avoided going to Byron in the past because it's owned by Kendall-Jackson. I've assumed that the fact that it's owned by a huge conglomerate means that it creates sub-par wine, but Ken Brown assured me this was not the case. Apparently the conglomerate lets the creative team at Byron direct themselves, which apparently means that they create kick-ass stuff. I'd rather not give love to a big corporation, but sometimes hulking monoliths do something right.
The tasting room is comforting and classy at the same time. As well the staff were very friendly. The first (Pinot Blanc) and last (Syrah) wines were just pretty good, which makes them the laggards of the group. All of the Chards and the Pinots were very good. Well built, restrained, and a variety of flavors. I especially enjoyed the Wente Clone Chard - calm, citrus, and tropical fruit.
Experience: B+ / Wines: B+

Stolpman Vineyards (member tasting, wines $19-$66)
'09 "L'Avion" Rousanne, '09 Sangiovese, '10 "La Coppa" Sangiovese, '10 "La Cuadrilla" (Syrah/Petite Sirah), '10 "Originals" Syrah, '10 "Hilltops High Density" Syrah, '09 Sangiovese "degli Angeli", '10 "La Crocé" (Syrah/Sangiovese), '02 Merlot
Clearly we can't bring new folks on a visit to the area without stopping by at Stolpman. We actually visited twice on this trip, the first evening in Los Olivos, and the next morning in Lompoc. I am consistently blown away by how great their staff is, and how solid their wine is.
We were a very rambunctious group by the time that we got to Stolpman on Saturday night. But Brian rolled out the red carpet and treated us very well. The tasting list included many of the Stolpman big hitters (showing off the pricey wines during the holidays) like the La Crocé and the Sangio degli Angeli. The Sangioveses and the La Crocé were really knocking me out that day.
Our visit the next morning was equally awesome. Tom was a great host, and since it was a quiet morning we were able to chat with him for quite awhile.
Experience: A+ / Wines: A-

Sunday (Lompoc Wine Ghetto)

Samsara Winery ($10 tasting, wines $22-$46)
'11 Grenache Rosé - Windmill Ranch, '09 Pinot Noir - Rancho La Viña, '09 Pinot Noir - Turner, '10 Pinot Noir - Kessler-Haak, '08 Syrah - Ampelos
Odds are, if we go to the Wine Ghetto, we're going to stop by Samsara. Lee's always a cool dude to visit with, and the wines always impress. it was an especially mellow morning, and Lee was happy to chat and even take photos of us in front of the wine barrels. The winery seems to march to it's own beat. The wine stock is always shifting, and they aren't interested in selling merchandise or memberships. I get a big kick out of that vibe.
The wines were very good once again, well balanced. Samsara wines are quite full-flavored, probably because they include the stems during the winemaking process, thereby adding more tannins and flavor. The Rosé was quite nice - though we pine for the Pinot Rosé that they had a few years back. The Kessler-Haak Pinot was the standout once again.
Experience: B+ / Wines: B+

Flying Goat Cellars ($10 tasting, wines $20-$42)
'10 Sparkling Pinot Noir Rosé, 09 "Goat Bubbles" Blanc de Blancs - Sierra Madre, '10 Pinot Gris - Sierra Madre, '09 Pinot Noir - Solomon Hills, '09 Pinot Noir "Clone 2A" - Rio Vista, '08 Pinot Noir - Salisbury Vineyard
We visited Flying Goat a long time ago. I didn't enjoy our first visit, but I figured that it would be fair to give them another shot.  My experience level is higher, so I thought that that I may be able to appreciate them more. NOPE. The reason that I didn't like Flying Goat the first time around is the same reason I didn't like them the second time. They are snotty. It's odd that their motto is "wine without pretense." We did not feel welcomed there, and at the end of our tasting the staff person there asked us "What wine will you be taking home with you today?" I'm really not a fan of the hard sell, and generally wineries manage to avoid this techniques. Thankfully, the wines were better than the experience. The Pinots were all pretty good, though a bit slight and also overpriced.
Experience: D / Wines: C+

After a short visit we discovered one new great winery - Byron, one to keep an eye on - Kaena, and one that I'm sure now can be taken off the list - Flying Goat. We were very happy that our traveling companions enjoyed Stolpman, Samsara, and Ken Brown as much as we do. I was a bit fearful that traveling up to the area on the weekend after Christmas would be a headache, but aside from a few wineries that were a bit busy, it wasn't a problem at all.