April '12 Paso Robles Trip - Happy Birthday to Me

Leading up to a momentous birthday of mine, I knew that I wanted to enjoy the hell out of the celebration with good friends, and go somewhere new. Growing up in Northern California, I'd taken a number of trips along the Central Coast, but haven't been through the area in a long time. I'd heard a lot about the wines of Paso, and I've been very interested to check the region out. The region seemed pretty spread out as I started planning the trip, so I stuck to wineries on the west side of the 101, and even then, wineries that were either near Vineyard Dr. or in the Westside portion of the region.

Friday (Southwest)

L'Aventure Winery ($10 tasting, wines $25-$85)
'10 Rosé (Syrah/Cab), '10 "Optimus" (Syrah/Cab/Petit Verdot), '09 "Plus 16" (Mourvédre/Cab/Syrah), '09 Côte á Côte (Grenache/Syrah/Mourvédre), '09 Estate Cuvée (Syrah/Cab/Petit Verdot)
Owner and winemaker Stephan Asseo started out making wine in the Bordeaux region of France. Eventually he relocated to Paso Robles so that he could be more experimental with his wines.  Each wine is a red blend, but each has a different take. There were a few weird things about the tasting. The wines were really young, though the staff recommended that they all be aged several years. Also, the wines were high in alcohol - all were over 15% and the Côtes á Côtes was over 16%. That said, these were exciting wines. They definitely made the trip down the long dusty road worth it. The tasting room staff were supportive and intelligent.
Experience: B / Wines: B

Caliza Winery ($10 tasting, wines $23-$48)
'10 "Kissin' Cousins" (Viognier/Rousanne/Grenache Blanc), '10 "Pink" Rosé (Syrah/Grenache/Mourvédre/Primotivo), Shellstone '09 Grenache, "Sympatico" (Tempranillo/Grenache), '09 Syrah
I can't figure out what the deal was with Caliza. I had heard really great things about the winery, but I really didn't dig it. The room was nicely decorated and had lots of tchotchkes for sale. The first wine, the "Kissin' Cousins" white blend was way too sweet and did not have redeeming characteristics. None of the other wines persuaded us to change our opinion. Wines were clunky, hot, and lacked appealing flavors. It was a bummer of a visit, and it made me nervous that Paso wineries weren't up to snuff.
Experience: C / Wines: D+

Brian Benson Cellars ($10 tasting, wines $25-$45)
NV "Kandy Red" Red Blend (Zin/Grenache/Mourvédre), '08 Zinfandel, '08 "S&M" (Syrah/Mourvédre), '08 Syrah - Glenrose Vineyard, '06 Syrah - Denner Vineyard
APV - 15.2-16.5%(06 Syrah)

Brian Benson is the son of the owner of Dark Star Cellars (which is right next door), and has been involved with the winemaking process since he was a teenager. Both he and his father are hot rod enthusiasts, and that aesthetic carries over to the decor of the tasting room and the style of the wines. The dude working the tasting room was a fun guy - a self-described cellar rat. He was passionate about wine, and entertaining to talk to. I can appreciate that the wines have a specific take - big, bold, high-octane reds. That's not really my bag, but most of the wines were enjoyable to drink, especially the Zin and the '08 Syrah. The '06 Syrah had a bonkers smell to it. I thought it smelled like sushi seaweed - according to the Cellar Rat there are all sorts of comparisons that the scent has been compared to: soy sauce, tuna, and according to one sommelier: "fecal spice" (but in a good way). Brings new meaning to calling wine "the shit..."
Experience: B / Wines: C+

Saturday (Westside / Far Out Wineries)

JUSTIN Vineyards & Winery ($15 tasting, wines $22.50-$62)
'09 Viognier, '09 Cabernet Sauvignon, '09 Reserve Tempranillo, '09 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, '09 "ISOSCELES" (Cab/Cab Franc/Merlot)

I went into Justin wanting to hate it. I think that the best wineries are the small wineries, and that corporate wineries do not make a quality product, nor do they offer a worthwhile and personable experience. Justin is a big-ass winery. They may have started from humble beginnings in the Paso area, but now they are big fish. No matter what my anti-big-winery stance is, Justin did me right. Since we were a big group we had a private tasting in the barrel room - which was cool to check out. Our hostess was extremely attentive and very knowledgeable. The next day we went back to pick up a bottle of their Zin. The regular tasting room staff was very nice as well. The tasting room had all sorts of t-shirts, books, snacks, etc. for sale. The wines were very good - and well-priced for the quality, especially in comparison to other Paso wineries. The Viognier was insanely good. It hit all the right sweet, fruity notes, but had a macho quality. And the Reserve Cab knocked my socks off - I literally had no socks after that wine. The Tempranillo was not enjoyable for me. Generally I don't like Temps, and this one didn't have any upside for me. I'd rather have gone to Justin and said that their wine sucked, and been able to continue my crusade against big-ass-wineries, but I know when I'm forced to admit defeat.
Experience: B+ / Wines: A-

Chateau Margene ($10 tasting, wines $34-$58)
'10 Grenache Blanc, '10 Pinot Noir, '09 Cabernet Sauvingon, '08 Petit Sirah, NV "Pistolero" (Zin/Sangiovese/Merlot/Petit Sirah/Syrah)

Our visit to Chateau Margene started off a bit funky. I had made reservations to have our group visit at a specific time on Saturday, which was confirmed by email. Though when we arrived the tasting room had no idea that we were coming, and seemed a bit sketchy about our presence, and apparently did not realize that we were coming, though quickly Christina set us up outside on the patio and took good care of us. It was a beautiful, sunny day, and we enjoyed the setting. Also we enjoyed the winery cat - Kit Kat - who was quite friendly until she decided to go grapenuts on our friend's hand. The wines poured were an eclectic mix - especially the last wine, the "Pistolero," which was basically leftover red wine, carefully blended together, and sold for $56 in a four liter box. None of the wines stood out as best of the day - but there were some interesting take-aways. No one in our group liked the Pinot. A handful in our group liked the Cab quite a bit, while others (including me), did not at all. Most folks liked the Petit Sirah pretty well. And a couple people (including me) thought that the "Pistolero" was pretty decent, while others strongly disliked it. Considering that all of the reds were +$50 and that none of the wines were above the pretty good level - Chateau Margene was not a weekend favorite.
Experience: B- / Wines: C

Calcareous Vineyard ($10 tasting, wines $28-38)
'09 Viognier, '08 Syrah, '08 "Tres Violet" (Syrah/Mourvédre/Grenache), '07 Meritage (Cab/Petit Verdot/Cab Franc/Merlot/Malbec), '08 York Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon, '07 Cabernet Franc

I put Calareous on our trip list because I had heard pretty good things about the wine, and very good things about the location. I'd refine that recommendation slightly. Calcareous has reliably good wine, good staff, and indeed a very good location. The picnic area is well laid out, and the panoramic view is fantastic. Inside the tasting room, we were very well taken care of - or perhaps I was very well taken care of, I think I monopolized the attention of the dude who poured for us. He was very informative and patient with answering my bevy of questions. The wines themselves varied from good to very good. Each were solidly built, stayed within the norms for what flavors one would expect, and lacked a little bit of subtlety. My least favorite wine was the Meritage (which I just learned is what US producers typically label a Bordeaux style blend), my most favorite was the Tres Violet. Calcareous is definitely worth the visit, and is more than just a good view.
Experience: B+ / Wines: B

Alta Colina Vineyard & Winery ($5 tasting, wines $24-$42)
'09 Grenache, '09 Mourvédre, '09 GSM (Syrah/Grenache/Mourvédre), '09 Toasted Hill Syrah, '10 Late Harvest Viognier
A visit like the one that we had a Alta Colina is exactly the type of thing that my burgeoning wine nerd heart desires. A tiny, unassuming winery, where you get to talk at length with the winemaker at length about their product - it can't be beat. Bob Tillman was a very gracious host. When he retired from a technical profession, he decided to purchase a small vineyard to make Rhone-style wines. Less than ten years later, he is cranking out an excellent roster of wines. Speaking with Bob, it was interesting to hear about the creation process and the thinking that go into making wine. One tidbit that he told us was that when he's getting near to bottling wine, it's easy to tell what the opening flavors of the wine will be, and what the end flavors will be, but it's making sure that the middle flavor profile is well built to connect those two ends. Bob certainly seemed at ease with the technical aspects to wine growing and making, but he also seemed to have a artistic sensibility. All of the wines were well constructed and enjoyable to drink. Each of the reds seemed to be built from the same template - so that there were flavor profile similarities between them - so the wines weren't as diverse as I'd like between varietals. I enjoyed the GSM and the Late Harvest Viognier most - really awesome.
Experience: A- / Wines: B+

Villicana Winery ($5 tasting, wines 18-$32)
'10 Viognier, '10 Estate Vin Rosé, '09 Estate Cabernet Sauvignon, '10 Zinfandel, '10 Estate Zinfandel
Yikes. Not sure what to do about this one. Villicana was highly suggested to me by my boss. Since my visit, he's been very interested in how I enjoyed it - and I have no idea how to respond. I really didn't enjoy it, but don't think that's going to fly. Our presence wasn't warmly received by tasting room staff, and they generally seemed stressed out by folks who were coming in. Compared to other wineries we visited that day, Villicana's wines did not impress. The Zin was pretty good, but was a high-octane 16.4% alcohol level (though the Estate Zin was at 17%!). Did not dig the other wines. At least they were more reasonably priced. I welcome any advice on how to break the news to my boss...
Experience: C- / Wines: D+

Sunday (Westside)

Tablas Creek Vineyard ($10 tasting, wines $20-$70)
'10 "Côtes de Tablas" Blanc (Viognier/Grenache Blanc/Marsanne/Roussanne), '09 Roussanne, '11 Rosé, '10 "Esprit de Beaucastel" Blanc (Roussanne/Grenache Blanc/Picpoul Blanc), '11 "Patelin de Tablas" Blanc (Grenache Blanc/Viognier/Roussanne/Marsanne), '10 "Antihesis" (Chardonnay), '10 "Côtes de Tables" (Grenache/Syrah/Mourvédre/Counoise), '09 "Esprit de Beautcastel" (Mourvédre/Syrah/Grenache/Counoise), '04 "Esprit de Beautcastel" (Mourvédre/Syrah/Grenache/Counoise)
Where some other wineries in Paso seem to be seeking their identity, and trying to figure out what story to tell about their wines, Tablas Creek is firmly identified and at rest with their narrative. Tablas Creek derives it's inspiration from Châteauneuf du Pape - the premier growing region of the Rhone. The winery seems to put an abundant amount of energy into making great wine, and integrate biodynamic and sustainable principles. Their tent-pole wines are rhone-style blends. All if the blends showed admirable characteristics: the white - Tablas Blanc, the budget red - Patelin, the general red - Côtes, and the fancy red - Esprit de Beaucastel (which kicked ass). Also, the 100% Roussanne was awesome. There were a few less enjoyable wines, the Chardonnay especially. Our tasting room attendant was a bit jittery, but she was very helpful and seemed excited to share the wine. Overall, Tablas Creek is a very solid winery - one of Paso's premier joints.
Experience: B / Wines: A-

Halter Ranch Vineyard ($10 tasting, wines $16-$44)
'11 "Côtes de Paso" Blanc (Grenache Blanc, Roussanne, Picpoul Blanc, Marsanne, Viognier), '09 "Ranch" White (Roussanne/Marsanne/Grenache Blanc/Sauvignon Blanc), '11 Rosé (Grenache/Syrah/Mourvédre/Picpoul), '09 "Côtes de Paso" (Grenache/Syrah/Mourvédre/Tannat/Counoise/Cinsault), '08 Cabernet Sauvignon, '07 Cabernet Sauvignon - Vineyard 41, '09 Zinfandel, '06 "El Pecado" Syrah Dessert Wine
I was interested in visiting Halter Ranch because they are featured as a SIP Certified winery. SIP stands for "Sustainability in Practice," which is a Central Coast based rating system that comprehensively evaluates a winery's sustainability practices. Halter Ranch really touts their efforts toward this program - which definitely floats my boat. The grounds are quite nice - very relaxing. The attendant was a very nice conversationalist and helpful. I really enjoyed Halter Ranch's wines. They all were showing good flavors and balance, and were well priced. The "Ranch White" and the Cab were the standouts. In comparison to the other big hits of the weekend (Justin, Alta Colina, and Tablas Creek) I did not feel that I was as moved by Halter Ranch, but that could have been because it was the end of a long weekend - I'll definitely swing by Halter Ranch next time we're around to give it a fresh look.
Experience: B+ / Wines: B+

Wine of the trip - Tablas Creek's Roussanne. I've rarely had Roussanne, and I've never really noticed it before. This bad-ass dude did me right though. Very refined flavors, light notes, but also managed to have some heft.

Paso is a beautiful place. The west side wineries are surprisingly distant from one another, which gives an opportunity to take in the sights - rolling hills, old oak canopies, olive and walnut orchards, of course vineyards - while traveling between them. It's a serene experience. I think that environment rubs off on the people that we met. Folks were mellow, though excited to share wine. They were helpful and fun. On the spectrum of wineries that we decided to go to, there was a large disparity. Either the winery was very good to awesome (Justin, Tablas Creek, Alta Colina, Halter Ranch, Alta Colina), or the winery was sub-par and often over-priced - with a few exceptions. That countered my expectation. Based on the input that I had gotten while prepping for the trip, I had expected a slew of solidly good wineries. I'm wondering if this hit or miss situation is because of the types of wines that are being produced. Many wineries that we checked out are producing Rhone blends. I'd hypothesize, those styles of wines take a high degree of difficulty to make well. If you do make them well - you're golden, if not you're making high-alcohol fruit bombs. Luckily while we were visiting we got a bunch of recommendations for other wineries to check out - so we'll be ready to take on more Paso next time we're up.

February '12 Santa Barbara County Trip - Hop, Skip, and Sip

Last month, we had a member pick-up party to attend in the evening at Ampelos, so we decided to head up early and check out a few newer tasting rooms in Los Olivos that we'd never been to before.

Tecero Wines ($10 tasting, wines $16-$30)

'10 Viognier - White Hawk Vineyard, '10 Grenache Blanc, '07 Watch Hill Grenache, '07 Thompson Vineyard Syrah, '07 Cuvee Christie (Syrah/Grenache/Mourvedre), '08 Cuvee Christie (S/G/M), '10 Mourvedre Rosé.
Although Tercero's tasting room in Los Olivos is new, they've been making wine for a while. A few years back, Tercero's owner - Larry Schaffer - was a winemaker at the region's mega-winery: Fess Parker. During that time he developed the wines for Tercero and struck out on his own. I'd been curious to try Tercero wines for the past year, so I was looking forward to visiting their new Los Olivos tasting room. The decor of the room is sleek, the tasting list is written on a large chalk wall. Perhaps she was having a bad day, but the tasting room attendant did not seem very interested in us or the other patrons. She definitely did not share much information about the wines. I liked the balance of each of the wines, never too much oak, heat, or fruit. But even though they were proficient, they seemed to lack edge. Even they didn't tasting manipulated, there was a safeness to the flavors. Perhaps this was because the whites were served at nearly room temp, and found out that some of the reds had been opened since the previous day. We liked the '07 Cuvée best, and found the Rosé to be the least likeable. All of the wines were reasonably priced in comparison to many other wineries in the area, which is a real plus.
Experience: C+ / Wine: B- 

Alta Maria Vineyards ($10 tasting, wines $22-$64)

'10 Sauvignon Blanc, '09 Chardonnay, '09 Pinot Noir, '06 Cabernet Sauvignon, Native9 '09 Pinot Noir - Rancho Ontiveros Vineyards, Native9 '08 Pinot Noir - Rancho Ontiveros Vineyards, Autonom '08 Red Cuvée (Syrah/Grenache/Mourvedre).
Alta Maria is another new kid on the block in Los Olivos. It actually houses three different labels: Alta Maria, Native9, and Autonom. There is a very slick aesthetic to the tasting room and the wine labels. The room is well laid out, with a long counter and large leather chairs in the middle for lounging. Both of the tasting room attendants, Jim and Stephanie, were very nice, and were excited to talk about the wines. We were a bit unlucky during our visit. Just as we arrived, a large group came in off a party bus, for a woman's 50th birthday party. Immediately they took over most of the room - and were loud as hell. But Jim hung in with us, and Stephanie poured us tastes of the Native9 and Autonom wines - which they would ordinarily charge extra for. I found that the Native9 Pinots had tons of flavor, the '08 had crazy earthy and funky flavors that were very unexpected but exciting. We really liked the Autonom Cuvée. Overall, each of the wines had lots of flavor, but still retained an authentic quality.
Experience: B / Wine: B+

The pick-up party at Ampelos was great as well. Peter and Rebecca Work really roll out the red carpet for members. The wine was flowing, lots of food to eat, and there was a festive atmosphere.

We weren't sure how well it would work to swoop up to the area from LA and come back the same night, but it went quite well. We were able to check out two new joints in the early afternoon, make pick-ups at the two wineries that we're members at, and get home at a reasonable time. I still prefer to make a weekend out of it, but it's nice to know it can be done in one day.

November '11 Gold Country Trip - Some Things to be Thankful For

Every Thanksgiving we head up to my in-laws who live in El Dorado County. It's always a relaxing trip, so I figured I could explore the area wineries during the down-time. Our plan for months prior was an all family drive out to Amador County on Friday, the Wednesday trip was a spur-of-the-moment drive that my brother-in-law and I did when nothing else was going on.

Wednesday (Apple Hill - El Dorado County)

Lava Cap Winery ($5 reserve tasting, wines $18-$30)
'09 Viognier Reserve, '09 "American River Red" Cuvée (Syrah/Merlot/Cab Franc/Zin), '07 Zinfandel Reserve, '07 "Rocky Draw" Zinfandel, '09 Syrah, '08 Petite Sirah.
A few years back we had our wedding near Placerville. Some friends from LA came up for the wedding and stayed at a Bed & Breakfast in Placerville. The owners of the B&B recommended that they check out Lava Cap. Our friends had a great time visiting the winery and recommended that we stop by sometime. Lava Cap has a great view off their deck and a warm/low-key tasting room. It was the day before Thanksgiving, so the tasting room was pretty busy. There were a total of fifteen wines to choose from, split between the regular list and the reserve list. I opted toward the reserve tasting but wasn't wowed by the wines. The flavors were all pretty basic. I enjoyed the Peitite Sirah most and the Zins were pretty good as well.
Experience: B- / Wine: C+

Boeger Winery (free tasting, wines $15-$19)
'09 "Boejerlais", '07 Cabernet Franc, '09 Barbera, '07 Zinfandel, '08 Zinfandel - Walker Ranch Vineyard, '08 Petite Sirah.
Like Lava Cap, Boeger is in the Apple Hill area near Placerville. Apple Hill is a popular tourist area in the fall, so the tasting room here was busy as well. Boeger's pretty well set up to handle large crowds - they have a very long counter and plenty of open space. The staff were efficient and helpful. The regular tasting list had eleven wines on it, we were able to choose six. I was excited to try the "Boejerlais" - their version of a Beaujolais - it was light and refreshing. Overall the wines were pretty good, a little more complex than the wines at Lava Cap. The Cab Franc and the Zins were slightly too hot. Dug the Petite Sirah.
Experience: B / Wine: B-

Cielo Estate (free tasting)
'09 Vermentino, NV Quatre Vignes (Syrah/Grenache/Counoise/Mourvedre), '06 Carignane, '09 Magnifique (Merlot/Cab Franc/Cab), '08 Zinfandel Reserve - Herbert Vineyard, '09 Petite Sirah Reserve - Herbert Vineyard.
Cielo is a brand new winery. They just took over the old Sogno vineyard during the spring. It's an easy drive to Cielo from my in-laws, so I was hopeful that the winery would be decent. The have a very airy tasting room, and have a number of trinkets for sale. We were the only visitors and the time, and Nicole was a very engaging and fun host. There were sixteen wines to chose five tastings from. Since the winery is so new, none of the grapes used in the wines are from the estate yet. They are sourcing from a number of locations around the state currently. I appreciated the fact that the made wines that were different from the normal varieties of Gold Country wines. Overall the wines were good, especially the red blends - and the prices were very reasonable.
Experience: B- / Wine: C+

Friday (Shenandoah Valley - Amador County)

Story Winery (free tasting, wines $14-$26)
'10 "Miss Rose", '09 Chenin Blanc, '08 "Quartz" Zinfandel, '07 "Picnic Hill" Zinfandel, '08 "Hilltop" Zinfandel, NV Almond Sparkling Wine.
It's definitely a red flag when a winery has both White Zin and Almond Champagne on their tasting list. Putting that aside, Story is a cool little winery. They have a nice deck on the hillside and an intimate tasting room. The staff were extremely helpful. I did not think highly of any of the wines. Most of the wines were clunky and simple. I did appreciate that they were using mission grapes to blend in a few of the wines as a nod to the history of California and the region - though those blends did not taste great. The zins were okay, the "Quartz" was the best of the lot.
Experience: B / Wine: C-

Cooper Vineyards (free tasting, wines $17-$32)
'10 Pinot Grigio, '10 Viognier, '10 Roussanne, '09 Barbera, '09 Barbera Riserva, '08 Alicante Bouschet, '08 Zinfandel, '08 Petite Sirah, '07 Syrah, '07 "Dicembre" (late harvest Alicante Bouchet), '10 "Pink" (Sauv Blanc/Pinot Grigio/Viognier).
Cooper was my favorite winery on this visit. They have an airy and well spaced out tasting room. They had piles of walnuts out for folks to take home that had been harvested that morning from the Cooper orchard. The white wines were not great. The Barberas were pretty good. We enjoyed the Alicante and the Zin quite a bit. I'd never heard of the Alicante grape before, so it was neat to try. The late harvest Alicante was good as well. The staff were all really friendly and excited to share what they knew about wine. I definitely got the feeling that Cooper is a winery that puts a lot of energy into making good quality wine and sharing it with people as though they are friends and family.
Experience: B+ / Wine: B+

Terra d'Oro Winery (free tasting, wines $10-$30)
Montevina '10 Sauvignon Blanc, '08 Barbera, '08 Sangiovese, '06 Forté (Sangiovese/Cab), '08 Aglianico, '09 Aglianico, '09 Teroldego, '08 Zinfandel, '07 SHR Zinfandel, '07 Deaver Old Vine Zinfandel, NV Zinfandel Port.
So far, Terra d'Oro is the most corporate winery I've experienced in the Gold Country area. They have a huge winemaking complex out front, and then a large warehouse-y tasting room in the back. The place lacks any true personality, everything is very superficial. They are more than gracious with their wines at the tasting. Both the Terra d'Oro wines, and the Montevina wines (their budget label) have long tasting lists that you are free to try anything on the lists. Most of the wine was decent, but not above that. The Anglianico was the most enjoyable to drink.
Experience: C- / Wine: C-

Helwig Vineyards & Winery (free tasting, wines $15-$35)
'10 Sauvignon Blanc, '10 Viognier, '10 Syrah Rosé, '09 "Round Up Red" (Syrah/Zin/Primotivo), '09 "East Block" Zinfandel, '09 "Sea of Grapes" Zinfandel, '09 Petite Sirah.
Helwig is a brand new winery. The ownership has had a vineyard in the area for a while, but only recently decided to purchase these grounds and build a full winery. The grounds of the winery are stunning. The buildings sit on top of a knoll, and have panoramic views of the Shenandoah Valley. The buildings and cave are smartly designed and have a subtle modern feel. The staff person we had was nice. The red wines were good, especially the "Round Up" and the "East Block."
Experience: B / Wine: B

Driving around in the foothills and popping into wineries for tastings is a great way to spend time with family. The scenery, especially in the fall is idyllic. For the most part the El Dorado and Amador County wineries are very personable. The wineries were well attended during the holiday week, and it was fun to chat with other visitors about which wineries to check out. We weren't knocked off our feet by the wines that we tried this time around, wines were a bit too clunky, or too hot - but it's still a wonderful experience. There are many more wineries to explore in the area, and we look forward to trying a lot more out during future holiday trips.

November '11 Santa Barbara County Trip - In Which We Meet a Legend

Since we had a free weekend, we decided to head up to the Santa Barbara wine country to visit a few wineries we hadn't been to before. As it worked out, the general theme of the trip was keystone winemakers. Ken Brown is the owner and winemaker Ken Brown Wines. Rick Longoria is the owner and winemaker at Longoria. Sashi Moorman is a partner/creator/winemaker at  Piedrasassi, one of the winemakers at Evening Land, and the winemaker at Stolpman. We planned to spend most of our trip at the Wine Ghetto - which now my favorite wine destination. It was an especially cool time of the year to visit, the Ghetto was a hive of activity. Wineries were receiving their grapes from the fields and were in the beginning stages of creating wine.


Saturday (Buellton, Highway 246, Lompoc)
Road Music: Florence and The Machine - Lungs

Ken Brown Wines ($10 private tasting, wines $35-$50)
'08 Nielson Vineyard Chardonnay, '08 Santa Maria Valley Pinot Noir, '08 Sta. Rita Hills Pinot Noir, '09 Clos Pepe Vineyard Pinot Noir, '08 "A" Cuvee Syrah.
Ken Brown has had an immense influence on the growth of the wine industry in Santa Barbara County. He began making wine in the area 35 years ago and was the head winemaker at Zaca Mesa and Byron before creating his own wine label. Tastings are by appointment only. We had an excellent time. Ken makes tremendous wine and is a wealth of knowledge. He shared wine growing techniques with us like we were old friends, and it was interesting to hear about the growth of the wine industry in the region during his career. Anyone who is at all interested in the essence of wine and seeing the passion that goes into making great quality wine should visit Ken Brown.
Experience: A+ / Wine: A

Piedrasassi / New Vineland Winery ($10 tasting, wines $26-$56)
New Vineland '09 Santa Barbara County Chardonnay, Piedrasassi '08 Central Coast White Wine, New Vineland '08 Santa Barbara County Syrah, Piedrasassi '08 Central Coast Syrah, Piedrasassi '08 Rim Rock Vineyard Syrah, Piedrasassi '06 Santa Ynez Valley Sangiovese Dessert Wine.
Piedrasassi is a super hip and funky place. Everything about their tasting room exudes style. The winery is pretty new and they have a very small distribution. Each wine was exciting to drink and were of high quality. The tasting was accompanied by their Syrah jelly on cheese and red wine vinegar and olive oil on heirloom tomatoes. We felt cooler and smarter for having visited.
Experience: B+ / Wine: B+

Evening Land Vineyards ($10 tasting, wines $25-$60)
'10 Chardonnay, '10 Etoile Pouilly-Fuisse Chardonnay - Burgundy, '09 Oregon Pinot Noir - Eola-Amity Hills, '09 Sonoma Pinot Noir - Occidental Vineyard, '09 Sta. Rita Hills Pinot Noir, '09 Sta. Rita Hills - The Tempest Vineyard.
Evening Land is moving their tasting room into a different space in the Wine Ghetto soon, so their current tasting room is no frills. The goal of Evening Land is exhibit how a specific place has an effect on wines. Evening Land makes wines from four distinct places: Burgundy France, Oregon, Sonoma, and Santa Barbara County. These distinctions are made through Chardonnay and Pinot Noir wines. All of the wines had good flavors, but were slightly short on length and complexity. We had a very nice conversation with the staff person there - she was very helpful.
Experience: B / Wine: B

Stolpman Vineyards - Lompoc Tasting Room ($10 tasting, wines $19-$68)
'10 Sauvignon Blanc, '09 'L'Avion' Roussanne, '10 'La Cuadrilla' (Syrah/Grenache/Petit Sirah/Viognier), '08 Estate Sangiovese, '09 "Originals" Syrah, '09 'Hilltops' Syrah, '09 'La Coppa' Sangiovese, '09 La Croce (Syrah/Sangiovese), '08 'Angeli' Sangiovese.
On the day of our trip, we learned that Stolpman had just opened their new tasting room in the Wine Ghetto. We'd visited Stolpman's Los Olivos tasting room back in April and were huge fans of their wines. The current setup of this tasting room overlooks the warehouse floor - and given that harvest is just completing we were able to watch the Stolpman team make new wine while we tasting their current wines. The tasting list had a number of Sangiovese's. The entry-level priced Sangio was very good, and the "La Croce" and "Angeli" were fantastic. Alicia was a great host.
Experience: B+ / Wine: A-

Sunday (Lompoc)
Road Music: Black Joe Lewis & The Honeybears - Scandalous

Longoria Winery - Lompoc Tasting Room ($10 tasting, wines $22-$48)
'10 Albariño - Clover Creek Vineyard, '08 Pinot Noir - Fe Ciega Vineyard, '09 Pinot Noir - Rancho Santa Vineyard, '09 Pinot Noir - Bien Nacido Vineyard, '04 Syrah - Alisos Vineyard.
Longoria also has two tasting rooms - one in Los Olivos and one in Lompoc. The Lompoc tasting room is attached to their winemaking facility. Christopher was kind enough to tour us around the warehouse and pointed out the different processes that were going on. We had a great time chatting with Christopher about a variety of topics and we enjoyed the wines that were on the tasting list. The three Pinots had unique differences - we enjoyed the Fe Ciega and Bien Nacido quite a bit. The Syrah was awesome as well.
Experience: A- / Wines: B+

After visiting a few other wine regions recently it was really nice to come back to SBC. There is such a true passion there that it's impossible to not get excited about wine. This was especially true when we visited with Ken Brown. He is one of the most influential people to the wine industry in the region - and he's willing to spend an hour just chatting with us and share with us his great knowledge. There's no ulterior motive there - he's a dude who's committed his life to wine and will share his love of wine purely. Experiences like that are truly unique, and I'm glad we were a part of it.

September '11 El Dorado County Trip - Exploring the In-Laws Backyard

A few times each year we head up to El Dorado County to spend time with my wife's family. During our recent visit over Labor Day weekend, we decided to check out a few of the local wineries. Gold Country is considered a minor wine region, so I wasn't expecting Sonoma/Napa quality - but I was curious what the wine tasting experience would be like.

Saturday (Gold Hill)


David Girard Vineyard (free tasting)
'09 Coda Blanc (Roussanne, Marsanne, Grenache Blanc, Rolle, Viognier), '09 Rousanne, '09 Viognier-Roussanne, '08 Rosé (Grenache/Mourvedre), '09 Grenache, '09 Triptych (Syrah, Grenache, Counoise), '08 Riv d'Or (Cab/Merlot).
There is a very welcoming atmosphere at David Girard. There's a nice outside patio for the guests, a playground for kids, even a dog walk. It being Labor Day weekend, the tasting room was very busy - and the staff was a bit flustered by that, even with that they were very nice. I was not stoked at all about the wine. Everything felt out of balance. Wine was either oaky, artificial, too fruity, or flat.
Experience: B- / Wines: D

Sunday (Pleasant Valley)

Narrow Gate Vineyards ($3 reserve tasting, wines $18-$34)
'09 Chardonnay, '09 Reserve Chardonnay, '09 Viognier-Roussanne, '08 Grenache, '08 Syrah, '09 Primotivo, '08 Petit Sirah-Syrah, '08 Syrah-Viognier, '07 Dunamis (Grenache/Syrah), '07 Cabernet Sauvignon.
After our visit at David Girard, I was getting a bit worried that El Dorado County wine was not good. Narrow Gate put that fear to rest. I wouldn't say that their wine was excellent, but it was pretty good - especially the whites and the 'Dunamis.' The owners - Frank and Teena Hildebrand were working in the tasting room, and were more than excited to share their certified-biodynamic wines.  It was a warm and friendly place. Every person that came was welcomed as if they were family.
Experience: B+ / Wines: B-

Holly's Hill Vineyards ($5 reserve tasting, wines $18-$25)
'09 Patriarche Blanc (Roussanne/Grenache Blanc/Viognier), '09 Roussanne, '10 Viognier, '10 Grenache Rosé, '10 Grenache, '09 Patriarche (Mourvedre/Syrah/Grenache/Counoise), '09 Petit Patriache (Grenache/Counoise), '09 Mourvedre, '09 Mourvedre Classique, '07 Hill Top Syrah, '08 Wylie-Fenaughty Syrah, '08 East Slope Syrah, '08 Cabernet-Syrah, '08 Petite Sirah, '09 Late Harvest Roussanne.
Yeah that's right, fifteen wines on the tasting list - eleven on the 'no charge' list. It was a crazy amount of wine - and the pours seemed to be considerably more than and normal tasting. But I'm pretty sure that my judgement wasn't clouded - Holly's Hill is a darn good winery. It's a beautiful space overlooking the foothills with picnic tables and a nice deck. They had perhaps the friendliest winery dog I've ever met. The wines were all at least pretty good and some were very good. Most had slight imbalance issues, but were overall enjoyable to drink, and were all reasonably priced. Holly's Hill is what I was hoping for in an El Dorado County winery: solid, unassuming, fun, and original.
Experience: A- / Wines: B+

Joining us for our winery visits was my father-in-law. He's aware of our wine infatuation but has been resolute that he's strictly a beer and whiskey man. We persuaded him to come out with us to the tastings, just to give it a shot. I was nervous that if the wineries were snobby, or if the wines were bad, he would have been unwilling to join us for future wine trips. Thankfully we found some solid and down-to-earth wineries in El Dorado County, and will likely have my father-in-law joining us in the future.

August '11 Napa Trip - Tours, Disappointment, and Kick-Assery

After spending two days enjoying the hell out of Sonoma, we jumped over to Napa. I knew that Napa was likely to be more expensive, more snotty, and probably less fun. But it is the mecca of domestic wine, so I had to go. We based our list off of accumulated recommendations from friends. 


Monday (Rutherford)
Road Music: Notorious B.I.G. - Ready to Die 


Frog's Leap ($20 tour, wines $18-$75)
'10 Sauvignon Blanc, '09 Chardonnay, '08 Merlot, '07 'Rutherford' Cabernet Sauvignon, '08 Petite Sirah, '08 Zinfandel.
Visiting Frog's Leap is like visiting a friend's large vacation rental. It is a welcoming and peaceful environment. The tour started in the vineyard, stopped off in the orchard, the crush pad, the barrel warehouse, and ended in the processing barn. Sean was a tremendous guide and host. At each stop we were poured a different glass of wine. All of the wine was very good. The Rutherford Cab was incredible. After the tour was over we were encouraged to relax anywhere on the grounds or even continue to explore. Frog's Leap is known for being non-traditional and quirky, as well they are extremely friendly and open - which in my limited experience in Napa strays from the norm. An additional plus - Frog's Leap works hard at utilizing environmental sustainable techniques such as dry-irrigation.
Experience: A+ / Wines: A-  


Cakebread Cellars ($15 tour, wines $24-$61)
'10 Sauvignon Blanc, '08 Chardonnay, '08 Chardonnay Reserve, '09 Zinfandel, '06 Cabernet Sauvignon, '08 Syrah.
Several of my friends are big fans of Cakebread wines, so I made sure to put it on the must visit list. We were confused about what we had signed up for when we arrived. The woman at the main desk checked our reservation, then poured us our first glass of wine. She then simply directed us to sit outside on benches in the parking lot, among the cars and heavy equipment. For about ten minutes I thought this was going to be where we were going to have our tasting. Eventually our tour guide gathered us up, and began our tour. The tour started in the gardens, made a few stops in the vineyard, and then back into the garden. Our tour guide was nice enough, but seemed to be speaking from a well-rehearsed monologue, and the content of the tour was pretty superficial. The wines were pretty darn good, but the overall experience at the winery left a lot to be desired. 
Experience: C- / Wines: B+


Rutherford Hill Winery ($25 tour)
'06 Merlot, '07 Cabernet Franc, '06 Cabernet Sauvignon, '07 Malbec, Luke Donald '06 Claret, '06 'Devil's Peak', '04 Zinfandel Port.
Going on a third tour in one day was a bad choice. Not only was taking another tour on a hot day a bad choice, the tour itself was bad. The tour guide was a crotchety guy who would only take questions at very specific instances. He seemed to be speaking from a script and was passionless about the delivery of that script. The tour started outside at the hilly overlook, headed into the large caves where the barrels are stored (which was our main interest in the tour), and then into the production area. The caves are a pretty awesome thing to see, but the guide managed to make them underwhelming with his soulless tour. The wines that we tried were all okay, but nothing at all impressive. Rutherford Hill does have a nice view of Napa Valley from the eastern slope, so if you decide to go there, make sure to bring a picnic. 
Experience: D / Wines: C+


Tuesday (Calistoga, St. Helena, Rutherford)
Road Music: Massive Balloon - Massive Balloon


Clos Pegase ($20 tasting?, wines $28.50-$48)
'07 'Hommage' Chardonnay, '08 Pinot Noir, '07 Cabernet Franc, '07 Syrah, '07 Cabernet Sauvignon.
We went to Clos Pegase due to their reputation for having awesome art and architecture. We had also heard good things about their wine. On both fronts we were pleased. We arrived slightly before the winery opened, so we checked out the outdoor sculptures while we waited. The buildings seem slightly run down - paint was chipping, and the place felt a bit dour - though since we were the first there it was quite empty, which could have added to the starkness. Maybe once more people arrive that feeling may change. We were attended to by Harry, who was extremely intelligent and happy to share information. I dug the wines. The Chardonnay was excellent, and the Cab Franc and the Cab Sauv were really enjoyable. 
Experience: B+ / Wines: B+


Long Meadow Ranch Winery ($20 Signature Flight tasting, wines $19-$85)
'10 Sauvignon Blanc, '04 Cabernet Sauvignon, '06 Cabernet Sauvignon, '06 E.J. Church Cabernet Sauvignon, '08 Ranch House Red.
A good friend directed us to Long Meadow Ranch. The tasting room has a stylish modern western vibe to it. They also raise beef and produce, so there is a focus on the intersection of food and wine. It was quiet in the tasting room, and the staff were nice though distant. It was a bit of a sterile place - there was nothing special about the experience. The Cabs and the Ranch House Red were very tasty. 
Experience: B- / Wines: B+


St. Supéry Vineyards & Winery ($15 tasting)
'09 Dollarhide Sauvignon Blanc, '06 Estate Edu (Cab Blend), '06 Estate Rutherford Cabernet Sauvignon, '06 Estate Dollarhide Cabernet Sauvignon, '06 Merlot, '06 Petit Verdot, '06 Malbec.
This is a behemoth of a complex. The space has a very corporate feel. Inside is not much different. The tasting room is quite large, though since it was an off-day, there were only a few other visitors there. Quickly the corporate feeling eroded, as our pourer - Joe - began to chat with us. He was a fun guy, and had lots to talk with us about. He definitely put me at ease. Toward the end of our tasting Joe encouraged us to go upstairs to check out the art and exhibits. The wine-themed exhibits were not that great, but there was an awesome Wayne Thiebaud exhibit up there. We enjoyed the wine quite a bit. Each one had refined characteristics but expressed individuality. 
Experience: B+ / Wines: B+


Heading into Napa I was warned that the region was largely snotty and corporate. In general that seemed to be true. Napa is one of the most important wine growing regions in the world - so of course big money is going to being prevalent. But in instances the wine tasting experience is well delivered so the corporatism doesn't mar the experience. Frog's Leap seems to completely side-step (or hop) the issue by having a different model. Clos Pegase and St. Supéry are very corporate, but they hire smart tasting room folks and serve great wine, so it works out. My experiences at Cakebread and Rutherford Hill were negatively affected by the corporate atmosphere though. The number of wineries in Napa is huge, so I'm sure that there are lots more hyper-corporate places, corporate-but-good paces, and completely original places for me to visit in the future. 

August '11 Sonoma Trip - Full Blown Awesomeness

When a good friend moved back to California, we decided to head up to Sonoma and Napa to celebrate. We built a strong list of wineries to visit and met up with old friends during the trip. We visited Sonoma for two days, and Napa for another two. I split the trip into two blogs. One for Sonoma and one for Napa. It was an awesome trip. We had an amazing time and drank superb wine.


Friday (Central Valley)
Road Music: Sparklehorse - Good Morning Spider


CRU Wine Company ($10 tasting, wines $20-$35)
Carmichael '10 'Blanco Fresco' Albariño, '09 'Vineyard Montage' Chardonnay, '09 Chardonnay - Sierra Madre Vineyard, '08 'Vineyard Montage' Pinot Noir, '08 'Appellation Series' Pinot Noir - Sierra Madre Vineyard, Carmichael '08 "Rojo del Rey' Tempranillo, Carmichael '07 'Satisfaction' Cabernet Sauvignon.
In the Central Valley on Highway 99, we saw a billboard for CRU. Considering we were on our way up to Sonoma for a wine trip, we thought it would be appropriate to give this place a try. Nothing gained, nothing lost. CRU's Madera location is a mid-way point for their two wine growing areas - to the west the Central Coast, which is where their CRU labeled wines come from - and to the east the Sierra Foothills for their lower priced Yosemite Views wines. The people were nice in the tasting room. We were given a long and varied tasting, but the wine was inoffensive at best. The Albariño had the best flavor. I've had ton wines that taste better for a fraction of their prices. We "checked in" on Yelp so that we didn't have to pay the tasting fee - if you can do the same, why not stop here if you have free time and are are curious? Otherwise, keep driving.
Experience: C / Wine: D

Saturday (Dry Creek)


B.R. Cohn Winery ($10 tasting?, wines $24-$100)
'09 Chardonnay - Sonoma County, '09 Reserve Chardonnay, '09 Pinot Noir - Russian River Valley, '08 Zinfandel - Sonoma Valley, '08 Zinfandel - Olive Hill Estate, '07 Cabernet Sauvignon - Olive Hill Estate, '07 Special Selection Cabernet Sauvignon - Olive Hill Estate.
Fun fact: the owner of B.R. Cohn - Bruce Cohn is the manager of the Doobie Brothers. We were given a choice of four tastings from a long list. I wasn't wild about the wine that I tried. Most of the wine came off a bit simple, good flavors but not balanced. The exceptions were the Pinot and the Cab. The grounds and building were attractive with a cool funky vibe. 
Experience: B- / Wines: C+


Imagery Estate Winery (Member's tasting, $29-$42)
'09 White Burgundy, '09 Sangiovese, '08 Petit Sirah, '08 Langrien, '08 Cabernet Franc - Dry Creek, '10 Cabernet Franc (barrel tasting), '07 Barbera.
Imagery is a unique place to visit. Great art, nice architecture, extremely friendly staff - especially Pat in the member's room. Imagery's wines fell somewhere between good to pretty good for me. The White Burgundy was my favorite. 
Experience: A- / Wines: B-


Benzinger Family Winery (Member's reserve tasting, wines $24-$80)
'10 'Signaterra' Sauvignon Blanc - Shone Farm, '09 'Signaterra' Chardonnay - Carneros, '09 'De Coelo' Pinot Noir - Terra Neuma, '06 'Oonapais' Bordeaux - Sonoma Mountain, '07 'Three Blocks' Bordeaux Blend - Sonoma Valley, '07 'Obsidian Point' Estate Blend - Sonoma Mountain, '07 'Tribute' Bordeaux Blend - Sonoma Mountain, '08 Tribute' Bordeaux Blend, '10 Muscat Canelli - Lake County.
A hilly, meandering complex with lush garden trails and tram tours dashing about. The tasting room was packed, and there was a chaotic atmosphere. Thankfully our friends were members so we had access to a member's counter. Our attendant - Alyssa - was fun and knowledgeable. Five of the wines that we tasted were excellent - Sauv, Pinot, Obsidian Point, and both Tributes. Also much respect to Benzinger for having wines that are organic/biodynamic.
Experience: B / Wines: A-


Ledson Winery & Vineyards (Member's private tasting, wines $26-$86)
'09 Russian River Sauvignon Blanc, '08 Carneros Chardonnay, '09 Russian River Pinot Noir, '07 Mes Trois Amours (Syrah/Grenache/Mourvedre), '07 Sonoma Valley 'Ancient Vine' Zinfandel, '07 Sonoma Valley Estate Merlot, '07 Sonoma County Cepage (Cab/Cab Franc/Petit Verdot/Merlot), '07 Sonoma Valley Syrah, '08 Knights Valley Sangiovese, '07 Knights Valley Bellisimo (Cab/Merlot), '06 Knights Valley Cabernet Sauvignon, '06 Knights Valley Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve.
Our Ledson experience was sheer opulence. The grounds of the winery are incredible. The castle is hulking and ornate at the same time. Our friends coordinated a private balcony tasting that overlooked the garden. The staff person that took care of us - Guy - was awesome. Well versed in the wine, down to earth and hilarious. All of the wines had solid and classy characteristics. The Bellisimo and the Cab Reserve were fantastic.
Experience: A- / Wines: A-


Sunday (Russian River Valley)
Road Music: Spoon - Gimme Fiction


Ridge Vineyard - Lytton Springs ($10 tasting, wines $32-$40)
'09 Jimsomare Chardonnay, '07 Lytton Springs 'Z-List', '08 Geyserville 'Z-List', '08 Estate Cabernet Sauvignon.
You certainly cannot hate tasting wine on a patio overlooking an expansive vineyard on a calm Sunday morning. Ridge has a great setup. Comfy couches and chairs that allows you to relax, enjoy good company and to take in the day. Ridge is one of the original Zin makers in Sonoma - so I had high hopes. All of the wines fell slightly below my expectations. The Lytton Springs Zin was very meek, the Geyserville was a bit more peppy. One our way out we struck up a conversation with a staff person - Alice - who was really nice and helpful. 
Experience: B / Wines: B-


Unti Vineyards (no tasting fee, wines $16-$35)
'10 Rosé - Sonoma County, '10 Cuvee Blanc - Estate, '08 Grenache -Estate, '08 Zinfandel - Estate, '07 Syrah - Estate, '07 Syrah Benchland - Estate, '08 Montepulciano - Estate, '09 'Green House' Zinfandel.
We had absolutely no intention of visiting Unti. As we drove by, my friend pulled into the parking lot, thinking that Unti was another winery that she really wanted to check out. Even though she realized she was mistaken we decided to go in anyway. We did not call ahead for an appointment, but they agreed to see us just the same. Thank god for serendipity. All of the wines were superb. Great, complex flavors that were very approachable and extremely well-priced. Kristen was an awesome staff person - very clear and friendly. The space was awesomely low key. Unti was our favorite of the whole trip.
Experience: A / Wines: A


Truett Hurst (complementary tasting, wines $20-$33)
'10 Swallowtail Chardonnay, '09 Rattler Rock Zinfandel, '09 Red Rooster Zinfandel, '08 Burning Man Petite Sirah, '09 Red Field Blend (Syrah/Zin/Primotivo), NV Dessert Wine.
Truett Hurst is a very customer friendly place. The whole vibe is welcoming and mellow. We were given some barbeque, there was live music, a beautiful garden, and without a doubt  the best picnic spot at a winery that I've ever seen. Adirondack chairs facing a slow moving creek, canopied by oaks. An awesome spot to enjoy the afternoon. Amy was our pourer - she was extremely friendly and fun. The wines weren't all that great. Booming, big flavor but not enough complexity and lots of heat. 
Experience: A- / Wine: C+


Papapietro Perry Winery ($10 tasting, wines $28-$54)
'08 Pinot Noir - Sonoma Coast, '08 Pinot Noir - Charles Vineyard/Anderson Valley, '08 Pinot Noir - Peters Vineyard/Russian River Valley, '08 Pinot Noir - Leras Family Vineyards/Russian River Valley, '08 Pinot Noir - Elsbree Vineyard/Russian River Valley, '08 Zinfandel - Elsbree Vineyard/Russian River Valley.
We did not feel a connection with this place. The wine was okay, but were priced too high. None of the wine was very well structured. There were good flavors, but often they all felt clumped together. The staff person that waited on us was not knowledgeable. Another negative to this place was the super-schlocky t-shirts that they were selling.
Experience: C- / Wines: C


Michel-Schlumberger Wines ($10 tasting, wines $24-$50)
'10 La Bise Pinot Blanc, '07 Le Sage Merlot, '07 'Humanitas' Malbec, '91 Cabernet Sauvignon, '08 La Source Syrah, '07 'Humanitas' Pinot Noir, '08 Cabernet Franc.
I had read really good things about Michel-Schlumberger from the website Wine for Normal People. A serene setting removed from the main drag - perfect for an afternoon visit. We sat on a mission-style patio next to a fountain. Debbie was an excellent host. The wine was very good. The Syrah and the Pinot Noir were my favorites.
Experience: A- / Wines: B+


J Vineyards ($20 tasting, wines $20-$60)
'10 Pinot Gris, '09 'Barrel 16' Chardonnay, '08 'Barrel 16' Pinot Noir, '09 Pinot Noir - Robert Thomas Vineyard Block 2, NV Brut Rosé, '02 Vintage Brut.
We've had J before and really enjoyed it - and they have a good reputation. Maybe we came at a bad time or on an off-day, but our experience was really disappointing. None of the wines stood out compared to others that we'd had that day. Even the upper-echelon wines had negative qualities. Finally, the staff there were unfriendly. They did not seem to enjoy their jobs at all. Hopefully that was all an aberration. 
Experience: D+ / Wines: C+


Sonoma is such a vibrant yet mellow place. So much great wine and food. It's a wonderful place to explore - especially with friends. I'm not sure that its a trip that we could ever replicate - but I'm going to try.