This is actually the third leg of a our holiday journey. First we explored the Sierra Foothills, then made a brief stop off in Monterey when visiting friends, and finally getting back to our home region, Santa Barbara. Actually, this final leg was it was a work day for my wife, and a kick it with friends day for me. Since my wife had to stop in Santa Barbara for work purposes, I was joined some LA friends to explore a few of the tasting rooms in the Santa Barbara Funk Zone. I've dropped in on the Funk Zone a few times before, but had never dedicated a full day to it, so I was excited to spend some quality time with friends while exploring. Needless to say, my wife was less than excited that she had to work while all this was going on.
Riverbench Vineyard (tasting $12, wines $24-$48)
'13 "Bedrock" Chardonnay, '13 Estate Chardonnay, '11 "Chapel View" Chardonnay, '11 Reserve Chardonnay, '12 Estate Pinot Noir, '11 Reserve Pinot Noir, '12 "Mesa" Pinot Noir, '11 "One Palm" Pinot Noir
Riverbench has a good reputation. Their winemaker, Clarissa Nagy, is highly considered in the area. Her husband is the winemaker at Byron, and I get the sense that they have a collaborative partnership. The primary focal points for Riverbench are Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and bubbly wines made with Chardonnay and/or Pinot Noir.
Since their actual winery is way up on the northern edge of the region, I was glad that they opened a new tasting room in the Funk Zone, making it a bit easier for us to access. The tasting room was chic and sleek. The staff were fine, though not terribly engaging. There were a handful of different tasting options, we chose the "Chardonnay, Up, Up and Array" and the "Pinot Noir All Star" flights. The Chardonnays were all enjoyable and they had nice diversity from one another. The Bedrock was 100% fermented in steel tanks, while the other three were aged in varying amounts of new French oak barrels.The Reserve was my favorite of the four that we tried, and at $32, a decent price point for a quality Chardonnay the region. The Pinots were also nicely varied - there were some neat flavor characteristics such as green olives in the Estate bottling and pencil shavings in the Reserve. The "Mesa" and the "One Palm" were a little too fruit forward for my tastes.
Experience: B- / Wines: B+
Whitcraft Winery (tasting $12, wines $40-$60)
'13 Sierra Madre Chardonnay, '13 Pinot Noir - Pence Ranch, '13 Pinot Noir - Presqu'ile, '09 Pinot Noir - Morning Dew Vineyard (Anderson Valley), '09 Syrah - Stolpman, '12 Syrah - Clover Creek
There are a handful of Santa Barbara urban tasting rooms that predate the Funk Zone. Whitcraft is one of those old timers, having been established in 1985. Their tasting room isn't too far from the Funk Zone, though it was a little bit more of a walk than I expected. They are in a strange little industrial nook close to the ocean, but kinda distant from most stuff.
Whitcraft was recommended to me by Wes Hagen, formerly of Clos Pepe. Since Wes suggested it, and I sort of worship Wes, I made damn sure that I visited it when I had the chance. The tasting room was quite small, and nothing at all fancy, pleasantly not image-conscious. The tasting room guy was super friendly and proud of the wines that he was pouring.
Like Wes Hagen, Drake Whitcraft does his own thing. His wines are made with as little intervention as possible - not fined or filtered, light use of sulfur and uses no other chemicals. All of the red wines are made with whole-cluster fermentation, meaning that the stems and skins are included during the fermentation process, leading to rich and full-bodied flavors.
And these were definitely some big bad wines to drink. The one white that we tried, the Chardonnay, was quite bright and textured. All three Pinots were flavorful and fun. The Sierra Madre was lightest in body, though still masculine. It was my favorite of the three, the other two were good but a bit too much bombast. I enjoyed both of the Syrahs, probably the Stolpman more as it was a bit more restrained. Across the board I thought that the wines were adventurous and enjoyable. However, they were too pricey for me to purchase.
Experience: B / Wines: B
Municipal Winemakers (tasting $10, wines $25-$50)
'13 "Bright Red" (Grenache/Cinsault/Counoise/Syrah/Mourvèdre), '13 Grenache, '13 Pinot Noir - Santa Rita Hills, '13 "MCS" (Mourvèdre/Carignan/Syrah), '10 "The End" (Grenache/Syrah)
I had visited Municipal once before, just over a year ago when in town for a wedding. The first time I was intrigued by the place, though I thought the wine was just ok. But, I dug the feel the first time, so I wanted to give in another shot.
I won't go into detail about the decor, just imagine a winery designed by Wes Anderson. So that's to be enjoyed. However, the two shortcomings of the winery the first time that I was there was the service and the wine. And in this visit, the same two things were lacking. Once again the folks working at the tasting room were indifferent about what they were doing there, which is kind of a bummer. And once again the wine was not great, actually in some cases, hard to enjoy - and it makes me very sad when wine isn't enjoyable to drink. The "Bright Red" and "The End" were quaffable, but that's about it. The Grenache was my least favorite, too syrupy, sharp and overt.
Experience: B- / Wines: C-
Kunin Wines (tasting 10?, wines $26-$45)
'13 Sauvignon Blanc - McGinley Vineyard, '13 "Pape Star" White Rhone Blend (Grenache Blanc/Roussanne), '13 Viognier - Camp 4 Vineyard, '13 Carignan - Camp 4 Vineyard, '13 "Pape Star" Red Rhone Blend (Grenache/Syrah/Mourvèdre), '08 Syrah - Alisos Vineyard, '13 Zinfandel - Paso Robles
Wine is obviously a yuppie pursuit, especially so when actively going to taste wines. However, I still find it off-putting when I come across wine tasting rooms that are overly pretentious. I know that it's ridiculous to be surprised by stuffiness at wineries, but there are times when I am honestly caught off guard by it. Kunin was definitely haughty, perhaps one of the haughtiest joints I've ever visited. I think it was more the customers than the staff, though the staff weren't all that warm or down-to-earth either.
I was a bit mixed about the wines. Most had good aspects, but most also had less-enjoyable aspects. The Sauvignon Blanc reeked of cat pee (I acknowledge that's considered a positive aspect in some white wines but in this instance it was too heavy to be enjoyable), but was nice and simple on the palate. The Viognier was too syrupy and sharp. The Carignan had a very interesting aroma - rainforest - but was overly sweet. The red Rhone blend flavors came off too juicy and just inauthentic. The Zinfandel was the most interesting - celery and white pepper nose, juicy though balanced, maybe too much heat, but interesting tartness.
Experience: C / Wines: C+
The Funk Zone is definitely it's own animal in comparison to the further afield Santa Barbara wine region. It's definitely seeking to attract folks, and given the quick growth that it's experiencing, it is likely succeeding. I think what's working for it is it's diversity. We went from the quietly confident Riverbench, to the brassy Whitcraft, to the absurd Municipal, and finally to the haughty Kunin, all within a square mile. When it comes to wine, the Funk Zone probably has you covered. And if the first three places that you visit aren't a fit, there's another place for you to check out right across the street.
